Climate control, A/C issue
#11
AudiWorld Super User
I will check tomorrow morning at work (left my laptop there). PM me directly to remind me, I'm in the EST zone.
#12
AudiWorld Super User
PM sent
#13
Here is a list of wiring diagrams I can print - any of any help?
Air conditioner with automatic control (externally controlled compressor) - 2.5 litre engine - BAU,
Iage 2: Control and display unit for air conditioner1
Page 3: Vent temperature sender, fresh air blower, solar roof
Page 4: mbient temperature sensor, fresh air intake duct temperature sensor, sunlight penetratic
Page 5: Air recirculation flap control motor, control motor for right temperature flap, vent temr
Page 6: Control motors, potentiometers
Page 7: Control and display unit for air conditioner, engine cooling for 2.0 litre engines - ALT
Page 8: Illumination for dash panel vents
Page 9: Radiator fan run-on relay, radiator fan 2nd speed relay, radiator fan relay, radiator far
Page 10: Radiator fan thermo-switches, high pressure sender
Air conditioning system with automatic control (internally controlled compressor) 2.5 litre engine
Air conditioner with automatic control (externally controlled compressor) - 2.5 litre engine - BAU,
Iage 2: Control and display unit for air conditioner1
Page 3: Vent temperature sender, fresh air blower, solar roof
Page 4: mbient temperature sensor, fresh air intake duct temperature sensor, sunlight penetratic
Page 5: Air recirculation flap control motor, control motor for right temperature flap, vent temr
Page 6: Control motors, potentiometers
Page 7: Control and display unit for air conditioner, engine cooling for 2.0 litre engines - ALT
Page 8: Illumination for dash panel vents
Page 9: Radiator fan run-on relay, radiator fan 2nd speed relay, radiator fan relay, radiator far
Page 10: Radiator fan thermo-switches, high pressure sender
Air conditioning system with automatic control (internally controlled compressor) 2.5 litre engine
#14
Very strange things happening, there are 3 wires coming up to the ac pressure switch, (brown) which is ground and works fine, I checked with multimeter, (gray and red) which is the voltage, for some reason The voltage goes up and down and than stays at around 30 dc volts!? When I bring up the windows to lower the voltage, it goes up to 33 volts instead, strange! I've checked continuity till the wires go in the fender and into the car, continuity is good... Please in need of advise!
#15
Update;
Finally' cold air!! Wow I did the timing belt on the AR and this was nothing compared to it in job difficulty wise, what a relief! Thanks to all that helped ,
It ended up being a couple of wires that were either ripped, burned and just not connected , I really did rip the drivers area apart just to get to the wires, don't know why this would happen, except if someone screwed with it, anyways will put it back together Tom. And finally drive with the windows up!
Finally' cold air!! Wow I did the timing belt on the AR and this was nothing compared to it in job difficulty wise, what a relief! Thanks to all that helped ,
It ended up being a couple of wires that were either ripped, burned and just not connected , I really did rip the drivers area apart just to get to the wires, don't know why this would happen, except if someone screwed with it, anyways will put it back together Tom. And finally drive with the windows up!
#16
AudiWorld Super User
Update;
Finally' cold air!! Wow I did the timing belt on the AR and this was nothing compared to it in job difficulty wise, what a relief! Thanks to all that helped ,
It ended up being a couple of wires that were either ripped, burned and just not connected , I really did rip the drivers area apart just to get to the wires, don't know why this would happen, except if someone screwed with it, anyways will put it back together Tom. And finally drive with the windows up!
Finally' cold air!! Wow I did the timing belt on the AR and this was nothing compared to it in job difficulty wise, what a relief! Thanks to all that helped ,
It ended up being a couple of wires that were either ripped, burned and just not connected , I really did rip the drivers area apart just to get to the wires, don't know why this would happen, except if someone screwed with it, anyways will put it back together Tom. And finally drive with the windows up!
#17
I followed the wires from the ac pressure sensor all the way into the car, it goes in the driver fender and comes out under the area where the relays are , far left, driver's side, anyways the whole wire was cooked, got a new wire from there to the sensor, also the outside temp started to work, the after run pump started to work and both electrical fans, ( only the clutch fan worked before) I'm very satisfied with the car now
#19
Replace G65 Pressure Sensor!
You'll get random even permanent ECON light, when this part fails. Easy to replace - and no refrigerant needs to be discharged. Remove passenger headlight...and it's RIGHT THERE underneath it, next to the A/C Condenser. A 15min job, at worst.
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Davemc1948 (04-06-2022)
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