vtraudt

Do you wait in channel 0 until the 4 fields fill?
Or when increasing to channel 1 until the green lights on dash stop blinking?

I have already a new valve block installed. But compressor is not strong anymore.

I consider hooking up the shop compressor instead of the car compressor at the block (I had made myself a gizzmo that screws into the block (or air bag) and compressed air connection on other end).

Shop compressor has ca. 120 psi (less than 10 bar), but may be better than tired car compressor.

allroad55

Do you mean that when i begin to do 402 mod in channel 0, the green leveling lights are on?
And i wait for the lights stopping blink before begin to do 402 mod?
Yes, i do wait for stop bloinking.
Normally the dash lights stop blinking within at least around 30 seconds, so that always before i do 402 mod the lights stop blinking.

After saving in channel 5, the car normally stays at level 1, and i manually push the "up" buttom to move up to level 2 to check the car level by scale.
During moving from level 1 to 2, or level 2 to 3, the green light blinks until getting target level.
In case the increasing height difference is small like just 3mm or something, i think the green lights is not neccessary to blink, because the car can immediately get the target level with the power of compressor.

Please don't quart the oil to compressor inlet.
But im doing this more than 1 year without changing compressor and without problem.

vtraudt

Tried again yesterday, no luck.
The car had reached an 'acceptable' level over the last 2 weeks (front right still a bit low; but much better than before).

Ran throught the 402 carefully (only front right entered 392 as new value to raise it only 10mm; rest entered 402). Difference getting worse.

Tried again, now left front and rear is about 40mm higher than right rear, and front left even further down.

Tried also to go through the 'output test', but always get 'NO OK' at the end.

I noticed that during the output test, the front left and then the front right is 'lowered'. Later the rear corners. While the rears seem to drop, the fronts don't.

Is it possible that the BLEEDING lines are clogged, preventing the air bags to lower quick enough (or not at all)?

Teutonix

Were you able to save the new value you entered?

It sounds like there is something wrong with your system. Could be that the valve block is messed up, the compressor is worn out and too slow, one or more of the wheel sensors is giving a bad reading, etc etc. It is difficult to diagnose this sort of thing online. I recommend you bring it to someone who knows what they're doing, it could save you a lot of time and money.

I suppose so, particularly if you have ever put that slime crap into your bags. There's also the issue of moisture if you live in a cold climate and have leaks in your system. Does the system leak down overnight, or over several days?

This is the problem with accessing the non-"safe" functions of vag-com on an older vehicle. You can't always be sure that the underlying systems are operating within spec. Everybody ignores the disclaimers (myself included). I messed around with the level settings on my AR for a while, but eventually just set it back to stock numbers. If I want to drive around like a gangster, I just set it to level 1, but most days I'm enjoying the improved tire wear and handling characteristics of lvl 2 at 402mm.

vtraudt

Valve block is new.
Put 2 known good bags in front (old had 'random' leak - only level 1 and 2, no leak level 3 and 4).
Car has no leak (holds any level for days).
No slime, but months ago added compressor oil when it seemed the valve block is acting up (old valve block; new went in a bit later).

The compressor is 'tired'. Tomorrow, I will splice a 'T' into the compressor line (finally got myself a few of those 4mm fittings and tubing) and hook up the shop compressor parallel to the car compressor.

I can move through all 4 settings (but takes long; even the lowering, which indicates to me that it is not JUST a lazy compressor; bleeding the bags to drop to lower level should be independent of compressor).

Will also confirm initial feeling that in output test, when it goes through 'lowering xy', the corners may NOT all drop as the system expects.

I have found in the past that the system is NOT going through the 402 properly if the output test failed.

Next on my list: disconnect all 4 lines at the bags and valve block and try to 'blow out' the lines. This will also indicate any blockage in the line (or a kink somewhere?).
Would like to use some brake cleaner, but not sure how the plastic holds up. Probably should test first on a short section.

If all that does not lead to satisfying results, plan is to take the height sensors off and check them out. Open and clean if needed (I had seen a how to somewhere).

Other suggestions?

choptt

just drop in a new code like 29900, then login with 31564, then go to adaptation, do not change any of the values and you must wait untill the system says ok, takes a few minuets, run through and save all up to ch five,
then exit, then press the up arrow into level 4,.

next abs stering wheel alinment must be preformed,.

login 40168 and basic settings number 1, make sure wheel is straight on,

next turn everything off, then start car, done,

vtraudt

"drop in code like 29000" in the login screen whre 31564 normally goes?

Or where is the "code like 29000" to be entered?

After login, let sit in channel 0 for a few minutes? what should the 4 top value fields show?

"run through channels" without entering any values, or entering "402" for 1-4 and "01" for 5? Or entering desired values for the channels?

choptt

recode the level control modual from 25500 to 26600,. the go through and login then to the adapation, wait until feild 4 says ok.