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For all the Techies out there....yah or nay....CV joint mod (inner)

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Old 01-16-2007, 10:27 PM
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Default For all the Techies out there....yah or nay....CV joint mod (inner)

Would it work to cut a metal plate/ring and place it dead center over the inner CV, weld it onto the existing CV Ground plate and re-drill matching holes as needed? It would also ensure that the 3 center notches on the bottom of the CV going into the Gearbox flange will still maintain their function and keep the CV/axle centered.

From brief memory; view at the inner CV from the top (axle removed). The red colored outer star design would be covered with the metal ring (same thickness as ground plate of CV)

I think there are actually 8 holes (not really sure) but for the purpose of demonstration, this pic should do it.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24442/cv_joint_inner.jpg">
Old 01-16-2007, 10:36 PM
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Default Are you saying to make a spacer of known thickness and place it between mating surfaces?

Seriously, what you say doesn't sound bad. I just don't know the overall goal of what you're trying to do.

PS It's sales conference time. I just went out with the euros after drinking with the japanese. My liver hurts.
Old 01-17-2007, 05:17 AM
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Default You could call it a spacer like plate to mate the S4 Gearbox bolt pattern, but this one

would be mounted on top of the CV, the bottom of the CV has 3 notches which allow it to be centered onto the flange, that is another reason why this "Spacer" would have to slide over the CV.
Old 01-17-2007, 05:54 AM
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Default Would you be pushing the inner CV joint face closer to the wheel?

Or would the new mounting plate face be in the same postition as the old mouting plate face?
Old 01-17-2007, 06:19 AM
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Default No, it would not move any given distance from or to the wheel, the overall length of the axle will

remain untouched. This proposed plate would simply slide over the CV from the axle site, the existing bolt pattern would be ignored and new matching holes would be drilled thru the plate.

However, the bolts into the Gearbox would have to be just slightly longer to match the new thickness.

Just imagine the CV as a cylinder type of body, the new plate would slide over it dead center and welded over the existing plate. Before that I would mark the S4 bolt pattern and drill new holes.
Old 01-17-2007, 07:13 AM
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Default In theory it should work, concerns I would have:

What type of steel would you be using for this? The weld would be super critical because of the high stresses at that point. If you do weld to the CV joint any heat treatment to the joint would be gone which can affect the life and strength of the joint. Length and travel would remain unchanged so geometricly speaking it should work, but the devil is in the details of the welding.
I have broken enough custom half shafts (read home-built) and I have designed custom driveshafts parts that haven't failed but none have been on a daily driver street car, only custom built formula cars. It can be tricky. Also remember the part will have to be balanced when all done.
Have you exhausted the ar/S4 driveshaft flange compatability?
Old 01-17-2007, 07:42 AM
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Default Why not just change the output shaft flange on the trans???

It's held on with one bolt in the center.
Old 01-17-2007, 07:56 AM
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Default That is the $60.000 question; will the flange from a MT allroad fit the S4 Gearbox?

And more important, it's part of the tranny so I'm not even sure if anyone would actually part from it because the tranny would become kind of useless. Would you do such thing?
Old 01-17-2007, 08:03 AM
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Default Yep, there is no question that balacing the pieces would be a tricky task.

And the welds will have to be very precise; at this moment we still try to get allroad MT flanges but have no idea if they fit the S4 Gearbox. That would be really sweet if they match up because nothing else will have to be altered.

So what ever we try, it's going to be a unique fabrication effort.....but will it work?
Old 01-17-2007, 09:27 AM
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Default Won't know if it would work till you try it. And then it would also be a long

term trial at that as well. Not to mention if you ever have a bad inner joint you would have to customize it again.
Does the ar CV joint diameter match the S4 flange? Is there an orientation of ar CV joint that would allow you to just drill new holes to match the S4 flange?


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