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Which means you had your Yellow and Orange polarity wrong. What did you assume Yellow and Orange were in terms of positive and negative.
Orange positive and yellow negative. I'm still not 100% sure I have everything setup correctly. With the gain at 40% the base is overpowering even at low volume. I ran the key program and had to turn the gain almost all the way down. Can you confirm the input level should be set to high (pushed in) in my situation?
And that is where you went wrong. Orange is Negative and Yellow is Positive. Where did you pick that information from. I thought I went through all the threads I could find alerting people to this incorrect information.
Turn your Bass Boost all the way down.
Input Level should be set to High, because you are using the Speaker level inputs.
DC Offset should be On if you are using the Auto turn on feature. If you are using the 12V socket as your Remote Turn on, then DC Offset should be Off.
Turn the gain down a bit. and/ or turn the Low Pass filter down a bit if you are finding the Bass too much.
I got it from Bryan’s pdf write up I printed a few weeks ago. Now that you mention it, I vaguely remember you correcting that for the A5 Sportback but I didn’t make note of it.
If you have your OEM subwoofer completely removed then connect the Orange and Yellow pair to the Kicker too, so that the B&O amp sees some load on both pairs of Subwoofer outputs. Remember Orange is Negative and Yellow is Positive.
The Key feature is meant to restore the Bass that is rolled off to protect the factory subwoofer. If you have it set up, try listening to stuff with it turned on and the off and see which you prefer.
Also make sure your Bass and Subwoofer dials on the MMI are turned down.
For anyone interested....I installed the Kicker Key amp where the factory subwoofer was installed under the spare tire. I haven't seen any pictures of this setup, so thought I would share. I'm sure there are better ways to secure it, but I mounted the amp to a 5 1/2" X 11" piece of 3/4" plywood. I then used silicone to secure the plywood to the metal floor of that space. I also drilled a hole to let one of the threaded posts that was originally used to secure the factory sub to pass thru the plywood. I used a spade bit to countersink the "washer" on the bottom of the threaded post.
In hindsight a 1/2" thick piece of plywood would allow one of the nuts that secured the factory sub to be reused on the threaded post for to further secure the plywood.
If you have your OEM subwoofer completely removed then connect the Orange and Yellow pair to the Kicker too, so that the B&O amp sees some load on both pairs of Subwoofer outputs. Remember Orange is Negative and Yellow is Positive.
The Key feature is meant to restore the Bass that is rolled off to protect the factory subwoofer. If you have it set up, try listening to stuff with it turned on and the off and see which you prefer.
Also make sure your Bass and Subwoofer dials on the MMI are turned down.
Thanks Bruce. Will do.
When you say make sure the bass and subwoofer are turned down....do you mean under 12 o'clock or all the way down? Or is it personal preference?
Whenever you are setting up an amplifier you should always set up your HU with Treble, Bass and Subwoofer levels at the 12 O Clock position. This was you can turn them both up and down
For anyone interested....I installed the Kicker Key amp where the factory subwoofer was installed under the spare tire. I haven't seen any pictures of this setup, so thought I would share. I'm sure there are better ways to secure it, but I mounted the amp to a 5 1/2" X 11" piece of 3/4" plywood. I then used silicone to secure the plywood to the metal floor of that space. I also drilled a hole to let one of the threaded posts that was originally used to secure the factory sub to pass thru the plywood. I used a spade bit to countersink the "washer" on the bottom of the threaded post.
In hindsight a 1/2" thick piece of plywood would allow one of the nuts that secured the factory sub to be reused on the threaded post for to further secure the plywood.
noticing the wiring using Bruce’s cable (I want to buy on soon) - so if we’re removing the factory subwoofer, we use the green and black cables on the green connector as +/- for speaker level inputs? The ornage and yellow is if we’re keeping the factory subwoofer?
You should not pay any attention to the colours on my cable. Look at the plug on the OEM subwoofer and see what colours they connect to on my cable.
Then if you keep the OEM subwoofer connected, just use the Green as your Positive input and Black as your Negative. You dont need to use both pairs.
If you disconnect the OEM subwoofer, then connect the Orange as Negative and Yellow as Positive on the second input of the Kicker.