2010 Audi A3 2.0 TDI

I just ordered my first Audi it's a 2010 A3 2.0 TDi here in the USA. I hope to get delivery of it in December 2009, but since I live in the East Coast (CT) - I am concerned about how it will handle in the snow since it is only available in FWD. Can anyone tell me how there FWD A3 handles in wintery conditions like snow, slush and icy condition?

Can any TDi owners also let me know if there is anything I should know about starting my cat in the cold? I can remember a long time ago when my dad had an old diesel truck he had to plug it in. I don't think that with newer Diesels but it doesn't hurt to ask.

Thank you in advance,
Jason

wabisabi

Our '07 A3 2.0T does well in the winter but I am sure the snow tires have something to do with that. Get a set of snows and you will not regret it. The right tire for the job will make a huge difference and, in the end, there is very little additional cost since the "summer" tires will be on holiday during winter wonderland driving.

Here is what we choose for winter. 16"
Dunlop SP Winter Sport 3D (Performance Snow)
Borbet Type LS Bright Silver Paint

We bought them through the dealer but I am sure they sourced them from Tirerack. Delivered to your house, they would run about $1000. I believe the Audi factory package would run about $2000.

As for winter TDI issues, my 1996 Passat TDI was never plugged in and it never had trouble starting even though the car was rarely garaged.

Here is a link to the Q7 forum that discusses fuels and fueling a little bit.
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2765107

tundar

I live up in Canada (Montreal) where it snows a ton and I find the winter drive quite good with the A3 as long as you have good winter tires. Front wheel drive vehicles handle quite well in the winter. Still, whether you drive an A3 or an A4, the driver is the most important factor so if you are an experienced driver, you shouldn't have a problem with its drive.

chittychittybangbang

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_h..._checklist.htm

Read this for a A3 TDI specific new owner checklist.

Especially when it's cold, after you turn the key to "ON", leave it for a second even after the glow plug light goes off. The light off just means the minimum glow has been reached, waiting a second will let the heat penetrate a little more. If you fill up in the south and then drive up north, it's possible the fuel isn't as winterized as up north. If this is the case then add some powerservice fuel additive.

Even though it won't have quattro, get snow tires. Plus the standard stability control and you'll have no problems. Even if you have 4wd, if there's 0 traction on the tires, 4 x 0 still equals 0.

wabisabi

I'd have to disagree on this. Once the glow plugs are out, the temp cools from 1,800 deg. f. and there is no soaking in but rather just cooling. If you are concerned and the temp is below -20 deg. f., hit the glow plugs again by turning the key back and then forward again. On my Q7, the whole thing is automated anyway so waiting to engage the starter motor isn't even an option. I know that my '96 Passat TDI had a mechanical ignition switch and I could hit the glow plugs twice before engaging the starter motor but my Q7 is electronic which means that once the start sequence has been called, the rest is out of my control. With my '96 Passat TDI I did not have any issue with starting and I engaged the starter motor immediately after the glow plug light went out. I drove it for 9 years and 190,000 miles before selling it. My '07 A3 with the gas 2.0 t has a mechanical ignition switch but I bet the 2010 will have the electronic switch.

dbthompson

I agree. With FWD and snows, the tires will sometimes spin from a start a little, but it does fine. There's just a lot of torque there, and you have to learn a light throttle.

LWNY

With snow or low grip conditions, traction control (besides all season/snow tires) is the most important factor for an A3 FWD. Without traction control, torque will go to the wheel with the lowest traction. Traction control will merely apply the brakes on that wheel so the differential will transfer the torque to the other wheel, which hopefully is not on as slippery a surface as the first wheel.