divo_2.0T

I have the base sound (non-bose) and find the subwoofer punchy (no rumble, but very intrusive), leading me to turn the speakers to mainly the fronts.

I'm contemplating pulling the sub out and making an MDF box for a 10" sub - just wondering who's been through it and how much work is involved?

I'm pretty good with handiwork but have never connected an amp to a stereo, let alone a stock head unit.

Talk me into/out of this project.

Rice Etr

It will take out some of the 'drone' you're referring to and soften the 'punch' a little. Could be a cheaper and quicker alternative to building something from scratch.

divo_2.0T

Whassat mean

Kayaker

You may want to ask over on the audio forum. I'm not sure the little separate amp will power much of any aftermarket sub. I replaced the sub and a new amp with a custom sub enclosure that keeps it stealth. My new sub is only 8 inches. Also replaced the front speakers and simply shut off the rear door speakers. Also disconnect the tv speaker in the center dash.

<img src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f286/kayaker10/April06025.jpg">
<img src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f286/kayaker10/c89b4580.jpg">

divo_2.0T

How's the sound, and what kind of amp did you use? This is like what I was thinking...

Kayaker

The sub is very musical with a good clean punch when called upon. I used DLS components up front. The tweeters produce a very good midrange which is were voices are reproduced. This means you get a great sound stage of most of the music appearing at about eye level. By turning off the rear door speakers, you can then dial in the soundstage without interference. Plus it means you can save any money you were thinking of spending on all four doors for better fronts. Don't forget to eliminate the center dash speaker. It is litterally a 2 inch tv speaker.

The amp is a digital Zappco. Built in fans in the amp keep it plenty cool enough. I can reach a usb wire to further tune the amp through the oem vent on the upper left side. But to be honest, once it was tunned for the type of music I mostly listen too, I've not had to touch it for the last two years.

The shop I had the install done has gone out of business, but one installer is still in the area in a new shop. He may have the mold for the enclosure. I know at the time they were contemplating selling them if there was enough interest.

If you go this route of keeping the oem hu, you must ground the bose pin on the back of the hu to output a flat signal that the new amp can then process. The oem hu will continue to power the rear door speakers. I just use the fader control to turn them off.