Any idea on car not starting but battery seems charged and alternator OK
#1
Any idea on car not starting but battery seems charged and alternator OK
I thought my battery was on the fritz. I was directed to a post on batteries and proceeded to go to Advanced Auto parts. They took the battery out and tested it. It seemed fine and was just a little under full charge. He stated the alternator was putting out proper voltage as well.
The car has had intermitten problems starting. The first time this happened was understandable since the kids left the dome light on. I noticed this days later resulting in a dead battery. Since then, no reason for the inability to start.
The car has had intermitten problems starting. The first time this happened was understandable since the kids left the dome light on. I noticed this days later resulting in a dead battery. Since then, no reason for the inability to start.
#2
When you say "not starting", what do you mean?
There are a number of processes that happen between inserting the key and the fuel igniting in the cylinder. Is the battery dead? Is the battery good, but ss there no sound when you turn the switch? Is there a click, but does the starter motor not engage? Does the starter motor engage and attempt to crank, but the engine won't turn over?
Just saying. As somewhat of an infamous motorhead, I get about one call a month from someone with the line, "My car won't start, what do you think the problem is?"
So I'm guessing the engine will crank, but it takes a while to catch and fire? I mean, is there any common thread to the phenomenon? Does it happen after sitting? Is there a check engine light?
PS I may be officially more addicted to AW than any other motorsports website right now. I think it's just because my main daytime activity is the turbo swap. I ... hope.
Just saying. As somewhat of an infamous motorhead, I get about one call a month from someone with the line, "My car won't start, what do you think the problem is?"
So I'm guessing the engine will crank, but it takes a while to catch and fire? I mean, is there any common thread to the phenomenon? Does it happen after sitting? Is there a check engine light?
PS I may be officially more addicted to AW than any other motorsports website right now. I think it's just because my main daytime activity is the turbo swap. I ... hope.
#4
The car will either barely turn over or just click. This doesn't do it
all the time. For example I installed the IceLink cable over the weekend and had the doors open for about an hour while I ran the cable. I then tried to start the car and it just clicked, but no engine turn.
I charged the battery for about 14 hours on an old trickle charger and then it fired up fine. The volt meter has been around 14, but I have noticed if I kick on the heat it dips for short bit and then climbs back to 14. When I say dips, it drops to around 13.
I charged the battery for about 14 hours on an old trickle charger and then it fired up fine. The volt meter has been around 14, but I have noticed if I kick on the heat it dips for short bit and then climbs back to 14. When I say dips, it drops to around 13.
#5
I saw your post stating that if over 3 years old then they are junk, but
not on how to test the battery. Advanced Auto pulled the battery and put it in a charger/test machine. It charged quickly and stated it was a good battery. According to the sales guy-it is able to determine if the battery should be good for a couple months and not showing any weakness. The guy could have had an easy sale, but told me not to replace it.
#6
Think it may be this post he is talking about which in is another thread.
<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/allroad/msgs/176080.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/allroad/msgs/176080.phtml</a</li></ul>
#7
Battery.
First off, your cheapest diagnostic, even cheaper than an hour in the shop for a lookover, is going to be component replacement in the form of a new battery.
Second off, batteries are funny. You can think you have a charge, they "test out" fine, and they're already on the way out.
Batteries are easy enough to replace. Grab your radio code (importante!), be aware you'll lose one touch up and down on your windows until you manually cycle each one, pay attention to the vent tube (for fumes) on removal and installation, and yank out that old battery.
Second off, batteries are funny. You can think you have a charge, they "test out" fine, and they're already on the way out.
Batteries are easy enough to replace. Grab your radio code (importante!), be aware you'll lose one touch up and down on your windows until you manually cycle each one, pay attention to the vent tube (for fumes) on removal and installation, and yank out that old battery.
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#8
possibilities:
1. Do you have a cell phone, sat radio, radar detector or similar that you might leave on? In a few days it will drain just enough to limit the start.
2. A single cell in the battery can be bad and in warm weather the car will start. In cold weather it won't. Some battery tests will not reveal this. Because you just drove the car and its fully charged enough to "fool" the system.
3. You could have loose terminal clamps. Not likely, but it does happen. Take a look and if they move with a turn of your hand, just tighten them.
2. A single cell in the battery can be bad and in warm weather the car will start. In cold weather it won't. Some battery tests will not reveal this. Because you just drove the car and its fully charged enough to "fool" the system.
3. You could have loose terminal clamps. Not likely, but it does happen. Take a look and if they move with a turn of your hand, just tighten them.
#9
Trango is correct. As a professional, I have seen this so many times, I replace ANY OEM battery
over 3 years old, when any starting or charging systems problems crop up. A battery is cheaper than an alternator, and if you insist on running a weak battery it WILL KILL the alternator.
#10
Not to disparage Advanced Auto, but their Techs are not going to be top of the line.
And if this was done by a guy behind the counter, His experience will be questionable. An 8 buck and hour counter guy, certainly will be less than experienced. If he was he would be making 20-30 as a line tech. Mass Mechandising auto places like PEP bros, Struass and the like are skimmers, they only do the very easy, highest profit stuff. Thier specialty is 10-20 year old cars that are looking for 29.95 brake jobs. Well I guess I did disparage them after all. Oh well, YOMV. (your opinion may vary)