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Trailer Hitch Coming Soon! (need suggestions)

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Old 05-06-2006, 09:16 AM
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Default Trailer Hitch Coming Soon! (need suggestions)

Ok everyone,

Thanks to OOOO-A3 I'll probably be working with Curt Manufacturing to donate my A3 so they can create and manufacture a trailer hitch for our A3's. I'm in the process of working out some details and time frames with them, but I will be making the one-way 5 hour trek (twice) for "the community" this month.

While Mark (Curt Manufacturing) and I pound out some details, I wanted to ask everyone if they have any specific requests on the new hitch so I can prep them with some insight. For example:

- No cutting through the bumper (if possible).
- Type of class hitch (tell me the type of application you will use for this hitch. I will be using it for a bike rack or towing one jet ski.
- No visibility of the hitch unless in use (important to me).

Your comments and suggestions will be gathered and provided to Curt before I bring my car to them. And I WILL make sure plenty of pictures are posted!

BTW - anyone still wanting to send me a six-pack for my troubles...my fridge is open and waiting! Send me something unique to your area - I'm always willing to try something new! I will provide you with my contact info at a later date - once it's completed!!

Here's a link to the original thread that started this all - http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread?id=2549458

Thanks...
Old 05-06-2006, 09:50 AM
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Default OK, here we go..

1. To fit the 3.2 Quattro. (I don't suppose you have one?)

2. My need is to tow a 4' x 6' bed utility trailer with motorcycle rail. (My Volvo factory hitch is rated at 1500 lbs, and has a 1-5/8" receiver with 2" ball on the tongue.)

3. Limit bumper cut to lower valence. (anything hanging below bumper will mess up the clean appearance in that area. (I can build a hatch cover for the hole.)

4. And, or course, an electrical interface box that will work with the Audi's PWM-driven tail lights. (On my Volvo, I just stored the trailer plug inside, and just let it run out under the hatch when towing)

5. If it replaces the metal bumper beam under the cover, like on the Euro hitches, it should closely match the curve of the cover, so it will take the load if it gets bumped, instead of having square corners that punch through the cover when it gets pushed forward. It should also have the same energy-absorbing capacity as the original beam, so the chassis doesn't get bent in minor impacts.

What Curt really needs to do is buy the drawings from Westfalia or another European hitch maker who has no interest in the US market. They wouldn't need the car then. (Or they could buy the hitch and copy the mounting bar portion.)

<img src="http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/RearBumpers2.jpg"><ul><li><a href="http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeropost?cmd=tshow&amp;id=2357399">Old A3 trailer hitch thread.</a></li></ul>
Old 05-06-2006, 01:56 PM
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Default Thanks for doing this!

I plan on useing the sportsrig trailer for up to 6 kayaks. Class 1 is fine. Also, a wiring harness that works with our cars. I have a 2.0. We have great beer here in Oregon. IM me an address and a sampler pack is on its way.
Old 05-06-2006, 03:02 PM
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Default Specs...

ool! Thank you so much for doing this!

Here's what I'd like:

1. Mounting and crossbar identical to the Wesfalia and Al-Ko hitches that I emailed him the PDF and photo of. He has those, just remind him. That'll make it OEM-like for mounting.

2. Minimal trimming of the lower valence would be acceptable (e.g. a notch in the under-car edge of it, not a gaping hole in the middle.) It would be different if we could get the Audi lower valence with the removable panel, but it's not available in the US.

3. 200lb tongue weight/2000lb trailer weight (Class 2, right?).

The wiring situation will be difficult. I'm working on that and will keep them informed.
Old 05-08-2006, 07:21 AM
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Default Re: Specs...

<i>200lb tongue weight/2000lb trailer weight (Class 2, right?).</i>

That's Class 1. Class 2 is 3500/300.

For me, a Class 1 (2000/200) receiver-type hitch would be perfect.

My only other requirement is that the receiver be as high as possible off the ground to avoid dragging, and as far forward as is reasonably possible to lock in the drawbar and attach the chains -- the closer the ball is to the rear axle, the better the towing experience.

I tow a formula ford on an open trailer, with a total weight of about 1600 pounds (unless I'm loaded up with extra tires and other bits).
Old 06-09-2006, 10:10 AM
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Any news?
Old 06-11-2006, 03:05 PM
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bump....any news on a hitch?
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