Sway Bars?
#21
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Again, it depends all on how far and what route you are going.
Example.
1. Standard HSport A4 F and R setup
Front = 60% stiffer than OEM
Rear = 150% stiffer than OEM
2. Rear-only A4 setup from other manufacturer...
Rear = 120% stiffer than OEM
In the two cases above, the car is going to behave a bit differently. In the first case, you will gain quite a bit more reduced roll for a subjectively better feel for placement of the vehicle, BUT you will not really be taking out much of the understeer (you wont be adding to it either though).
In the second case, you will only moderately assist with overall roll, but you will move the car closer to neutral (dialing out some of that understeer).
I can see that some people would find benefit in either of these routes depending on what their goal is with the car and what other suspension hardware will be selected. For example, a person who lives in a potholed area or for whatever reason is absolutely positive they will be sticking with the OEM suspension but strongly desires reduced roll in their car would likely want to go with option 1.
A person who is tracking the car and who cant yet afford the linear race coilovers but who wants a quick band-aid solution for roll control while running just aftermarket springs may want option 1 as well until they get the linear coilovers and then could replace the front bar back to OEM.
Some one who is already running the full linear track coilovers may want to go with option 2 since they can dial out roll independently using linear springs and selecting proper rates. On the other hand, they can also dial out understeer by selecting the proper rates as well.
cheers! Mike
Example.
1. Standard HSport A4 F and R setup
Front = 60% stiffer than OEM
Rear = 150% stiffer than OEM
2. Rear-only A4 setup from other manufacturer...
Rear = 120% stiffer than OEM
In the two cases above, the car is going to behave a bit differently. In the first case, you will gain quite a bit more reduced roll for a subjectively better feel for placement of the vehicle, BUT you will not really be taking out much of the understeer (you wont be adding to it either though).
In the second case, you will only moderately assist with overall roll, but you will move the car closer to neutral (dialing out some of that understeer).
I can see that some people would find benefit in either of these routes depending on what their goal is with the car and what other suspension hardware will be selected. For example, a person who lives in a potholed area or for whatever reason is absolutely positive they will be sticking with the OEM suspension but strongly desires reduced roll in their car would likely want to go with option 1.
A person who is tracking the car and who cant yet afford the linear race coilovers but who wants a quick band-aid solution for roll control while running just aftermarket springs may want option 1 as well until they get the linear coilovers and then could replace the front bar back to OEM.
Some one who is already running the full linear track coilovers may want to go with option 2 since they can dial out roll independently using linear springs and selecting proper rates. On the other hand, they can also dial out understeer by selecting the proper rates as well.
cheers! Mike
#24
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but everyone else with the bar was saying otherwise. I took it off once in 5 years to relube and clean . . . powdercoat still looked good, bushing looked good . . . I think I got lucky because I really packed it with grease the first time and there was no contamination with dirt & etc.
Since everything was still good, I opted not to use the updated bushings and sent it back to neuspeed. Used a product called Syl-Glyde (can be had at napa for $5) to grease the bar and it was squeakless up until the day I sold the car.
Dave
Since everything was still good, I opted not to use the updated bushings and sent it back to neuspeed. Used a product called Syl-Glyde (can be had at napa for $5) to grease the bar and it was squeakless up until the day I sold the car.
Dave
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