Pchelka01

was just wondering if i could re-tension the tensioner? because after doing the timing belt, the crankshaft seal broke so i need to take it all off again to change it.

jamesm0913

I believe that you can, as long as you slowly release the tension on the belt when you compress it. I had mine all installed and realized that I did not replace one of the cam gear seals. So I took it all back apart to get to the seal and when I reinstalled the tensioner it seemed a bit loose and floppy for a second, but when I manually rotated the engine around 2 or 3 times it must have built up pressure because it was hard to compress again. I was worried for a bit that I'd have to buy another one, but I've been driving the car for 7500 miles now with no issues.

ezveedub

The hydraulic tensioner can be compressed several times for service work. The the timing belt is what you have to be cautious with when they get some mileage on them and must be installed back in the same direction it was running. If you just installed it, just proceed with the same TB procedure you did previously.

FYI, I hope you changed the hydraulic tensioner, as they can blow out when they get old.

Pchelka01

i did change the tensioner, and i did drive the car in total for about 50 miles, i will make a note in the direction of the belt, or maybe just get a new one.


couple more questions, anyone change the crank seal before? What should i prepare for? already got the 3/4 breaker bar and a 5 ft tube to unscrew the bolt,

last question, when i was doing the timing belt i had noticed a lot of trash under the manifold, so i got a long skinny tube and vacuumed as much as i could, and now i have a coolant leak, not sure where yet as i did not diagnose it yet, but at a quick glace looked like it was from the rear of the engine, Could i have damaged the auxilary coolant pump? And the thing that stumped me was that it started to leak only after the car was shut off, once its on, i could not see any leaks, over night i lost about 1/2 inch of coolant, any advice?

thejulex

very typical aux pump failure, only leaks when car is off during the cool down time when the pump actually works. The get brittle so I can imagine that you touching it with the tbue could potentially cause it to fail.

ezveedub

The timing belt is fine at 50 miles. Just compress the tensioner and remove the belt and note the direction it was running. As for the lower crank seal, its fairly easy to replace if you have proper tools. I plucked mine out with a pocket screw driver and a pick. Then install the new seal over the crank with the protector and use the old seal in reverse to drive the new seal into place (flip the old oil seal so inside it's facing out and mate the front of the old seal to the front of the new seal, then tap on the old seal to drive the new seal in). The seal I bought was Victor Reinz and it came with a seal installer/lip protector (seal is Teflon). Also make sure you get a new crank bolt. It's one time use only. You torque it to 200 Nm plus an additional 180° turn. Make sure you have the crank pin installed.

Part number for the seal is 038-103-085-E and the crank bolt is 078-105-229-D. Crank bolt is installed dry, with no oil. Seal is supposed to be dry also, but I apply oil to the oil of the seal to make installing is easier and apply a light coat of oil to the crank nose also. Not sure if you can find the Victor Reinz seal by part number (81-34366-00 K), but it is the OEM seal. ECS lists a crank seal, but its not the correct part number for a 2.7T engine is the old rubber seal for older engines, not the Teflon seal the 2.7T engine came with.

As for the coolant leak under the intake, sound like the coolant after-run pump for the turbos is leaking. Known issue on these engines.

Pchelka01

thanks guys for the quick reply, i really do appreciate your advice, and i do have a new crank bolt, and crank seal which i got from ecs (victor rienz), so this is the incorrect seal?

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-All_Ro.../Seal/ES11825/

ezveedub

By part number, yes, it's not the 2.7T crank seal. Will it fit, yes. It's the older style rubber seal from earlier engines that's easier for most to install. The original oil seals are Teflon lip seals and most people don't not how to install them properly and usually screw them up. Also, the Teflon seals cost a tad more. For me, they are no problem, but a lot of people don't like them. You can use the rubber seal from ECS and it will work just fine.