2002 Allroad Missfire, Multiple Codes
#1
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I am at my wit's end with my Allroad. Its a 2002 2.7T, and a few weeks ago it started running a little rough, and since then has gotten more and more rough, losing nearly all power if you put the engine under load.
The car does have a FullFlex Gold E85 conversion kit on it, that's been running perfectly for 70k+ miles.
The codes that I'm getting are:
P0300 - Random multiple cylinder missfire detected
P0171, P0174 - System too lean (banks 1 and 2)
P0172, P0175 - System too rich (banks 1 and 2)
P0413, P0421 - Warm up catalytic Efficiency below threshold (banks 1 and 2)
Here's what I've done:
Replaced Mass Airflow Sensor (one of the filaments was burned)
Checked all intake manifold and turbo hoses for damage/leaks, and re-tightened all clamps
Removed both Diverter Valves to check for leakage and proper operation (hand vacuum holds them open indefinitely, and no leaks when closed and pressurized)
New E3 spark plugs less than 6 months ago
I have an appointment at a garage scheduled for this coming Monday morning and am hoping to get it fixed before then. Any thoughts as to what I should check next? Are there any other sensors or valves on the 2.7T engine that cause such problems when they go bad?
Thanks in advance for every suggestion, no matter how big or small! I miss my zippy wagon and just want to be able to pass people again!
Steve.
The car does have a FullFlex Gold E85 conversion kit on it, that's been running perfectly for 70k+ miles.
The codes that I'm getting are:
P0300 - Random multiple cylinder missfire detected
P0171, P0174 - System too lean (banks 1 and 2)
P0172, P0175 - System too rich (banks 1 and 2)
P0413, P0421 - Warm up catalytic Efficiency below threshold (banks 1 and 2)
Here's what I've done:
Replaced Mass Airflow Sensor (one of the filaments was burned)
Checked all intake manifold and turbo hoses for damage/leaks, and re-tightened all clamps
Removed both Diverter Valves to check for leakage and proper operation (hand vacuum holds them open indefinitely, and no leaks when closed and pressurized)
New E3 spark plugs less than 6 months ago
I have an appointment at a garage scheduled for this coming Monday morning and am hoping to get it fixed before then. Any thoughts as to what I should check next? Are there any other sensors or valves on the 2.7T engine that cause such problems when they go bad?
Thanks in advance for every suggestion, no matter how big or small! I miss my zippy wagon and just want to be able to pass people again!
Steve.
#2
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I have had the same problems with my 01 Allroad. We have changed o2 sensor, mass air, cleaned the throttle body, etc. The only thing we haven't changed is the cats. My mechanic says we shouldn't need to do that. What did you end up doing with your 2002
#3
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I had to change the ICM (ignition control modules) on my 2002 2.7T when I was getting misfires. These are the two electric devices on top of the air filter housing.
It takes 10 minutes to change them. The greatest amount of time is spent cleaning their mounting location of dirt and then applying a layer of heat sink grease.
I've purchased replacement ICMs as used parts via eBay. Check eBay for Audi's part number 4A0905351A or Bosch's part number 0227100209.
Here's an AudiWorld post of mine from a couple years ago:
It takes 10 minutes to change them. The greatest amount of time is spent cleaning their mounting location of dirt and then applying a layer of heat sink grease.
I've purchased replacement ICMs as used parts via eBay. Check eBay for Audi's part number 4A0905351A or Bosch's part number 0227100209.
Here's an AudiWorld post of mine from a couple years ago:
...Stupid me, I should have taken Carson's (Riverside Audi) advice and initially purchased a new ignition control unit (sometimes called an Ignition Amplifier or Power Stage Output Module), rather than spending the money and time installing new coilpacks. There is so much commentary on the coilpacks that I just assumed they were the problem. But, as is mentioned elsewhere, the coilpack on the 2002 AR 2.7T is solid.
You can determine if an ignition control unit is bad by exchanging the two identical modules mounted next to each other (on top of the air intake/ filter housing...just pull off the plastic cover to see the two parts). If the problem cylinder changes from one bank to the other ("123" to "456" or vice versa) then the ignition control unit is bad...not a coil pack. I scanned the running engine with VAG-COM and could actually see the misfires change banks when the ignition control modules were exchanged.
Problem solved. Well, I had to buy a new ignition module. It takes 10 minutes to change it. You'll need to clean off dirt and debris from the heat sink mounting location for the ignition module. And you'll need to use some new heat sink paste to allow heat to transfer from the module to the heat sink. This paste might come in a little plastic squeeze pouch with your new module.
BERU also makes a ignition control unit...not just Bosch.
BTW, I've got a couple extra ICMs which you can borrow to determine whether they will fix your problem.
You can determine if an ignition control unit is bad by exchanging the two identical modules mounted next to each other (on top of the air intake/ filter housing...just pull off the plastic cover to see the two parts). If the problem cylinder changes from one bank to the other ("123" to "456" or vice versa) then the ignition control unit is bad...not a coil pack. I scanned the running engine with VAG-COM and could actually see the misfires change banks when the ignition control modules were exchanged.
Edit: You also can try just exchanging the pairs of electrical connectors rather than moving the ICMs. I think the wires are long enough to switch between the ICMs.
I determined which control unit was defective by swapping out each control unit with one from my 2000 A6 2.7T. When the bad control unit was placed on the A6, that vehicle now had the misfires. (You can also look at the color of the connectors for each ignition control module. One connector pair is black; one pair is pinkish brown. The repair manual says which color goes to which bank...you'll have to look this up.)Problem solved. Well, I had to buy a new ignition module. It takes 10 minutes to change it. You'll need to clean off dirt and debris from the heat sink mounting location for the ignition module. And you'll need to use some new heat sink paste to allow heat to transfer from the module to the heat sink. This paste might come in a little plastic squeeze pouch with your new module.
BERU also makes a ignition control unit...not just Bosch.
Last edited by Mr. Timewise; 04-17-2011 at 08:27 AM.
#7
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We have got it all fixed. Replaced both pre-cat O2 sensors, found a vaccuum leak in a small hose at the left rear of the engine under the EGR crossover lines, but the funny part about the dead spot was the brake light switch. It's a $5 part and takes about 15 min. to put it in. My audi in running awesome now.
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