April

with serious issues when laying down power unless people pop for a mechanical limited slip. Too much torque down low. Ideal for street, crummy for track.

With awd the 3.2 doesn't have this issue, but as anybody who spends time at the track knows, you live in the 5000+rpms band range as that is where the torque and horsepower curves usually cross. So it appears that HPA is catering to people who visit the track and who probably aren't going to stop modding their car at the intake. It doesn't appear to be something for everyone, but that's no reason to dismiss it.

In any case, that doesn't answer if some of the differences in the dyno plots were due to different cars or different weather conditions.

boki-san

wrong'em, boyo. us spec vr3.2 has always been 250hp. vw originally understated actual hp by 9hp

HPA Motorsports

Hello everybody,

I will make a general statement surrounding the 4th gear low RPM loss that you are referring to.

No1)
Look over to the net OEM or CVP crank/wheel HP in discussion at this RPM. Of the possible 250HP, we are at the 120+/- mark at 3500RPM. That means, should you opt to accelerate your car at full throttle in 4th gear or even 3rd gear from 3000+RPM, you have already decide to try to move this 3200lb car with 100 less of your 250 potential HP. Possible choice, kick down a gear, locking the RPM at 4900ish or find the RPM that will tap you most HP and make your move.

No2)
Should you be speaking about daily driving loss, then I ask you, log your throttle body for a drive in correlation to your RPM. You will find that your drive at about 20-30% TB, which means that max fuel/timing/airflow is NEVER tapped into, and only a small percentage of that bottom end loss is ever going to be encountered.

In General;

Dyno sheets are critical for deciding where and how to tune and spend money. The Dyno will allow you to see what potential HP you are engaging at what RPM
So far, on EVERY configuration CVP has been strapped to, it made HP in the upper RPM.

To decide what potential this has for your non FI application, go home, take your car for a full throttle run and note at which RPM you land at every shift before the next full throttle is engaged. Next, if you have VAD or Vag Com, look at the percentage of TB you engage during a normal low RPM drive, and factor that against % of actual OEM HP for the RPM to put into perspective realize HP or loss to HP in this RPM out on the street.

To tune for real world, you need to trim down the relevant zones and stay focused on the target. You will not expose yourself to the low RPM loss UNLESS, you choose to engage 100% full throttle in 4th gear from 3000RPM and beyond. BUT, then you are choosing to use only 100HP of your total engine s output anyway.

I hope this will generalization will offer additional insight in interrogating dyno sheets and performance mods.

Nik Brkich
HPA Motorsports

Pat

That said, I don't think we are referring to "low RPM loss." It looks to me like the only advantage with the new IM is after 5,000 RPMs. I would hardly call that "low RPM." In the real world, A3s spend waaaay more time below 5K than above it.
So am I right in thinking this would not be a good mod for a street-driven car? I don't understand everything written here, but it seems to me like this will only help if you almost hit redline when driving all the time. What am I missing? Maybe you just need to dumb it down one more level for me.