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Changing all the speakers in a B&O sportback car

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Old 05-27-2020, 10:23 PM
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Connect the OEM subwoofer back up. If things then start working consistently it means that the B&O amp needs to see some load that unfortunately the Kicker amp isn't able to provide. What you have reported is quite similar to a lot of other reports where people were just tearing their hair apart wondering what was going on to cause the intermittent issue.

I would still try and get hold of Kicker support. Its poor show that they don't mention the Blinking Green LED in the manual.

Don't read too much into the fact that the amp doesn't work well with cars having more that 6 speakers. I think that refers to their other Key amp, not the subwoofer one.

You might want to redo/recheck that Ground connection for the Kicker Amplifier to make sure it is connected extremely well and makes good contact with the Ground point. Strange things happen with flakey ground connections.
Also if you have a DMM, make sure that you are definitely seeing an input AC voltage into the Kicker Amplifier, when there is no output. Play a 50Hz test track while measuring your voltages.
Also make sure your DC offset is enabled and measure that you are definitely seeing a DC Offset by using your DMM set to DC voltage.

See here for the issues Bobby had but you may or may not have the same issue.
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b9-platform-discussion-214/rear-deck-subwoofer-upgrade-b-o-2972479/page3/#post25423274

Last edited by bruce_miranda; 05-28-2020 at 03:33 AM.
Old 05-28-2020, 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Mortys66

My settings are Hi Pass 12 o'clock, Low Pass 12 o'clock, Bass Boost at 0. Now I'm not sure what to do with the DC Offset push button On or Off and what it does? I'm not sure if the button for the Lo or Hi switch be in the Low or Hi position? I'm not sure what o'clock position I put the gain at?
i got help tuning mine, i will go take a picture and post it to show what i have it at. the idea was in mmi turn the sub all the way up and mess with the gain where its the highest you would want it, then you can back off of it in the mmi itself. just like what bruce says below, yes hi should be on (button pressed in).
Old 05-28-2020, 07:46 AM
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Best way to test it to remove input of amp and plug in an iPod or something like that to the RCA input.
That would eliminate any issues with ground or not getting a signal from oem radio
i’d also verify you didn’t pinch any of the wires coming from oem sub on the way to amp
hence the short to ground message
why don’t you just use the audio control LC2i?
guaranteed to work , and only costs $70

Old 05-28-2020, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by SD->DC
i got help tuning mine, i will go take a picture and post it to show what i have it at. the idea was in mmi turn the sub all the way up and mess with the gain where its the highest you would want it, then you can back off of it in the mmi itself. just like what bruce says below, yes hi should be on (button pressed in).

my settings
Old 05-28-2020, 09:32 AM
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If you see the blinking Green light again try simply pulling the input signal plug out of the Kicker Amplifier and seeing if the blinking stops. I am curious to know what Kicker has to say about a blinking green led though.
Old 05-28-2020, 07:51 PM
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Per Kicker the blinking Green LED light was the amp after I started the KEY Gain Setting process. I never did get the Gain Light to come on, even when I had the gain at 11 or all the way up. According to Kicker Tech Support after I started the Key Gain Adjustment the Gain Light should have come on within seconds as I turned the gain dial up with the Gain Test Tone playing. The light would never come on when the intermittant gremlin came out. I was able to accomplish both the KEY Gain Setup and the KEY Test Tones when the system was working. In the end they told me to get the KISLOC 2 Channel Line Out Converter
Amazon Amazon

Which I ordered and I also ordered this Audio Control LC2I Line Out Converter
Amazon Amazon
that some folks have had success with for the Auto On function.

Old 05-29-2020, 01:19 AM
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You won't need those LOCs if you plan to run with the OEM subwoofer connected in the long run. So don't waste your money on them just yet.
Because if all that is needed is a remote on, then there is a much easier and cheaper way to enable that and something I did myself. You use the 12V socket in the boot to provide you with a remote turn on.

So I would recommend that you first figure out if your issue is actually a missing load on the B&O amp or something else.
Make sure your Kicker amp is completely set up both in terms of Gain and the Key functions. You don't want any blinking Green LEDs etc.

Just connect up your OEM subwoofer and keep it connected at all times and see if any of these intermittent issues reoccur.

Last edited by bruce_miranda; 05-29-2020 at 02:21 AM.
Old 05-31-2020, 12:52 PM
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Hey folks, I just want to let you know that I have been troubleshooting a few things, by getting direction and help (both on the phone and through email) from Kicker's Tech Support. I did follow every wire that was disturbed on the stock subwoofer enclosure and also double checked the wiring that I added for the Kicker KEY amp & JL Audio 10" external subwoofer to eliminated any possibility of having a 'wire to ground' in the system to try and account for the OBD11 Fault seen above. The fault happened twice prior to the 8th of May, so I am not sure what that was. I had not started any upgrades or additions to the stock B&O audio system prior to May 8th, so I don't believe it is anything that I induced or happened as a result of my attempt to upgrade or alter anything in the B&O Audio. I have since added a REM wire to the Kicker amp (with the switched 12V DC power supply coming from the AUX Power Port that is located in the RT side cubby hole) and have been running the amp without issue since the REM wire was added. I have also disconnected the stock subwoofer feed and have had no problem getting audio from the added Kicker amp and Skar subwoofer that is connected to the stock B&O Subwoofer Audio feed with the jumper at the connector on the stock enclosure. I am now just powering only the added Kicker and external sub for a couple days to check the stability and proper connections now that the REM wire has been added.
Old 05-31-2020, 01:38 PM
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That is certainly good news. You are now using a configuration similar to mine where in, I too am not running the OEM subwoofer via the HU. The OEM subwoofer wires are connected directly into my aftermarket amplifier without any LOC. The aftermarket amplifier should have been able to sense the DC offset on these High Level inputs and switch itself on, but that wasn't consistent at all. So I provided my aftermarket amp with a REM and then everything worked fine.
If with your OEM subwoofer disconnected, your Kicker and Skar keep working each time every time, then I think you have just solved the issue, without needing an unnecessary LOC.
Hopefully you should be able to move on with your project after this slight speed bump.
Old 06-08-2020, 10:03 PM
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OK folks, I'm back from vacation and moving forward with the subwoofer project. I was glad to see the Basser subwoofer enclosure was here at the house when I returned, finally..... I am looking forward to getting started with moving the phone amplifier, wiring hook-ups for the enclosure and the JL Audio 10" subwoofer, installing the sub and installing the Basser enclosure into the car.


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