When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Because if you look at Bobby Kinstle's spreadsheet, you will see that the high pass for the door woofer is set very low. You are likely to get better bass response if the Fs is below the crossover point. It will also blend better with the subwoofer.
You are right, there are many alternatives for the door woofers, almost all of them from the home or professional audio segments, not car audio. Many of them may not be suitable as they are designed more for mid range performance than bass, and that is not how they are used in the B&O system. And you cannot change that.
Also, you will have to judge the other specs to determine whether they will work well in the door location. Some are designed for sealed enclosures, some for ported enclosures, none in car door enclosures. You want something that is flat between 100Hz and 300Hz, above that doesn't matter because of the B&O high pass. The Scanspeak manufactured version of the Vifa speaker you linked (***** is great, I have dealt with him), which is no longer being made, was most commonly used in ported enclosures. Doesn't mean it might not sound good.
The other spec you must pay attention to is the sensitivity of the speaker. The reason I started this thread was because I was not completely satisfied with the balance of the system, and a large part of that is getting both the efficiencies of bass /mids/highs relatively balanced both in volume and how they respond to dynamics. You are using FaitalPRO mids, which are quite sensitive speakers. They need to be used with a bass speaker with similar sensitivity. And the Vifa/Scanspeak is too low. You need to be looking at 90dB sensitivity. The Vifa woofer would be a good match for the Peerless mids.
thank you very much for your help. My setup is much more balanced.
the capacitor of the treble speakers
Are these suitable?
All those tweeters I have bought, and all the OEM ones in the Audi are soft dome tweeters. So far, I have listened to 4 of the 6 I bought, I would say the Scanspeak R1904/613001 is the "softest" sounding in the lower A pillar. But it may be over-powered by the FaitalPRO, so not balance too well. The difference between tweeters is much more subtle than the difference between mids.
If you do not already have one, get hold of a frequency sweep track or test tracks at various frequencies. Most of the brightness / harshness is coming from the crossover region between the mid and the tweeter. The OEM tweeter sounds a little gritty and coarse - 50 % of that is due to the cheap and horrible electrolytic capacitor they are using on it. Just replacing it with a decent quality film capacitor makes a big difference.
The crossover point you use for the tweeter will make as much difference to the sound as the brand of tweeter. A frequency sweep track really helps getting the crossover region right.
But the main question to ask if you are using the FaitalPRO and aren't prepared to use a LP filter with it, then why would you need a tweeter? B&O OEM Mid and tweeter response from Bobby Kinstle
FaitalPRO 4FE32-8 from FaitalPRO specification sheet
If you find the B&O satisfactory, and plenty do, then don't change it. Even though I have enough mids and tweeters to do a fleet of cars, I may not do our cabriolet, as I find the B&O system in that much better balanced than the Sportback.
Yes but it would be interesting to listen to a better sound system. What would you recomend for copue b&q b9.0? Price and parts and how much to exspect from upgrading.
What you find the best for your taste price and quality
thank you very much for your help. My setup is much more balanced.
the capacitor of the treble speakers
Are these suitable?
Nichicon Muse are very nice electrolytic capacitors for electronic circuits. I won't use electrolytic capacitors in a speaker crossover myself, only film capacitors. But I am possibly the exception in these forums, as most people here use them and seem happy enough.
That is the same value as the OEM tweeter, at 4.7uF. This is what you want to use?
I will say, removing the small SIPE (which is an ASK brand) 4.7uF cap and replacing it with a decent quality film capacitor improves the sound of the OEM lower A pillar or rear door tweeters quite a bit - that is contributing much of the nasty raspiness in those tweeters. But film capacitors cost much more, around $4. And they are much bigger.
As an example, I just finished the rear doors today, and have finished my explorations for now. I have tried everything, but not every combination, as there are a lot of potential combinations. I need a break from it, as B.B. King summed it up so well, but I'll write stuff up and show photos as soon as stop being lazy:
Los condensadores electrolíticos Nichicon Muse son muy buenos para circuitos electrónicos. Yo no usaría condensadores electrolíticos en un crossover de altavoces, solo condensadores de película. Pero posiblemente soy la excepción en estos foros, ya que la mayoría de la gente aquí los usa y parece bastante feliz.
Ese es el mismo valor que el tweeter OEM, a 4,7 uF. ¿Esto es lo que quieres usar?
Diré que quitar el pequeño condensador SIPE (que es una marca ASK) de 4,7 uF y reemplazarlo con un condensador de película de calidad decente mejora bastante el sonido de los tweeters del pilar A inferior o de la puerta trasera OEM, lo que contribuye en gran medida a la desagradable aspereza de esos tweeters. Pero los condensadores de película cuestan mucho más, alrededor de $4. Y son mucho más grandes.
Como ejemplo, acabo de terminar las puertas traseras hoy y he terminado mis exploraciones por ahora. He probado todo, pero no todas las combinaciones, ya que hay muchas combinaciones potenciales. Necesito un descanso, ya que BB King lo resumió tan bien, pero escribiré cosas y mostraré fotos tan pronto como deje de ser perezoso: El Rey...
Puerta trasera del Audi B9 Sportback B&O: Tweeter SB Acoustics SB21RDCN-C000-4, condensador Mundorf MCap Classic 250, 8,2 µF ±5 %, 250 V CC/170 V CA, Ø22 x L33 mm
You are absolutely right! If I want to use same capacity. I don't think you'll have any problems using 250V. It's crazy, there are many alternatives and combinations to try.
Today, 09:42 AM
