is this a good price for an A3 2.0t?
07-17-2006, 08:12 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
is this a good price for an A3 2.0t?
the dealer showed me the invoice sheet and it was stated at $29,497 for a 2006 A3 2.0t, Arctic White w/ Black Leather.
MSRP: $31,150
Options were:
DSG
Bi-Xenon
Premium Package
Phone Prep w/ Bluetooth
Open Sky
The car had 320 miles on the Odometer.
good deal? thanks everyone.
MSRP: $31,150
Options were:
DSG
Bi-Xenon
Premium Package
Phone Prep w/ Bluetooth
Open Sky
The car had 320 miles on the Odometer.
good deal? thanks everyone.
07-18-2006, 03:07 AM
#3
New Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You have listed MSRP and Invoice prices; what is the offer price?
It is *my* notion to decrement a new car's value $1 per mile on the odometer: Ideally a new car has damn-near 0 miles on it, hence damn-near no adjustment. Of course, dealers love to tell you that the car is "new" as long as it has not been titled and has less than 4900 miles on it. Hogwash!
I recently cancelled a deal on a 2006 A3 2.0T ($200 over dealer cost; $100 doc fee, tax, registration extra) because there were substantially more miles on the car than we (dealer and I) originally bargained over. With my $1/mile rule, the dealer would have lost money (purportedly), but I would not accept a "new" car with more than twice as many miles as this car you speak of without that price adjustment.
Based on my experience and action, you should pay no more than invoice, period.
But I still don't like the idea of purchasing a "new" car -- particularly if you want to keep it for several years (post-warranty) -- with 320 miles on it...
I plan on ordering a 2007 and driving it off the lot with <30 miles on it.
I recently cancelled a deal on a 2006 A3 2.0T ($200 over dealer cost; $100 doc fee, tax, registration extra) because there were substantially more miles on the car than we (dealer and I) originally bargained over. With my $1/mile rule, the dealer would have lost money (purportedly), but I would not accept a "new" car with more than twice as many miles as this car you speak of without that price adjustment.
Based on my experience and action, you should pay no more than invoice, period.
But I still don't like the idea of purchasing a "new" car -- particularly if you want to keep it for several years (post-warranty) -- with 320 miles on it...
I plan on ordering a 2007 and driving it off the lot with <30 miles on it.
07-18-2006, 08:43 AM
#6
New Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"... feel reluctant...". I think you're resolving your own quandary here (as I did).
There will always be more cars to be had, more deals to be had, regardless of what impression the dealer may be conveying now.
07-18-2006, 09:09 AM
#7
Are you buying a car or deal? If you like that specific car, and the dealer is willing to negotiate
then it might be a good deal for you. However, if it's just the discount that is catching your eye and you'd rather have another combo, then don't get this car.
The dealer isn't going to lose (potentially a lot of) money to sell a car - they are a business, not a charity. So it all depends if they have some kind of trunk money (a few cars did - and it was available to only a select number of dealers). Sometimes they do need to take a loss, but if the number is too large, then it is a reasonable gamble to hold onto the car a while longer and see if they can't get at least a little closer to breaking even. Just giving you an insight into what happens inside the dealer.
In the grand scheme of things $1000 shouldn't be the primary concern when you're already spending $30,000. Making sure you get a car you'll like for a long time is the main goal, since turning cars over often is what really costs you big bucks in the long run.
The dealer isn't going to lose (potentially a lot of) money to sell a car - they are a business, not a charity. So it all depends if they have some kind of trunk money (a few cars did - and it was available to only a select number of dealers). Sometimes they do need to take a loss, but if the number is too large, then it is a reasonable gamble to hold onto the car a while longer and see if they can't get at least a little closer to breaking even. Just giving you an insight into what happens inside the dealer.
In the grand scheme of things $1000 shouldn't be the primary concern when you're already spending $30,000. Making sure you get a car you'll like for a long time is the main goal, since turning cars over often is what really costs you big bucks in the long run.
Trending Topics
07-18-2006, 12:02 PM
#9
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Agreed.
to answer April, i guess id be willing to buy the car if the deal is right. the A3 i am looking at isn't spec'ed exactly as i would have it, and the milage is higher than desired. i also spec'ed a 2006 A3 on both KBB and edmunds, and both sites returned a lower "Invoice" price than what i was quoted at the dealer (which makes me angry, are they lying or slipping in more money somewhere).
i like the A3, love the DSG, but i guess my time to own an audi will be sometime in the future.
i like the A3, love the DSG, but i guess my time to own an audi will be sometime in the future.
07-18-2006, 12:43 PM
#10
AudiWorld Super User
I can attest to that !
It does pay to get it right the first time, if it's possible based on your personality ;-). 1K over however long the period of financing, leasing is not a big deal; but based on what looks like a demo, if he really loves it, I'd try and get the best price possible, without alienating anyone. You may need to take it back there one day for, let's say, your open sky latch or something;-)