New A3, breakin oil change question
#1
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Hi everyone,
I'm a brand new A3 owner and LOVING it!!! I've never owned a "luxury" vehicle but have driven plenty of sporty cars including Talons, Preludes, MR2s and new model Miatas. In comparing those and test drivint things like the BMW 3 series I have to say the A3 ranks right up there with the MR2 and 3 series but has its own character that I enjoy a lot.
Anyway. I've searched the forums and scanned through many messages but I'd like to ask specifically about oil change and breakin.
I know that the breakin process is heavily debated, I've decided to do something closer to the non-conservative breakin. So some oil questions:
1) Seems like many people recommend using non-synthetic oil during oilchange. I noticed people are saying the A3s come with Castrol SLX, which appears to be synthetic. Should I be changing to a non-synth?
2) I've read recommendations of changing oil after a small amount of mileage, 1000km, 500km, or some people even doing it after 100km. Apparently this has something to do with metal debris from the breakin period. What do you guys think?
I've already found some references including this one
https://forums.audiworld.com/a3/msgs/50028.phtml
but I was hoping to explore this issue in detail.
I'm a brand new A3 owner and LOVING it!!! I've never owned a "luxury" vehicle but have driven plenty of sporty cars including Talons, Preludes, MR2s and new model Miatas. In comparing those and test drivint things like the BMW 3 series I have to say the A3 ranks right up there with the MR2 and 3 series but has its own character that I enjoy a lot.
Anyway. I've searched the forums and scanned through many messages but I'd like to ask specifically about oil change and breakin.
I know that the breakin process is heavily debated, I've decided to do something closer to the non-conservative breakin. So some oil questions:
1) Seems like many people recommend using non-synthetic oil during oilchange. I noticed people are saying the A3s come with Castrol SLX, which appears to be synthetic. Should I be changing to a non-synth?
2) I've read recommendations of changing oil after a small amount of mileage, 1000km, 500km, or some people even doing it after 100km. Apparently this has something to do with metal debris from the breakin period. What do you guys think?
I've already found some references including this one
https://forums.audiworld.com/a3/msgs/50028.phtml
but I was hoping to explore this issue in detail.
#2
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As for metal particles, that's what the filter is for. Today's engine manufacturing processes are much more exacting than they were years ago so there's not a lot of "particle production".
Try to hang in there until the 5K service.<ul><li><a href="http://www.audiusa.com/common/images/Audi_Approved_Oil_Chart.pdf">Audi-approved Oils</a></li></ul>
Try to hang in there until the 5K service.<ul><li><a href="http://www.audiusa.com/common/images/Audi_Approved_Oil_Chart.pdf">Audi-approved Oils</a></li></ul>
#3
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There are plenty of them out there. Some of the info is out of date (metal particles); some just plain wrong (drive extra hard to get better post-break-in performance).
Changing oil at less than 5k miles in your A3 is a waste of time and money. Using non-synth may void the warranty and is not a good idea anyway.
If by "non-conservative" you mean using high revs and full throttle, good luck. You'll need it. I've taken enough Porsche and Audi engines apart that had this kind of break-in to know what the cylinder walls look like.
If you mean a more sensible approach -- avoid high rpm, heavy throttle and vary engine speeds frequently, with emphasis on compression braking -- you will get long life out of your engine.
Changing oil at less than 5k miles in your A3 is a waste of time and money. Using non-synth may void the warranty and is not a good idea anyway.
If by "non-conservative" you mean using high revs and full throttle, good luck. You'll need it. I've taken enough Porsche and Audi engines apart that had this kind of break-in to know what the cylinder walls look like.
If you mean a more sensible approach -- avoid high rpm, heavy throttle and vary engine speeds frequently, with emphasis on compression braking -- you will get long life out of your engine.
#4
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referring to the 330xi i was test driving. he further said i could go WOT. i, of course, did not because whenever i do a test drive or have a rental car, i treat it with the same respect as i would my own car. i mean, someone is gonna buy that 330xi.
i digress.
i strongly agree with needing good luck with a non-conservative break-in.
at the same time, there are folks that take it real easy during the break-in period and then stomp on it.
i have noticed the best results with gradually easing into high revs and speeds. running through the allowed rpm range in each gear and varying speed. then, for xxx mi, i raise the rpm threshold 500 rpm or so. and also gradually give more throttle building up to going WOT.
i digress.
i strongly agree with needing good luck with a non-conservative break-in.
at the same time, there are folks that take it real easy during the break-in period and then stomp on it.
i have noticed the best results with gradually easing into high revs and speeds. running through the allowed rpm range in each gear and varying speed. then, for xxx mi, i raise the rpm threshold 500 rpm or so. and also gradually give more throttle building up to going WOT.
#5
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Going too "easy" is also bad break-in practice.
The gradual-increase method you describe is exactly what I have done over the years in various Vee-dubs, Porsches and Audis, and it has never let me down, never resulted in high oil consumption or unsatisfactory performance.
On a related note, back when I worked for Porsche/Audi as a tech, Shell did a study using oil drained from 911s and among their findings was scientific confirmation that a majority of the wear in an engine's life takes place in the first few seconds each time it starts (after sitting for at least a few hours).
Yet another reason to use synth.
-dan
The gradual-increase method you describe is exactly what I have done over the years in various Vee-dubs, Porsches and Audis, and it has never let me down, never resulted in high oil consumption or unsatisfactory performance.
On a related note, back when I worked for Porsche/Audi as a tech, Shell did a study using oil drained from 911s and among their findings was scientific confirmation that a majority of the wear in an engine's life takes place in the first few seconds each time it starts (after sitting for at least a few hours).
Yet another reason to use synth.
-dan
#6
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the turbo until I had 1500 miles on the dial. Like I said before, the salesman pushed the car hard; I thought HE was going to break it. I quess I liked the rush so much I continued it. My right foot's a little lighter now...well until I chip it.
Anyway your car is under warranty ,is it not? If it breaks, they can fix it.
Anyway your car is under warranty ,is it not? If it breaks, they can fix it.
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#8
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synthetic is the way to go. absolutely.
turbo cars and high-revving cars, imo, need an even more stringent break-in period than other cars.
i used to have a B5 S4 and there was talk about how the turbo lady would visit whoever and whenever. 02's were less likely to blow turbos b/c of the better updated K03s. i suspect that there is a high correlation between those who blew turbos and those who did not break in their cars well. and, of course, there are the factors of how hard they drove their cars overall and of how they cooled down their cars before shutting off.
i was not aware the most wear was in the first few seconds. i thought of it more generally as what the driver does until the car warms up.
to those who have 2.0T, i recommend proper cool down esp. after spirited driving or really hot days.
while turbo timer is a bit much and just adds another thing that can fail, there are 2 approaches that work well:
1. about 5 min. from your destination, try to keep the car at low rpms until arrving.
2. arrive at destination and open your hood (yes it looks silly and folks will come by and ask if your car is okay). let the car run at idle for 2-3 min. then shut off car and close hood (of course :P).
just my 2 cents.
turbo cars and high-revving cars, imo, need an even more stringent break-in period than other cars.
i used to have a B5 S4 and there was talk about how the turbo lady would visit whoever and whenever. 02's were less likely to blow turbos b/c of the better updated K03s. i suspect that there is a high correlation between those who blew turbos and those who did not break in their cars well. and, of course, there are the factors of how hard they drove their cars overall and of how they cooled down their cars before shutting off.
i was not aware the most wear was in the first few seconds. i thought of it more generally as what the driver does until the car warms up.
to those who have 2.0T, i recommend proper cool down esp. after spirited driving or really hot days.
while turbo timer is a bit much and just adds another thing that can fail, there are 2 approaches that work well:
1. about 5 min. from your destination, try to keep the car at low rpms until arrving.
2. arrive at destination and open your hood (yes it looks silly and folks will come by and ask if your car is okay). let the car run at idle for 2-3 min. then shut off car and close hood (of course :P).
just my 2 cents.
#10
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after-run coolant pump like the 225 TT's do. It continues circulating coolant through the turbo for a few minutes after shut down. It is still no substitute for proper cool-down, but it helps to have.