ianjax

my coolant/water reached 225f while in the dash was starting overheat ! so the 225f its a normal temperature ?

AudiQC

To my humble point of view...if a motor is overheating (coolant/water) the motor oil temp will necessary be higher than normal. Is your car "realy" overheating ?? Is coolant/water boiling or give you signs or sounds of boiling while indicator say so??

ianjax

never saw any sign of boiling, highest temp that i let it go is one thick after half once and was no signs of boiling neither go close of 250 range... btw, forgot to mention that i DIDNT use heat air to let temp go down as i was using before flush the radiator ! after reaching the 221f it went down to 116/117f after moving and gauge went down slightly was well (barely noticeable ) so no matter what it was a huge improvement after radiator flus but still something there, either radiator no functional well or no overheating and maybe a gauge/temp sensor failure ?

silverd2

The boiling point of a proper coolant mix is WAY higher (270F +) than water's boiling point (212F or 100C) and even higher while under normal system pressure.

So looking for boiling coolant won't help much....while still sealed in, even very overheated coolant won't be boiling. A cap releasing coolant from a way overheated motor is not "boiling over", it is releasing pressure at a set level.

To "ianjax" :

I know this sounds excessive, but considering what a pain in the *** it is to get to these thermostats, did you check the new thermostat (dipped in boiling water) before you installed it? Believe it or not, I ALWAYS do...it's just a lousy 5 minutes over the stove, a drop in the bucket to the actual job.
It may be rare, but I've seen actual cases of failed thermostats right out of the box...the reason I do this pre-check EVERY time...just like I check the "bad" thermostat that came out, just to reassure myself that it was indeed the culprit.

I ask the above because you seem to be describing normal behavior for a bad thermostat. Every time I've had one go bad...my first test is heater on full with HVAC fan on full (which should lower temps) and using lower gears for higher rpms (forces a little coolant past even stuck thermostats and/or a little through the bleeder hole) which lowers temps to a little lesser degree, but does lower...Both these tests have pointed to a bad thermostat in my case, with my present and all past cars.

AudiQC

Again ! if a radiator is malfonctionning or is not cooling your coolant/water properly....the engine oil temp will raise easily over 245F in "normal" driving conditions...If i were you i would look at the coolant/water gauge sensor.

My last weekeng work (flushing and cleaning) really improve my radiator efficiency. My oil temp stay in normal range (100 to 115C or 212 to 240F) and my coolant/water gauge stick to 90C or 194F right on.....over a wide range of driving conditions with the AC on. My next test is to tow my Camping trailer ( almost 4000lb) on a hilly area and see how it react.....

ianjax

"silver" i didnt didnt check the thermostat before put it on and hate myself for that, specially after seeing that it was made in china (ECS) ! car is definitely had improved after changing thermostat and everything else but going from audiqc's numbers of 194f i am WAY OFF where i suppose to be so now thinking maybe a stuck or partially open thermostat ? still thinking about radiator or sensor AND or MAYBE the thermostat as well ! i really dont feel like doing the whole timing belt thing again unless i really need to ...

ianjax

"audiqc" glad to hear your work made a good improvement ! what were you reading water/coolant temp when overheating before ?

AudiQC

To Silverd2
When looking to a psychometric chart for water or for a coolant/water mix you will be able to fing the boiling points of the 2 liquids and at various pressures. And if your "Cap" is releasing some coolant/water mix vapor-water it is certainly "boiling" or close to boiling at a point and the pressure in the system is at or higher than 15psi. But yes the liquid temp will be a lot higher than 100C or 212F but if the temp goes up to 245F it will certainly boil and then raise the pressure inside the radiator up to or over 15psi. the Cap will than release the mixture......

ianjax

"silver" the heater and high rpm makes a lot sense and i had personally had to use this many times to lower temp ! today for example i didnt use the heat to low the temp and check how far it goes but definitely went lower on high rpms even while stopped in traffic but reving 2000/2300 rpm !

ianjax

"audiqc" i dont think i never let it goes around 245f, after all this started i kept driving and right when starts to overheat i put heat on and it went 3/4 once or twice but i was sure to keep one thick after half and sometimes even stop car and let it cool down so its hard to say if boil over not sure about the temp, do you remember or check your temp when yours was overheating ?