Slow Sport Sedan

My friend has an evo and he put a boost controller with his tune to help the boost taper. He said he's not sure if i can do it with my car without it running lean or pinging. i planned on buying a boost gauge seeing what my peak boost is and setting it to that with a non-bleeding boost controller.. does that sound like a good idea? thanks

thanks!

bhvrdr

no

April

Search other AW forums. Boost controller = bad idea.

Timmay

ride most likely would not work well with this car.

Kareem of Elise

The electronic boost controllers some people use don't seem to work out very well, but there are a huge number of us on the TT forum with the 1.8T using the two-valve manual controller from the Modshack (TTSchwing). We've been running them for years, and used smartly, it pretty much eliminates turbo lag and also gives the ability to tune your boost....that said, you can still have people doing stupid things with it, like cranking up the boost too far and just making a lot of heat rather than power, but if you read his directions and use it as recommended, it can be used reliably.

Now, having said that, that is on the 1.8T......I don't know or think that it has been tested on the 2.0T. I haven't studied the 2.0T and am not nearly as familiar with it as I am the 1.8T. I wouldn't just go trying to stick one on there.

I guess what I'm trying to say, is that there are a lot of shoddy boost controllers and stupid people out there using them, but not all boost controllers are bad if used properly.<ul><li><a href="http://www.modshack.info/bm.htm">linky</a></li></ul>

Slow Sport Sedan

we plan on setting the boost at the peak, no more than the apr software has already set. im not familar with the boost levels from the chip. we're installing a boost controller on the a3 tonight and pulling a forge mbc from my evo tonight to test. a wideband is also in place for safety. on track days we'll do a mix of 104/93 and crank the boost up a couple more pounds to make some power

cheers!

stay tuned for results

illbill

probably not worth it. You'll most likely lose some part throttle driveability.

fwiw, I love having the in car adjustability of my ebc.

bhvrdr

This is one of those reasons I wouldn't do this as the information folks tend to have is bad information. Your car already has a factory wideband. The peak for APR is about 19psi and for OEM is about 13psi. Keep in mind that APR has optimized the fuel and timing and literally tens of others of variable to compensate for the added boost. What have you done? See why this is a bad idea? At the very least I assume you have full data logging capability so you can see what each of your changes is doing to affect other parameters and safey measures? cheers! Mike