Bought an Audi AllRoad 2 days ago! lots of problems! HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
05-20-2013, 02:38 PM
#11
Any platinum plug will work on the 2.7t as long as it is a NGK Laser Platinum PFR6Q.
For the OP you have either a massive boost leak as others have said, or one or both of your diverter valves is shot.
For the OP you have either a massive boost leak as others have said, or one or both of your diverter valves is shot.
05-22-2013, 10:49 PM
#12
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OP
Taking my car to Audi dealership tomorrow for two recalls.
1. Left Leadlight Socket Sensor
2. Fuel Tank Rollover Valve Nipple
That should help the car be in better condition. since i do have a problem with my fuel subject and my left headlight has problems.
after that i will investigate more into the turbo pipe leaks.
how ever I did a text on my car and came back with:
Fuel Injector #4 open circuit. replaced the fuel injector and plugged the socket back in.... and got a little more power but still have a major boost leak some where because all i hear is turbo spooling and barely any torque. Major vibrations at 40MPH and when I step on the gas pedal.
any more suggestions on possible fixes?
360-440-1998
1. Left Leadlight Socket Sensor
2. Fuel Tank Rollover Valve Nipple
That should help the car be in better condition. since i do have a problem with my fuel subject and my left headlight has problems.
after that i will investigate more into the turbo pipe leaks.
how ever I did a text on my car and came back with:
Fuel Injector #4 open circuit. replaced the fuel injector and plugged the socket back in.... and got a little more power but still have a major boost leak some where because all i hear is turbo spooling and barely any torque. Major vibrations at 40MPH and when I step on the gas pedal.
any more suggestions on possible fixes?
360-440-1998
05-23-2013, 06:05 AM
#13
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Taking my car to Audi dealership tomorrow for two recalls.
1. Left Leadlight Socket Sensor
2. Fuel Tank Rollover Valve Nipple
That should help the car be in better condition. since i do have a problem with my fuel subject and my left headlight has problems.
after that i will investigate more into the turbo pipe leaks.
how ever I did a text on my car and came back with:
Fuel Injector #4 open circuit. replaced the fuel injector and plugged the socket back in.... and got a little more power but still have a major boost leak some where because all i hear is turbo spooling and barely any torque. Major vibrations at 40MPH and when I step on the gas pedal.
any more suggestions on possible fixes?
360-440-1998
1. Left Leadlight Socket Sensor
2. Fuel Tank Rollover Valve Nipple
That should help the car be in better condition. since i do have a problem with my fuel subject and my left headlight has problems.
after that i will investigate more into the turbo pipe leaks.
how ever I did a text on my car and came back with:
Fuel Injector #4 open circuit. replaced the fuel injector and plugged the socket back in.... and got a little more power but still have a major boost leak some where because all i hear is turbo spooling and barely any torque. Major vibrations at 40MPH and when I step on the gas pedal.
any more suggestions on possible fixes?
360-440-1998
Forget your recalls, address the main problem first.
It COULD be something else, like bad injector(s), or ICMs, but get it diagnosed properly.
If there are no good independent Audi shops in the area, you may just pay the dealer to diagnose what the problem is. If he's too expensive for repairs, find a shop that can repair based on Audi dealer's diagnostics.
05-31-2013, 11:33 PM
#14
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Dude, don't drive your car with a boost leak, and certainly don't push it. All your symptoms are pointing to a boost leak, and if you can't diagnose yourself then drive MILDLY to the shop who can test it/diagnose it.
Forget your recalls, address the main problem first.
It COULD be something else, like bad injector(s), or ICMs, but get it diagnosed properly.
If there are no good independent Audi shops in the area, you may just pay the dealer to diagnose what the problem is. If he's too expensive for repairs, find a shop that can repair based on Audi dealer's diagnostics.
Forget your recalls, address the main problem first.
It COULD be something else, like bad injector(s), or ICMs, but get it diagnosed properly.
If there are no good independent Audi shops in the area, you may just pay the dealer to diagnose what the problem is. If he's too expensive for repairs, find a shop that can repair based on Audi dealer's diagnostics.
PLEASE HELP
05-31-2013, 11:43 PM
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HERE ARE THE FAULT CODES:
004.01 - CHECK EVENT MEMORY
18057 P1649
DATABUS DRIVETRAIN
MISSING MESSAGE FROM ABS CONTROL MODULE
16815 P0431
WARM UP CATALYST, BANK 2
EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD
17546 P1138
BANK 2 MIXTURE ADAPTION (ADD)
SYSTEM TOO LEAN
17544 P1136
BANK 1 MIXTURE ADAPTION (ADD)
SYSTEM TOO LEAN
17884 P1476
LEAK DIAGNOSIS PUMP - EVAP EMISSION CTRL SYSTEM
MALFUNCTION/VACUUM TO LOW
18010 P1602
POWER SUPPLY TERMINAL 30
VOLTAGE TOO LOW
16805 P0421
WARM UP CATALYST, BANK 1
EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD
17862 P1454
EXHAUST GAS TEMPERATURE SENSOR 1 -G235
SHORT CIRCUIT TO GROUND
17800 P1392
BANK 2 CAMSHAFT POS. SENSOR=>-G163
OPEN CIRCUIT/SHORT CIRCUIT TO B+
17119 P0735
GEAR 5
INCORRECT RATIO
18158 P1734
GEAR 4
INCORRECT RATIO
18158 P1750
VOLTAGE SUPPLY
VOLTAGE TOO LOW
004.01 - CHECK EVENT MEMORY
18057 P1649
DATABUS DRIVETRAIN
MISSING MESSAGE FROM ABS CONTROL MODULE
16815 P0431
WARM UP CATALYST, BANK 2
EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD
17546 P1138
BANK 2 MIXTURE ADAPTION (ADD)
SYSTEM TOO LEAN
17544 P1136
BANK 1 MIXTURE ADAPTION (ADD)
SYSTEM TOO LEAN
17884 P1476
LEAK DIAGNOSIS PUMP - EVAP EMISSION CTRL SYSTEM
MALFUNCTION/VACUUM TO LOW
18010 P1602
POWER SUPPLY TERMINAL 30
VOLTAGE TOO LOW
16805 P0421
WARM UP CATALYST, BANK 1
EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD
17862 P1454
EXHAUST GAS TEMPERATURE SENSOR 1 -G235
SHORT CIRCUIT TO GROUND
17800 P1392
BANK 2 CAMSHAFT POS. SENSOR=>-G163
OPEN CIRCUIT/SHORT CIRCUIT TO B+
17119 P0735
GEAR 5
INCORRECT RATIO
18158 P1734
GEAR 4
INCORRECT RATIO
18158 P1750
VOLTAGE SUPPLY
VOLTAGE TOO LOW
06-01-2013, 04:37 AM
#16
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HERE ARE THE FAULT CODES:
004.01 - CHECK EVENT MEMORY
18057 P1649
DATABUS DRIVETRAIN
MISSING MESSAGE FROM ABS CONTROL MODULE
16815 P0431
WARM UP CATALYST, BANK 2
EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD
17546 P1138
BANK 2 MIXTURE ADAPTION (ADD)
SYSTEM TOO LEAN
17544 P1136
BANK 1 MIXTURE ADAPTION (ADD)
SYSTEM TOO LEAN
17884 P1476
LEAK DIAGNOSIS PUMP - EVAP EMISSION CTRL SYSTEM
MALFUNCTION/VACUUM TO LOW
18010 P1602
POWER SUPPLY TERMINAL 30
VOLTAGE TOO LOW
16805 P0421
WARM UP CATALYST, BANK 1
EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD
17862 P1454
EXHAUST GAS TEMPERATURE SENSOR 1 -G235
SHORT CIRCUIT TO GROUND
17800 P1392
BANK 2 CAMSHAFT POS. SENSOR=>-G163
OPEN CIRCUIT/SHORT CIRCUIT TO B+
17119 P0735
GEAR 5
INCORRECT RATIO
18158 P1734
GEAR 4
INCORRECT RATIO
18158 P1750
VOLTAGE SUPPLY
VOLTAGE TOO LOW
004.01 - CHECK EVENT MEMORY
18057 P1649
DATABUS DRIVETRAIN
MISSING MESSAGE FROM ABS CONTROL MODULE
16815 P0431
WARM UP CATALYST, BANK 2
EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD
17546 P1138
BANK 2 MIXTURE ADAPTION (ADD)
SYSTEM TOO LEAN
17544 P1136
BANK 1 MIXTURE ADAPTION (ADD)
SYSTEM TOO LEAN
17884 P1476
LEAK DIAGNOSIS PUMP - EVAP EMISSION CTRL SYSTEM
MALFUNCTION/VACUUM TO LOW
18010 P1602
POWER SUPPLY TERMINAL 30
VOLTAGE TOO LOW
16805 P0421
WARM UP CATALYST, BANK 1
EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD
17862 P1454
EXHAUST GAS TEMPERATURE SENSOR 1 -G235
SHORT CIRCUIT TO GROUND
17800 P1392
BANK 2 CAMSHAFT POS. SENSOR=>-G163
OPEN CIRCUIT/SHORT CIRCUIT TO B+
17119 P0735
GEAR 5
INCORRECT RATIO
18158 P1734
GEAR 4
INCORRECT RATIO
18158 P1750
VOLTAGE SUPPLY
VOLTAGE TOO LOW
The ABS module needs to be repaired. If you can take it iff and then install it, the repair will be $180 via Module Masters.
You also need a new camshaft position sensor on the driver's side.
EGTs are a common failure on these engines, and both sensors cost about $450 from ECS Tuning. You could also get bungs that emulate EGT signal for something like $45, someone in the classifieds is making and selling them.
How old is your battery? It is possible either it or your alternator are going. Any hard starts? What does the voltage dial read in the instrument cluster when the engine is running?
The most disconcerting, though, are the transmission gears. It sounds like they are slipping, which cannot be good.
This could be why your car drives so poorly. You can do a test. Put the shifter into manual mode and don't go past gear #3. How does the car drive then? If clutches are slipping, you will need a new transmission or rebuild your existing one. Not cheap, i'm afraid.
Edit: since you also get codes for system too lean on both banks, i would still suspect a boost leak. Most common is the throttle body boot.
Others will chime in with more expertise.
Last edited by GTA_Driver; 06-01-2013 at 04:40 AM.
06-01-2013, 04:44 AM
#17
AudiWorld Super User
One other thing. Buy a $15 USB cable on eBay and download shareware version of VAG-COM / VCDS from Ross-Tech. You can then upgrade to full version for $130 or so if needed.
Just read that your voltage reads 14 on the gauge, which is good. Take the voltmeter to the battery.
Just read that your voltage reads 14 on the gauge, which is good. Take the voltmeter to the battery.
06-01-2013, 11:11 AM
#18
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You can ignore catalyst codes for now, they don't affect driveability.
The ABS module needs to be repaired. If you can take it iff and then install it, the repair will be $180 via Module Masters.
You also need a new camshaft position sensor on the driver's side.
EGTs are a common failure on these engines, and both sensors cost about $450 from ECS Tuning. You could also get bungs that emulate EGT signal for something like $45, someone in the classifieds is making and selling them.
How old is your battery? It is possible either it or your alternator are going. Any hard starts? What does the voltage dial read in the instrument cluster when the engine is running?
The most disconcerting, though, are the transmission gears. It sounds like they are slipping, which cannot be good.
This could be why your car drives so poorly. You can do a test. Put the shifter into manual mode and don't go past gear #3. How does the car drive then? If clutches are slipping, you will need a new transmission or rebuild your existing one. Not cheap, i'm afraid.
Edit: since you also get codes for system too lean on both banks, i would still suspect a boost leak. Most common is the throttle body boot.
Others will chime in with more expertise.
The ABS module needs to be repaired. If you can take it iff and then install it, the repair will be $180 via Module Masters.
You also need a new camshaft position sensor on the driver's side.
EGTs are a common failure on these engines, and both sensors cost about $450 from ECS Tuning. You could also get bungs that emulate EGT signal for something like $45, someone in the classifieds is making and selling them.
How old is your battery? It is possible either it or your alternator are going. Any hard starts? What does the voltage dial read in the instrument cluster when the engine is running?
The most disconcerting, though, are the transmission gears. It sounds like they are slipping, which cannot be good.
This could be why your car drives so poorly. You can do a test. Put the shifter into manual mode and don't go past gear #3. How does the car drive then? If clutches are slipping, you will need a new transmission or rebuild your existing one. Not cheap, i'm afraid.
Edit: since you also get codes for system too lean on both banks, i would still suspect a boost leak. Most common is the throttle body boot.
Others will chime in with more expertise.
I don't have trouble starting the car at all even if it sits for a day or 2.
volt gauge is always about 14
catalyst converters are giving codes because i put a straight pipe I'm guessing.
the problem is i cant even use tip tronic or lower gears in manual mode.... it wont let me. when i put the shifter to the right for that mode it just stays in drive mode.... automatic only.... could it be the TCU? (Transsmision Control Unit)?
06-01-2013, 11:13 AM
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One other thing. Buy a $15 USB cable on eBay and download shareware version of VAG-COM / VCDS from Ross-Tech. You can then upgrade to full version for $130 or so if needed.
Just read that your voltage reads 14 on the gauge, which is good. Take the voltmeter to the battery.
Just read that your voltage reads 14 on the gauge, which is good. Take the voltmeter to the battery.
im not sure i understand what you are saying in this post?
but i'm considering on buying a VAG - COM any suggestions on which version?
please send me eBay link of the best one for my problems?
thank you
06-01-2013, 11:16 AM
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No Boost leak in the Y pipe. but my MAF and plastic boot to the Y pipe connection isn't a 100%, the MAF clips are broken off so it just goes in and stays put but with a little of gap ... will that effect my car that HUGE?