clutch seems FUBAR
10-31-2006, 07:18 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
clutch seems FUBAR
on this mornings drive into work, after a brief stop for gas, the clutch is behaving very weird. it became very difficult to push in the clutch pedal, and the clutch seems to engage at the top of it's travel.
to me those don't sound like symptoms of a slipping clutch. what could this be? bad master cylinder? any ideas about what those run $$$?
to me those don't sound like symptoms of a slipping clutch. what could this be? bad master cylinder? any ideas about what those run $$$?
10-31-2006, 07:25 AM
#3
I'm no Audi clutch expert, but...
...in general hydraulic clutch terms, it sounds more like something has gone wrong with the TO bearing/PP interface.
If the MC or the slave cyl. was going, it's more likely that that the clutch would not disengage and you'd have trouble getting in or out of gear.
If the MC or the slave cyl. was going, it's more likely that that the clutch would not disengage and you'd have trouble getting in or out of gear.
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10-31-2006, 09:01 AM
#8
Either that or TO bearing...
...it sounds, man, like the mechanism that pushes your clutch down works "too well", whether that is in the hydralics, or the mechanical interface between the throwout bearing and pressureplate fingers.
I have all of these parts right now in my office, and if you want, I can take some photos to elucidate the throwout bearing and pressureplate components.
Oh yeah, and your clutch isn't slipping. Mine is, and while there is high engagement, the pedal should feel the same, since it's the same hydraulics pushing against the same throwout bearing and the same springs in the pressure plate. My clutch is slipping at WOT right now, which is precisely why I have this big South Bend box on my desk today.
I have all of these parts right now in my office, and if you want, I can take some photos to elucidate the throwout bearing and pressureplate components.
Oh yeah, and your clutch isn't slipping. Mine is, and while there is high engagement, the pedal should feel the same, since it's the same hydraulics pushing against the same throwout bearing and the same springs in the pressure plate. My clutch is slipping at WOT right now, which is precisely why I have this big South Bend box on my desk today.
10-31-2006, 09:02 AM
#9
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My money goes on the TO bearing and/or ...
... half-broken fork.
Does the clutch pedal wobble under the foot when half depressed? Do you hear any humming or roaring noise?
Typically the powdered clutch disk lining material would build-up on the primary shaft splines and eventually would start interferring with the TO bearing's free travel. If you remove the bearing now you are likely to see that it has turned blue due to overheating and is hard to pivot.
In my Audis it was always the TO bearing that would give in first.
At any rate, judging by the simptoms the TO bearing, the disk, and the pressure plate are due for replacement. Pay a lot now, or much more later after your TO bearing seazes up. I hope you know how to drive the car in traffic w/o the clutch.
The clutch replacement on a quattro is so labour intensive (the last time it took me ca. 10 hours) that I would strongly reccommend replacing the primary shaft bearing for the transmission, the guide sleeve, and the rear main seal in the engine at the same time.
Does the clutch pedal wobble under the foot when half depressed? Do you hear any humming or roaring noise?
Typically the powdered clutch disk lining material would build-up on the primary shaft splines and eventually would start interferring with the TO bearing's free travel. If you remove the bearing now you are likely to see that it has turned blue due to overheating and is hard to pivot.
In my Audis it was always the TO bearing that would give in first.
At any rate, judging by the simptoms the TO bearing, the disk, and the pressure plate are due for replacement. Pay a lot now, or much more later after your TO bearing seazes up. I hope you know how to drive the car in traffic w/o the clutch.
The clutch replacement on a quattro is so labour intensive (the last time it took me ca. 10 hours) that I would strongly reccommend replacing the primary shaft bearing for the transmission, the guide sleeve, and the rear main seal in the engine at the same time.
