DRL - Fogs Active
#1
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UteZwei posted great instructions on the DRL wiring using the front fogs when key is hot. They work well and people see you coming better at high speed instead of using the xenons as DRLs shortening their life. Ran into a snag.
Removing fuse #36 and tapping into the switched aux power lug on the far left under the lower valance with a 15A inline fuse holder and joining it with a blown fuse and tap on the feed side causes on board diagnostics to complain and beep that a fuse has blown. put the regular fuse back in and all is fine. tried using a non blown fuse and the inline fuse blew.
Did the headlight switch tap easily. Everything works but the diagnostics complain of the blown fuse hookup. does the warning go away after a while? try another tap somewhere? pull the diagnostics fuse? Thx
2004 atlas grey
foglight circuit is powered through the headlight circuit, which is why even with the
Posted by: UteZwei on 2007-11-12 16:27:20
Account #: 125199
foglight switch permanently engaged (per previous instructions), the fogs won't light until the low beams are on. You need to supply power to the foglight circuit, which is #36 on the fusebox. There are excellent instructions on how to do this on the A6 board (see link). The only thing I did differently from the A6 instructions is to connect to the large orange switched auxiliary power lug underneath the steering column. My car didn't have an obviously unused circuit in the fusebox and I didn't want to experiment so I went through the small additional work of removing the lower dashboard to access the aux switched power lug. I used a Radio Shack 12GA inline fuse holder to make the connection which turned out to be the perfect length. I soldered a round lug to the aux power end and soldered the other end to the left leg (front of the car when installed) of a blown fuse for the fusebox end. I used a blown fuse for the connection to the fusebox because it was free and a very reliable connection. A blade adaptor can be used as well but I think the blown fuse is best. It's important to ensure that the fuse is burned. I made sure to remove all the fusible link with a small screwdriver. I used the original 15A fuse in the inline holder.
That's probably not as clear as it could be. I'm happy to clarify if required.
Congratulations on your new car; great colour. Mine's an 04 Cobalt Blue as well.
https://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec43.shtml
Removing fuse #36 and tapping into the switched aux power lug on the far left under the lower valance with a 15A inline fuse holder and joining it with a blown fuse and tap on the feed side causes on board diagnostics to complain and beep that a fuse has blown. put the regular fuse back in and all is fine. tried using a non blown fuse and the inline fuse blew.
Did the headlight switch tap easily. Everything works but the diagnostics complain of the blown fuse hookup. does the warning go away after a while? try another tap somewhere? pull the diagnostics fuse? Thx
2004 atlas grey
foglight circuit is powered through the headlight circuit, which is why even with the
Posted by: UteZwei on 2007-11-12 16:27:20
Account #: 125199
foglight switch permanently engaged (per previous instructions), the fogs won't light until the low beams are on. You need to supply power to the foglight circuit, which is #36 on the fusebox. There are excellent instructions on how to do this on the A6 board (see link). The only thing I did differently from the A6 instructions is to connect to the large orange switched auxiliary power lug underneath the steering column. My car didn't have an obviously unused circuit in the fusebox and I didn't want to experiment so I went through the small additional work of removing the lower dashboard to access the aux switched power lug. I used a Radio Shack 12GA inline fuse holder to make the connection which turned out to be the perfect length. I soldered a round lug to the aux power end and soldered the other end to the left leg (front of the car when installed) of a blown fuse for the fusebox end. I used a blown fuse for the connection to the fusebox because it was free and a very reliable connection. A blade adaptor can be used as well but I think the blown fuse is best. It's important to ensure that the fuse is burned. I made sure to remove all the fusible link with a small screwdriver. I used the original 15A fuse in the inline holder.
That's probably not as clear as it could be. I'm happy to clarify if required.
Congratulations on your new car; great colour. Mine's an 04 Cobalt Blue as well.
https://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec43.shtml
#4
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<ul><li><a href="http://www.allroadfaq.com/downloads/mods/foglight_mod.pdf">http://www.allroadfaq.com/downloads/mods/foglight_mod.pdf</a</li></ul>
#6
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Yes, will try your instructions today with the Autozone tap. did tap the right feed side of #36. also did the headlight switch tap so low beams and fogs are on too automatically. thx
#7
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The 10 amp fuse will blow if the emergency flashers are used while fogs are on. I built my own jumper with 15 amp wire and socket.
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#8
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Yes, I noticed that too. I still put it in using two 15A fuses and it works fine, but will upgrade it later. NAPA didn't have a 15A version either. Will build one. No more diagnostic beeps! I used the backup light hot on key fuse and jumped it to the fogs fuse using a blown fuse. I used the backup light and fogs together and the fuses didn't pop. Using the headlight switch tap too so when the key is on, fogs are on for DRLs. Thanks!
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