Rdrcr's A3 Build Thread.
05-26-2012, 08:13 AM
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Rdrcr's A3 Build Thread.
For fun, I decided to post a build thread for my A3. In reality, I’m not building anything, so this thread will simply illustrate the path I take and modifications and improvements I make to my A3.
The car…
2009 Audi A3 is Black/Black equipped with the 2.0T and DSG transmission with the Premium, Titanium, and S-line packages.
Why did I buy an A3? Well, I needed to downsize from two cars to one. I wanted one car that could replace my daily driver and my weekend/track toy. I found the Audi A3’s size, shape, four-doors, and sporty nature to fit my needs perfectly.
I’m confident that this A3 is going to be an excellent car because it is luxurious, well built, and fun to drive. The A3’s character reminds me of my previous VW’s, a 2002 GTI 337 and a 2008 R32, both of which I thoroughly enjoyed.
The A3 flaunts a very rich, high-quality interior constructed of high-end materials. The dashboard, interior trim, and the various instruments are all well laid-out and arranged smartly. I immediately noticed the high quality feel of the switch-gear, steering wheel, and the high-grade leather used on the very comfortable seats. Though, I must say, that the seats are a little too ‘flat’ for my tastes, they could offer more support for spirited driving. But, hey, enough about the seats, even the stock Audi sound system is surprisingly impressive for an OEM vehicle.
Overall, Audi’s execution and attention to detail regarding the A3, is truly remarkable.
I chose to buy an A3 with the 2.0T because the engine provides more than enough power to make the A3 fun to drive and it is easily modified to produce more power. I was happy in the past with VW’s 1.8T but, the 2.0T with its quick turbo spool-up and the amount of torque available in the low-rpms make it seem as if the car has a V6 under the hood. For a four cylinder, considering the power, and the fuel economy, the 2.0T is definitely impressive, even in stock form.
I’m a manual transmission type of guy. I normally own one automatic car and one manual transmission car at any given time. However, since I am downsizing to one vehicle, I had to make a compromise and, based on my previous experience with the R32, I knew the DSG is the perfect compromise for my situation. I’ll admit, I’m not a huge fan of the DSG in auto mode. I find that the transmission in auto mode shifts way too often at low speeds. It is very annoying and, at times, even frustrating to drive in auto mode. I’m pretty sure the super conservative and rapid automatic shift programming is done to conserve fuel but, ironically, I can achieve the same or, better fuel mileage in manual mode. Go figure! Like my R32, I plan to do most of my driving in manual mode.
My A3, as equipped, already looks and drives great. However, I plan to subtlety modify the A3 to suite my personal tastes.
So what needs to be improved?
For performance, my plan is to boost the power output of the 2.0T with an ECU Tune, Intake, Water/Methanol Injection, and Exhaust. To go along with the performance enhancements, I want to add a boost gauge and perhaps a wide-band gauge to monitor the engine vitals. In addition, the DSG will receive an HPA performance stage 2 Tune which will be complimented by a set of S2T Performance paddle shifters (which was the awesome combination I had in my R32).
For appearance, I personally like the way my A3 looks (with the exception of the ride height) so I don’t plan to modify the exterior extensively. There’s a good chance I’ll swap out the current Headlamps and Tail lamps to the HID/LED models that I’ve seen. For wheels, at least for the moment, I’ll stick with the OEM’s. I will, however, be adding window tint immediately!
I’ll need to spend some more time behind the wheel of my A3 before I make any decisions regarding the suspension setup. However, I will be adding a set of height-adjustable coilovers, as soon as possible… I don’t like driving around in what appears to be a 4x4 A3. LOL!
What did I forget???
If you are interested in my build, please stay tuned…
Mike
The car…
2009 Audi A3 is Black/Black equipped with the 2.0T and DSG transmission with the Premium, Titanium, and S-line packages.
Why did I buy an A3? Well, I needed to downsize from two cars to one. I wanted one car that could replace my daily driver and my weekend/track toy. I found the Audi A3’s size, shape, four-doors, and sporty nature to fit my needs perfectly.
I’m confident that this A3 is going to be an excellent car because it is luxurious, well built, and fun to drive. The A3’s character reminds me of my previous VW’s, a 2002 GTI 337 and a 2008 R32, both of which I thoroughly enjoyed.
The A3 flaunts a very rich, high-quality interior constructed of high-end materials. The dashboard, interior trim, and the various instruments are all well laid-out and arranged smartly. I immediately noticed the high quality feel of the switch-gear, steering wheel, and the high-grade leather used on the very comfortable seats. Though, I must say, that the seats are a little too ‘flat’ for my tastes, they could offer more support for spirited driving. But, hey, enough about the seats, even the stock Audi sound system is surprisingly impressive for an OEM vehicle.
Overall, Audi’s execution and attention to detail regarding the A3, is truly remarkable.
I chose to buy an A3 with the 2.0T because the engine provides more than enough power to make the A3 fun to drive and it is easily modified to produce more power. I was happy in the past with VW’s 1.8T but, the 2.0T with its quick turbo spool-up and the amount of torque available in the low-rpms make it seem as if the car has a V6 under the hood. For a four cylinder, considering the power, and the fuel economy, the 2.0T is definitely impressive, even in stock form.
I’m a manual transmission type of guy. I normally own one automatic car and one manual transmission car at any given time. However, since I am downsizing to one vehicle, I had to make a compromise and, based on my previous experience with the R32, I knew the DSG is the perfect compromise for my situation. I’ll admit, I’m not a huge fan of the DSG in auto mode. I find that the transmission in auto mode shifts way too often at low speeds. It is very annoying and, at times, even frustrating to drive in auto mode. I’m pretty sure the super conservative and rapid automatic shift programming is done to conserve fuel but, ironically, I can achieve the same or, better fuel mileage in manual mode. Go figure! Like my R32, I plan to do most of my driving in manual mode.
My A3, as equipped, already looks and drives great. However, I plan to subtlety modify the A3 to suite my personal tastes.
So what needs to be improved?
For performance, my plan is to boost the power output of the 2.0T with an ECU Tune, Intake, Water/Methanol Injection, and Exhaust. To go along with the performance enhancements, I want to add a boost gauge and perhaps a wide-band gauge to monitor the engine vitals. In addition, the DSG will receive an HPA performance stage 2 Tune which will be complimented by a set of S2T Performance paddle shifters (which was the awesome combination I had in my R32).
For appearance, I personally like the way my A3 looks (with the exception of the ride height) so I don’t plan to modify the exterior extensively. There’s a good chance I’ll swap out the current Headlamps and Tail lamps to the HID/LED models that I’ve seen. For wheels, at least for the moment, I’ll stick with the OEM’s. I will, however, be adding window tint immediately!
I’ll need to spend some more time behind the wheel of my A3 before I make any decisions regarding the suspension setup. However, I will be adding a set of height-adjustable coilovers, as soon as possible… I don’t like driving around in what appears to be a 4x4 A3. LOL!
What did I forget???
If you are interested in my build, please stay tuned…
Mike
05-26-2012, 11:31 AM
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First things First. Window Tint!
As a car enthusiast living in California can be frustrating (you'll probably read this often in this thread). We have some ridiculous laws that make modifying a car difficult. We even have laws that even discourage automotive window tint! Luckily, the laws only prohibit the use of window tint on the windshield, and on the front driver and passenger windows. We can legally tint the rear windows and rear glass on any vehicle.
My understanding behind this law is to protect our law enforcement officers when they approach a vehicle. They want to be able to see inside the vehicle to confirm if a suspect is armed or not.
The problem I have with this law is that there are benefits to have window tint on most, if not all your windows. The tint actually protects the interior from the harmful rays of the sun if the car spends quite a bit of time outside in direct sunlight (which my car does when it is not at home in the garage). Just look at any 5 year old or, older vehicle that spends time outside in direct sunlight without window tint and compare it to another car of the same age and model year with window tint under the same conditions and examine the interior. The car without window tint will show a lot more fading, cracking, and overall interior wear and tear. Which is why this law sucks. I want my window tint on all windows AND, I don’t want to have to worry about being fined and given a ‘fix-it’ ticket!
Oh well, I can’t have everything in life… I’ll take my chances.
Did I also mention that window tint keeps the car cooler inside and it looks great!
I got all my windows tinted with the exception of the front windshield. The front door windows were tinted at 30% and the rear glass was tinted at 15%. Nothing too crazy. Here are a couple pics;
Mike
As a car enthusiast living in California can be frustrating (you'll probably read this often in this thread). We have some ridiculous laws that make modifying a car difficult. We even have laws that even discourage automotive window tint! Luckily, the laws only prohibit the use of window tint on the windshield, and on the front driver and passenger windows. We can legally tint the rear windows and rear glass on any vehicle.
My understanding behind this law is to protect our law enforcement officers when they approach a vehicle. They want to be able to see inside the vehicle to confirm if a suspect is armed or not.
The problem I have with this law is that there are benefits to have window tint on most, if not all your windows. The tint actually protects the interior from the harmful rays of the sun if the car spends quite a bit of time outside in direct sunlight (which my car does when it is not at home in the garage). Just look at any 5 year old or, older vehicle that spends time outside in direct sunlight without window tint and compare it to another car of the same age and model year with window tint under the same conditions and examine the interior. The car without window tint will show a lot more fading, cracking, and overall interior wear and tear. Which is why this law sucks. I want my window tint on all windows AND, I don’t want to have to worry about being fined and given a ‘fix-it’ ticket!
Oh well, I can’t have everything in life… I’ll take my chances.
Did I also mention that window tint keeps the car cooler inside and it looks great!
I got all my windows tinted with the exception of the front windshield. The front door windows were tinted at 30% and the rear glass was tinted at 15%. Nothing too crazy. Here are a couple pics;
Mike
05-29-2012, 12:40 PM
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Today I decided to 'scope' the intake manifold of my A3 to check for carbon build-up.
I admit, I'm a little spooked. A close friend of mine has an '09 GTI 2.0T with 60K miles that had a massive build-up of carbon in the intake manifold, on the valves, and in the cylinder head. The VW dealership replaced quite a few different parts before they decided to 'scope' the intake and check for build-up. When they did, they found what would be equivalant to a softball size amount of carbon in his engine. Since the carbon build-up has been removed, his car is running great, like it did when it was new!
I personally don't want to start modifying the 2.0T until I can be reasonably certain that I'm not going to run into trouble down-the-road. I know the previous owner completed all the scheduled maintainance for my A3. However, what I don't know is how the car was driven and if he/she used premium brand fuels and/or, performed any additional maintainance/oil changes to help prevent the dreadful carbon build-up.
Anyway, here is the process and what I found in my engine:
First, I located the IAT sensor.
Then, using a T-30 torx driver I removed the IAT sensor
Removing the IAT sensor leaves an access hole in the intake manifold so I can insert the camera
Here is a picture illustrating some carbon build-up in the intake manifold and on the valves.
Another picture illustrating carbon build-up in the intake manifold and on the valves.
Well, my 2.0T does have 'some' carbon build-up in the intake manifold and cylinder heads but, it isn't as severe as other cars I've seen. And since the carbon build-up in my engine hasn't really hurt the gas mileage or set off any CEL's I think it may be ready for some modifications. However, I wish there were easier ways to clean and prevent the mess...
Mike
I admit, I'm a little spooked. A close friend of mine has an '09 GTI 2.0T with 60K miles that had a massive build-up of carbon in the intake manifold, on the valves, and in the cylinder head. The VW dealership replaced quite a few different parts before they decided to 'scope' the intake and check for build-up. When they did, they found what would be equivalant to a softball size amount of carbon in his engine. Since the carbon build-up has been removed, his car is running great, like it did when it was new!
I personally don't want to start modifying the 2.0T until I can be reasonably certain that I'm not going to run into trouble down-the-road. I know the previous owner completed all the scheduled maintainance for my A3. However, what I don't know is how the car was driven and if he/she used premium brand fuels and/or, performed any additional maintainance/oil changes to help prevent the dreadful carbon build-up.
Anyway, here is the process and what I found in my engine:
First, I located the IAT sensor.
Then, using a T-30 torx driver I removed the IAT sensor
Removing the IAT sensor leaves an access hole in the intake manifold so I can insert the camera
Here is a picture illustrating some carbon build-up in the intake manifold and on the valves.
Another picture illustrating carbon build-up in the intake manifold and on the valves.
Well, my 2.0T does have 'some' carbon build-up in the intake manifold and cylinder heads but, it isn't as severe as other cars I've seen. And since the carbon build-up in my engine hasn't really hurt the gas mileage or set off any CEL's I think it may be ready for some modifications. However, I wish there were easier ways to clean and prevent the mess...
Mike
06-04-2012, 06:47 AM
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High on my priority list, of ‘things-to-do’ to my A3, was to lower the suspension.
I had to lower my A3.
These cars just look better lowered.
I purchased a set of ST Speedtech Coilovers to accomplish this task.
So, if my goal was simply to lower the suspension my Audi for appearance and I didn’t really care about the suspension performance, why didn’t I simply purchase a set of lowering springs?
In my experience it is hard to find aftermarket lowering springs that work well with the OEM dampers. Usually an example of this combination results in a choppy and uncomfortable ride because the spring rates and the damper rates don’t match. Conversely, my experience with aftermarket Coilover suspension setups has been much better, which is why I decided to go in that direction.
Do it once, do it right…or, something like that?
I could have purchased a set of aftermarket springs AND a set of aftermarket shocks to compliment the improved spring rates (however, there is still a possibility that the spring/damper rates won’t match, resulting in a horrible ride, and I’d have to swap everything back out and do it all again…Not fun!) but, ironically, when you add up the total investment of a spring/shock combination, the price for a set of Coilovers was surprisingly competitive. Plus, with Coilovers, not only do they offer matched damper and spring rates, they also sport the ability to manually adjust the ride height to suit my own personal tastes. Bonus!
There are obviously a ton of aftermarket Coilover suspension choices available for the Audi A3. However, to narrow the field, my decision was based on price (I wanted to spend under $1K) and manufacture reputation.
The ST Speedtech Coilovers fit my needs, and wallet, perfectly. The ST Coilovers are made by KW and ST is owned by KW automotive. KW’s reputation as a Coilover suspension manufacture is solid.
The ST Coilovers are basically the same as the KW V1 Coilovers except, they are constructed of high grade steel (not stainless steel) that is heavily galvanized for rust prevention, and they have a 5 year warranty (instead of a limited lifetime warranty), however, the ST’s cost much less, yet offer the same features and suspension performance. Originally, I wanted to purchase the KW V1’s so I was extremely pleased to stumble upon the ST’s for the A3.
The installation of the ST Coilovers wasn’t too complicated. I did a little research online and found an article by one of the more popular Euro magazines that did a project A3 where they did a step-by-step Coilover installation. I’m happy I found the article. It proved to be of significant help for my novice mechanical knowledge and skills. In addition, had I not read the article I wouldn’t have had a 27mm socket or a 14mm 12-point triple square bolt when I needed it!
Anyway, the rear OEM shock absorbers and springs were easily removed and the ST parts were installed in like fashion with the help of some power tools. The fronts, well, they took a little more work. We ended up removing the entire front strut assemblies and placed them on a bench for their disassembly and reassembly with the new ST Coilover components. Overall, it took about 4 hours of work to get the job done and I had a great time doing it!
I’m very happy with the appearance and ride of my A3 with the new ST Coilovers installed. The overall appearance and ride height is completely adjustable and I’m still fiddling with it. Even though the ride height measurements are the same front to rear, I may take the front down another half inch for just the right ‘look’.
The ride quality is better than I expected it to be. I would describe the ride quality as firm but, with a ‘sporty’ OEM quality. I can feel that the springs and dampers are well matched together and to the vehicle design and weight. I wouldn’t claim or characterize the ST Coilovers as a luxury setup but, seriously, this setup could be used for OEM. The ride is firm, yet compliant and it only feels firm when it needs to be.
As expected, my A3 equipped with the ST Coilovers, has better steering response on initial turn-in, it corners flatter throughout every turn, at any speed, and I have a better sense of speed and a greater confidence while driving at high speeds. I’m impressed. The ST Coilovers are definitely worth the purchase price. I think they are a true bargain. I recommend them!
Mike
I had to lower my A3.
These cars just look better lowered.
I purchased a set of ST Speedtech Coilovers to accomplish this task.
So, if my goal was simply to lower the suspension my Audi for appearance and I didn’t really care about the suspension performance, why didn’t I simply purchase a set of lowering springs?
In my experience it is hard to find aftermarket lowering springs that work well with the OEM dampers. Usually an example of this combination results in a choppy and uncomfortable ride because the spring rates and the damper rates don’t match. Conversely, my experience with aftermarket Coilover suspension setups has been much better, which is why I decided to go in that direction.
Do it once, do it right…or, something like that?
I could have purchased a set of aftermarket springs AND a set of aftermarket shocks to compliment the improved spring rates (however, there is still a possibility that the spring/damper rates won’t match, resulting in a horrible ride, and I’d have to swap everything back out and do it all again…Not fun!) but, ironically, when you add up the total investment of a spring/shock combination, the price for a set of Coilovers was surprisingly competitive. Plus, with Coilovers, not only do they offer matched damper and spring rates, they also sport the ability to manually adjust the ride height to suit my own personal tastes. Bonus!
There are obviously a ton of aftermarket Coilover suspension choices available for the Audi A3. However, to narrow the field, my decision was based on price (I wanted to spend under $1K) and manufacture reputation.
The ST Speedtech Coilovers fit my needs, and wallet, perfectly. The ST Coilovers are made by KW and ST is owned by KW automotive. KW’s reputation as a Coilover suspension manufacture is solid.
The ST Coilovers are basically the same as the KW V1 Coilovers except, they are constructed of high grade steel (not stainless steel) that is heavily galvanized for rust prevention, and they have a 5 year warranty (instead of a limited lifetime warranty), however, the ST’s cost much less, yet offer the same features and suspension performance. Originally, I wanted to purchase the KW V1’s so I was extremely pleased to stumble upon the ST’s for the A3.
The installation of the ST Coilovers wasn’t too complicated. I did a little research online and found an article by one of the more popular Euro magazines that did a project A3 where they did a step-by-step Coilover installation. I’m happy I found the article. It proved to be of significant help for my novice mechanical knowledge and skills. In addition, had I not read the article I wouldn’t have had a 27mm socket or a 14mm 12-point triple square bolt when I needed it!
Anyway, the rear OEM shock absorbers and springs were easily removed and the ST parts were installed in like fashion with the help of some power tools. The fronts, well, they took a little more work. We ended up removing the entire front strut assemblies and placed them on a bench for their disassembly and reassembly with the new ST Coilover components. Overall, it took about 4 hours of work to get the job done and I had a great time doing it!
I’m very happy with the appearance and ride of my A3 with the new ST Coilovers installed. The overall appearance and ride height is completely adjustable and I’m still fiddling with it. Even though the ride height measurements are the same front to rear, I may take the front down another half inch for just the right ‘look’.
The ride quality is better than I expected it to be. I would describe the ride quality as firm but, with a ‘sporty’ OEM quality. I can feel that the springs and dampers are well matched together and to the vehicle design and weight. I wouldn’t claim or characterize the ST Coilovers as a luxury setup but, seriously, this setup could be used for OEM. The ride is firm, yet compliant and it only feels firm when it needs to be.
As expected, my A3 equipped with the ST Coilovers, has better steering response on initial turn-in, it corners flatter throughout every turn, at any speed, and I have a better sense of speed and a greater confidence while driving at high speeds. I’m impressed. The ST Coilovers are definitely worth the purchase price. I think they are a true bargain. I recommend them!
Mike
06-23-2012, 09:56 AM
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Did I mention, I like gauges…
Especially, accurate ones that tell you cool things while you drive.
So, I decided it was time to add a Boost Gauge to my A3 before any more serious modifications are added.
Obviously, adding a boost gauge to the A3 isn’t too trivial or, difficult. But, I did have to decide on which gauge to purchase and how I wanted to mount it.
I’ve owned a lot of boost gauges over the years and have installed them on a variety of vehicles. Some gauges have been more accurate than others and the prices have been all over the place, some cheap and some really expensive. I’ve found that the mechanical boost gauges are the most accurate and by far, the least inexpensive when compared to electrical gauges. My experience with VDO’s mechanical boost gauges has been excellent and that is why I decided to go with their product for my A3.
In addition, I chose to purchase the Newsouth Column Pod to mount my VDO gauge because it isn’t as obnoxious as an A-Pillar mount and has a somewhat OEM appearance. I could have chosen to mount the boost gauge in one of the classy A/C vent mounts but, I feared that it would interfere with the A/C vent deflection causing the air to not flow in the direction that I wish. I want to be comfortable when I’m driving (this is an Audi for God’s sake).
There were a couple other options that mount in the lower dash/center console area but, I felt that the placement is too low to make the gauges readable while driving.
The installation for both the gauge and the Column Pod was simple and straightforward. The VDO gauge easily slides into the Column Pod and the Pod sits on top of the OEM steering column trim. The Column Pod doesn’t come with anything to attach it to the steering column trim but, the directions do call for the use of double-sided tape. I ended up using Velcro because that is what I had on hand and I knew there was a chance that I many need to remove it temporarily and reinstall it in the future for some reason or, another. In a case like this, Velcro will work much better than double-sided tape. I think the Newsouth Column Pod would be better if it was made to ‘replace’ the upper steering column trim shroud for a more secure and OEM style installation. But, hey, that’s just my opinion.
I continued the installation by removing the lower dash panel. This was done by removing three screws (one of which is hidden behind the fuse panel on the side of the dash) which allows you to pull the panel straight towards the driver seat and it pops off. This gave me access to the wiring and the firewall. I tapped two wires on the headlamp switch so my gauge will light-up when the headlamps are on. I found the rubber plug on the firewall that allows access to the engine compartment. I poked a hole in the plug and fed my boost/vacuum hard-line through the hole. I got lucky. I was able to grab my hard-line and run it through the proper areas WITHOUT removing the battery. Perfect!
To complete the installation I installed the APR Modular Boost Tap which made the connection of the boost line to the intake manifold the easiest part of the entire process. The APR boost tap or, a like product, is definitely worth it.
Everything is working great and I’m really happy with the results.
Here are a few pictures;
Mike
Especially, accurate ones that tell you cool things while you drive.
So, I decided it was time to add a Boost Gauge to my A3 before any more serious modifications are added.
Obviously, adding a boost gauge to the A3 isn’t too trivial or, difficult. But, I did have to decide on which gauge to purchase and how I wanted to mount it.
I’ve owned a lot of boost gauges over the years and have installed them on a variety of vehicles. Some gauges have been more accurate than others and the prices have been all over the place, some cheap and some really expensive. I’ve found that the mechanical boost gauges are the most accurate and by far, the least inexpensive when compared to electrical gauges. My experience with VDO’s mechanical boost gauges has been excellent and that is why I decided to go with their product for my A3.
In addition, I chose to purchase the Newsouth Column Pod to mount my VDO gauge because it isn’t as obnoxious as an A-Pillar mount and has a somewhat OEM appearance. I could have chosen to mount the boost gauge in one of the classy A/C vent mounts but, I feared that it would interfere with the A/C vent deflection causing the air to not flow in the direction that I wish. I want to be comfortable when I’m driving (this is an Audi for God’s sake).
There were a couple other options that mount in the lower dash/center console area but, I felt that the placement is too low to make the gauges readable while driving.
The installation for both the gauge and the Column Pod was simple and straightforward. The VDO gauge easily slides into the Column Pod and the Pod sits on top of the OEM steering column trim. The Column Pod doesn’t come with anything to attach it to the steering column trim but, the directions do call for the use of double-sided tape. I ended up using Velcro because that is what I had on hand and I knew there was a chance that I many need to remove it temporarily and reinstall it in the future for some reason or, another. In a case like this, Velcro will work much better than double-sided tape. I think the Newsouth Column Pod would be better if it was made to ‘replace’ the upper steering column trim shroud for a more secure and OEM style installation. But, hey, that’s just my opinion.
I continued the installation by removing the lower dash panel. This was done by removing three screws (one of which is hidden behind the fuse panel on the side of the dash) which allows you to pull the panel straight towards the driver seat and it pops off. This gave me access to the wiring and the firewall. I tapped two wires on the headlamp switch so my gauge will light-up when the headlamps are on. I found the rubber plug on the firewall that allows access to the engine compartment. I poked a hole in the plug and fed my boost/vacuum hard-line through the hole. I got lucky. I was able to grab my hard-line and run it through the proper areas WITHOUT removing the battery. Perfect!
To complete the installation I installed the APR Modular Boost Tap which made the connection of the boost line to the intake manifold the easiest part of the entire process. The APR boost tap or, a like product, is definitely worth it.
Everything is working great and I’m really happy with the results.
Here are a few pictures;
Mike
06-28-2012, 08:09 AM
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06-28-2012, 09:50 AM
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As with any performance build, I think it is very important to record some baseline numbers so that the stock numbers can be compared with the results from future modifications.
I am lucky. In my local area we have quite a few dyno tuners that offer their dyno services to the public. To record my baseline numbers I chose to visit Tom at EFI West in Camarillo California because of their convenient business hours, experience, and enthusiasm. Tom is a great guy and he has more than 20 years experience with tuning EFI cars, a great reputation, and works very closely with OEM manufactures for engineering, fabrication, and tuning services. They know their stuff.
Anyway, here are the results we recorded on their DynoJet 220xLC;
All of my future modifications will be recorded on this exact dyno and because I will not be able to create the same exact weather conditions for each dyno session we will be using the SAE correction factors so that all the recorded results can actually be compared with the previous results.
In the case of this dyno visit, my A3 actually produced better numbers uncorrected but, since we will be using a correction factor to alleviate any inconsistencies for future dyno pulls, I posted the SAE results and not the ‘better’ WHP/WTQ results.
The 2.0 TFSI is rated and advertised as making 200 HP and 207 TQ to the crank. Based on my results and the results from others, it would appear that these engines do in fact make more power than their ‘advertised’ OEM numbers.
Mike
I am lucky. In my local area we have quite a few dyno tuners that offer their dyno services to the public. To record my baseline numbers I chose to visit Tom at EFI West in Camarillo California because of their convenient business hours, experience, and enthusiasm. Tom is a great guy and he has more than 20 years experience with tuning EFI cars, a great reputation, and works very closely with OEM manufactures for engineering, fabrication, and tuning services. They know their stuff.
Anyway, here are the results we recorded on their DynoJet 220xLC;
All of my future modifications will be recorded on this exact dyno and because I will not be able to create the same exact weather conditions for each dyno session we will be using the SAE correction factors so that all the recorded results can actually be compared with the previous results.
In the case of this dyno visit, my A3 actually produced better numbers uncorrected but, since we will be using a correction factor to alleviate any inconsistencies for future dyno pulls, I posted the SAE results and not the ‘better’ WHP/WTQ results.
The 2.0 TFSI is rated and advertised as making 200 HP and 207 TQ to the crank. Based on my results and the results from others, it would appear that these engines do in fact make more power than their ‘advertised’ OEM numbers.
Mike
08-05-2012, 11:32 AM
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Perhaps, I was too bored and had way too much time on my hands…
I don’t know about you guys but, I can’t stand the rear headrests in my A3 because they obstruct a significant portion of my rear view. So, like my previous VW Golfs, I immediately removed the three rear-view-robbing headrests and stored them in my garage. Now, you would think that this story is over. It should be, but my creative mind got the best of me, once again…
A few days ago I was in the garage vigorously waxing my A3 because a bird took a HUGE crap on the hood AND passenger front fender…Dude, HUGE crap, GARGANTUAN crap…I’m thinking the turd must have come from a pterodactyl that had been feasting on several large elephants… Anyway, while my brain was on auto-pilot, I happened to look over at the rear seat headrests sitting on the shelf and for some reason, the sight of them triggered some crazy thoughts and ideas. As I continued to wax the A3 I began thinking about what I could do with them.
Like the rear headrests, I also don’t like my front A3 headrests either but, for different reasons. I feel they are way too large and obnoxious, especially for me, since I’m so short. The VW GTI, for some reason or another, got better front headrests. They are smaller, better designed, and more comfortable. Why did the A3 get such crappy front headrests?
I decided to pull the left and right rear headrests off the shelf to see if I could install them on the front seats. Surprisingly they fit! The install was super easy. I just had to make sure the front seats where in a low and reclined position so the front headrests would clear the roof headlining panel when they were removed. The results? Well, I think they look pretty darn cool! It really gives the A3 front seats a ‘sporty’ appearance.
There are some drawbacks, however. Since the rear headrests aren’t designed to fit on the front seats they are not height adjustable because there is only one locked position. You either like the height, or you don’t. In addition, there is a potential issue regarding comfort because the rear headrests protrude a bit more forward when compared to the original front headrests which can be a problem if your favorite seating position isn’t somewhat reclined. Furthermore, in an accident, I’m not sure how ‘safe’ it is having the rear headrests installed on the front seats since they are smaller and have only one lock position. It’s anyone’s guess.
Personally, I find the modification really comfortable for daily driving because the new headrests are smaller, thinner, and are positioned nicely to support my head. Plus, they actually increase the rear and right hand side visibility while driving. However, I know when I throw on a helmet and start hot-lapping my A3 on the race track, I will have a problem with the modified headrest position because my helmet will, without a doubt, hit the new headrest and push my head forward making things rather uncomfortable. Though, to correct this issue, I think I’ll be able to put the headrest in the lowest ‘non-lock’ position and it will give me enough clearance for a comfortable seating position and still provide some protection in a rear end collision. I’m thinking as long as my A3 isn’t involved in a violent roll-over, I’ll be okay.
I can’t say I recommend this modification, or if it even makes sense but, I like the fact that it is ‘different’, it looks pretty cool, and it is surprisingly comfortable. I think I’m going to keep it like this for a while. Or, until I install some proper racing seats.
Up next for review;
HPA ECU Stage 1 tune, HPA DSG Stage 2 upgrade, S2T Performmance Paddle Shifters, Carbonio Intake, and Water/Meth injection...
Mike
I don’t know about you guys but, I can’t stand the rear headrests in my A3 because they obstruct a significant portion of my rear view. So, like my previous VW Golfs, I immediately removed the three rear-view-robbing headrests and stored them in my garage. Now, you would think that this story is over. It should be, but my creative mind got the best of me, once again…
A few days ago I was in the garage vigorously waxing my A3 because a bird took a HUGE crap on the hood AND passenger front fender…Dude, HUGE crap, GARGANTUAN crap…I’m thinking the turd must have come from a pterodactyl that had been feasting on several large elephants… Anyway, while my brain was on auto-pilot, I happened to look over at the rear seat headrests sitting on the shelf and for some reason, the sight of them triggered some crazy thoughts and ideas. As I continued to wax the A3 I began thinking about what I could do with them.
Like the rear headrests, I also don’t like my front A3 headrests either but, for different reasons. I feel they are way too large and obnoxious, especially for me, since I’m so short. The VW GTI, for some reason or another, got better front headrests. They are smaller, better designed, and more comfortable. Why did the A3 get such crappy front headrests?
I decided to pull the left and right rear headrests off the shelf to see if I could install them on the front seats. Surprisingly they fit! The install was super easy. I just had to make sure the front seats where in a low and reclined position so the front headrests would clear the roof headlining panel when they were removed. The results? Well, I think they look pretty darn cool! It really gives the A3 front seats a ‘sporty’ appearance.
There are some drawbacks, however. Since the rear headrests aren’t designed to fit on the front seats they are not height adjustable because there is only one locked position. You either like the height, or you don’t. In addition, there is a potential issue regarding comfort because the rear headrests protrude a bit more forward when compared to the original front headrests which can be a problem if your favorite seating position isn’t somewhat reclined. Furthermore, in an accident, I’m not sure how ‘safe’ it is having the rear headrests installed on the front seats since they are smaller and have only one lock position. It’s anyone’s guess.
Personally, I find the modification really comfortable for daily driving because the new headrests are smaller, thinner, and are positioned nicely to support my head. Plus, they actually increase the rear and right hand side visibility while driving. However, I know when I throw on a helmet and start hot-lapping my A3 on the race track, I will have a problem with the modified headrest position because my helmet will, without a doubt, hit the new headrest and push my head forward making things rather uncomfortable. Though, to correct this issue, I think I’ll be able to put the headrest in the lowest ‘non-lock’ position and it will give me enough clearance for a comfortable seating position and still provide some protection in a rear end collision. I’m thinking as long as my A3 isn’t involved in a violent roll-over, I’ll be okay.
I can’t say I recommend this modification, or if it even makes sense but, I like the fact that it is ‘different’, it looks pretty cool, and it is surprisingly comfortable. I think I’m going to keep it like this for a while. Or, until I install some proper racing seats.
Up next for review;
HPA ECU Stage 1 tune, HPA DSG Stage 2 upgrade, S2T Performmance Paddle Shifters, Carbonio Intake, and Water/Meth injection...
Mike
