DIY: Engine Oil and Filter Change on the Transverse 2.0t FSI Engine
04-06-2006, 06:07 PM
#11
New idea for DIY drain tool
Now that I see what the valve looks like: (Thanks for the pics)
PVC pipe.. Just big enough to fit around the orange tip on the drain valve and bear against the flange.
Below that, a tee, a plug, and more pipe, long enough to reach the floor (Cap the end)
Attach the hose to the side of the tee. top end against the drain valve, and wedge the bottom end against the floor to push the valve in.
Something like this:
<center><img src="http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/DrainTool.jpg"></center>
Height variations can be compensated for by shimming the floor with wood wedge, or a phone book, using as many pages as necessary..
PVC pipe.. Just big enough to fit around the orange tip on the drain valve and bear against the flange.
Below that, a tee, a plug, and more pipe, long enough to reach the floor (Cap the end)
Attach the hose to the side of the tee. top end against the drain valve, and wedge the bottom end against the floor to push the valve in.
Something like this:
<center><img src="http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/DrainTool.jpg"></center>
Height variations can be compensated for by shimming the floor with wood wedge, or a phone book, using as many pages as necessary..
05-10-2012, 04:59 PM
#19
AudiWorld Newcomer
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oil Change for A3, 2006
Sorry to say this, but the previous posts were only minimally helpful. I recently got this 2006 A3 and here is the drill. Unless you are 5" thick, you will need to have a ramp or jack to elevate the front of your car. The plastic skid plate has torx bolts, you need to remove all 4 on the passenger side, only the front 2 on the driver side. Remove your oil filler cap to relieve the pressure and then loosen the bolt on the bottom of the case. The oil will gush once you remove the bolt, have your pan ready. Once the draining is mostly done, use a vice grip to very gently grab the cap of the plastic filter housing which is in the front of the engine, almost dead center. You will see a pink/purple nipple that you can push in and off to one side with a screw driver. This will cause the oil to spray out of the center of this nipple - get your pan ready ahead of time. Once this has drained, you will use your vise grips again to twist the hexagonal neck of the plastic filter housing to loosen it, then you can hand twist it in order to remove the plastic housing which will reveal the filter element. Remove the filter, lube it with your new synthetic oil. The plastic housing has a central core which your old and new filter fit around. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the old rubber gasket (it has a tab to grab hold of), replace with the new supplied gasket and slide your new filter on the center shaft of the plastic housing. Once in place lube up the filter's rims and replace the filter/plastic housing on the threaded protrusion that you removed it from. Replace the plastic cap on top of the housing and tighten the oil drainage bolt. Add your synthetic oil through the oil filler cap to approximately 4liters. Wait 5 minutes, then check your oil level, do not add too much at one time as on this car the level comes up very rapidly. As soon as you are happy with the oil level as read on the dipstick, recheck your tightening of the drain plug and clean it all up. Put your plastic skid plate back in place by sliding the pinch sections above and below the front bumper receiver, then tighten your 6 torx bolts which you previously removed. Recheck the oil level, then congratulate yourself for not spending a ridiculous amount of money to have some monkey do this. I bought 5.1 liters of Mobil One for $25.00 at O'Reilly's auto parts, the filter was $11.00. This is great synthetic oil and the cheapest I could find the change for in my area was about $65.00. Have fun.
JSM
JSM
