FactionOne

Hi all, hope you're all well.

I was just wondering if anyone on here could give me a couple more pointers on my road to A3 audio-heaven...

The first thing is an interesting situation as regards head unit power. I've noticed that my new DAB-54 is always powering-on with the time displayed as whatever time I last turned it off after setting, indicating there's something not quite right in the temp/perm live supply department. Also, I've noticed an interesting sequence of events in initially powering-up the new head unit... If I jump in, and pop in my key, then press and hold the power button on the head unit, nothing happens, if I turn the ignition on, then return the key to the fully-off position, I can press-and-hold on the head unit to power on. I'm guessing this is in some way related to the power thing I suspect is causing the clock issue - and also that the Concert head unit didn't have the same problem as its 'push-button' power-on is a "hard" switch, likely somewhere very early in the circuit, rather than software-relayed switch as on the new Blaupunkt DAB-54 head unit.

Any ideas anyone has reagarding that one would be really helpful. I'm just using the connectors as they came out of the back of the Concert Radio/Cassette with no adapters.

The no adapters thing raises my second question... I put in the bottom block for power etc, the middle block for speakers, and the top block for the changer cable/line out to Audi amp/rear/sub and I'm left with two remaining blocks.

Could anyone shed any light on what these chaps do?

<img src="http://homepages.gotadsl.co.uk/~boltonr/a3/stereo/one_cable_on_its_own.jpg">
<img src="http://homepages.gotadsl.co.uk/~boltonr/a3/stereo/then_it_got_a_friend.jpg">

Cheers,

Rob.

GA4 S-line

I had a similar problem with my Apline, it turned out that the perminant and ignition power cables were the wrong way round. (I think they were the red and yellow ones), I swapped them around and all works fine now.

MacSub

The other is just a ground to the chassis of the head unit

FactionOne

Hey MacSub

Thanks for that, as it is I'd sat and examined a few different circuit diagrams I found and compared the old and new head units and figured out pretty much what's going on.

I got a male to female harness with a permanent live split to its original destination and another one of the pins, and it's sorted my power headache. I ditched the big red block because the relevant lights on my head unit seem to work as expected now it's got proper power.

I'm thinking I'm going to bust an iron out and splice some more cables in to that harness though, because it's not complete, and I'd like to have GALA speed dependant volume working. Do I need to add a wire to the pin I'm expecting? (I can't remember off the top of my head how it looked, but pin 1 or pin 2?)

Anyway, once again, thanks for your assistance.

I'm starting to get some piccies of my install online btw, <a href="http://www.robvanguard.co.uk/a3/install/">http://www.robvanguard.co.uk/a3/install/</a>

Cheers,

Rob.

PS. Are you the guru who made the JL Audio hybrid stealth-sub?

FactionOne

Hi gavins3,

Thanks for your reply. I got a half-harness before I'd seen it though, and from what I can work out it does something pretty similar. Anyway, it all seems to work, I just need to splice the odd extra cable into it here and there.

I did eventually decide to do a full re-wire job on my speakers (even though the doors/panels will run off the head unit) - in for a penny, in for a pound!

Some quick photos of how it's all starting to take shape are <a href="http://www.robvanguard.co.uk/a3/install">*here*</a>

Thanks again for your help,

Rob.