Sarge

I began discussing the options with Mark after getting the car. I drove it for a month or so and had the dealer do a full inspection to make sure the 'foundation' was in perfect health, then sent it to ASP on 1/23/07.

Sarge

As I have sought counsel to represent my interests in this matter, and he has left messages with you that have gone unreturned for months, you should call him first.

That I've only now earned your response by way of this exceptionally unfortunate publicity speaks volumes of the sincerity behind of your feigned concern above. Your concern is for your reputation, and your reputation ONLY. THAT is all too clear, else you would have returned phone calls from two months ago, where you knew I had express concerns with both the shipping and the performance of the car. Yet you ignored it all, as usual. Any customer in my shoes would be just as disgusted and infuriated.

You have repeatedly made promises which I can only regard as lies at this point. Never mind the constant excuses PRIOR to the first delivery; Last year at this time you had promised to have the problems fixed 'hopefully by Christmas, but end of the year at the latest'. Maybe I misunderstood you; Did you mean end of 2007, or 2008?

Months went by after that with no responses to my inquiries. You completed others' Stage III+ cars from start to finish while my car and the roughly $54,000 I paid you sat there in your possession.

I am compelled to point out a few things in your response, which are quite illustrative of the level of attention you've paid to this car. To start with, let's look at those photos you posted (which you promised to send when shipping the car, but have just now shown me for the first time).

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434139428_HMMyT-X2.jpg">

EXIF Data: 9/22/2008 Autospeed Performance, Cinnaminson, NJ Photo provided by Autospeed

Note the right side exhaust tip is totally black, the left side tip is partially black. The left rear wheel is fairly clean, in the next photo the right rear wheel is clean on the face, but the indented areas are black with grit.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434139419_hqgux-X2.jpg">

9/22/2008 (EXIF Data) Autospeed Performance, Cinnaminson, NJ Photo provided by Autospeed

Not coincidentally, my mechanic, on 12/05/08 noted that the right rear pad was down to metal on metal, and the rotor was worn past the 'slotting' lines, where the left rear brake still had the slots showing on the rotor and a little pad life remaining, though not much. This also would explain why the car has felt unstable on hard braking - squirrely in the rear - and it felt as if the ABS was kicking in far too early. The rear brakes (S4 calipers with A8 rotors) were installed by Autospeed, sometime in the previous 5,000 miles, 4,000 of which were put on by them. In most cars, rear pads and rotors last many tens of thousands of miles, because the rear brakes don't really do much work. Here, the 6 pot Stoptech front brakes should allow the rears quite a long life. If the system was engineered installed properly, that is.

<b>MARK: How did this problem with your brakes escape your expert attention? </b>I noted there were brake problems after the first failed delivery, and even asked you if the Stoptechs needed a bigger brake booster, they felt so underwhelming. I'm no brake expert, but given the rear wear and the subpar performance, it's seems like maybe a different bias valve or other such things should have been considered, in addition to whatever is causing the L/R rear bias to apparently be off. In any event, it clearly wasn't any more '100% right' when it was in NJ than it is now.

As for the exhaust tips, and one side being even blacker than the other, the mechanic noted on our short test drive that 'the bulk of the turbo squealing noise seems to be coming out of the right side'.

Funny, I hadn't considered it until I examined the photo you posted, but sure enough, the right exhaust tip is blacker than the left.

<A HREF="http://www.sargentschutt.com/gallery/6792915_cnCvz#434114828_eer3k-A-LB">Click here to play the video</A>
<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434114828_eer3k-M.jpg">

That's certainly consistent with the last time I saw the car, after driving it about 1,000 miles from NJ to NC. It's pretty clear in this video that more smoke was emanating from the same right tip than the left.

<A HREF="http://www.sargentschutt.com/gallery/6792915_cnCvz#434426007_yxzDi-A-LB">Click here to play the video</A>
<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434426007_yxzDi-M.jpg">

The next photo was taken where the car sat with its flat tire at the delivery site, about a week or so after your photos were taken.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434172230_ciEYe-X2.jpg">

Note the thick buildup of brake grit on the wheel 'lip' area, the shiny 'metal on metal' groove at the edge of the rotor, and the black right side exhaust tip.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434201388_js5sS-X2.jpg">

(The other side, after changing the flat.)

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434200438_bqEQn-X2.jpg">

As is evident in these photos, only one of the four wheels has the thick black grit on it - and by no coincidence that is the only wheel where the pad was down to metal on metal. I also have a problem with no power assist in the brakes, generally only within the first mile or so of driving. It's intermittent, I just have to stay prepared for it.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434199548_6KEnj-M.jpg">

10/13/2008
42,052 miles
71 miles after 2nd delivery

6 days, 71 miles after taking delivery, the low oil light had come on. Unfortunately I didn't get a photo of the light because when I got home, shut the car off, and turned it back on, the light went out. Nevertheless, I checked the oil and had to add two quarts to bring the dipstick level again. See the following photos and video.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434199478_8JaYv-M.jpg">

As you can see, I've wiped the dipstick clean and stuck it back in to get an accurate reading of the oil level, and it is barely registering on the dipstick.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434199319_TDcFe-M.jpg">

Same time as the above photo, just a little different angle, to be sure the dry/wet line is visible. Did I push the dipstick in all the way? Yes:

<A HREF="http://sargentschutt.smugmug.com/gallery/6792915_cnCvz#434443790_ihgMc-A-LB">Click here to play the video</A>
<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434443790_ihgMc-M.jpg">


<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434198652_6xpHX-M.jpg">

First sliced Pirelli

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434198234_E9XTU-M.jpg">

Second sliced Pirelli

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434198475_WaYii-M.jpg">

Chunk out of a wheel (fresh)

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434197079_sk7Pt-M.jpg">

This was the 'dirty' wheel, which also has fresh curb rash.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434196448_eCErx-M.jpg">

10/14/2008
42,054 miles
73 miles after 2nd delivery

The above was my first 'limp mode experience'.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434195871_25btY-M.jpg">

10/14/2008
42,054 miles
73 miles after 2nd delivery

I couldn't find my Mobil 1 at home the previous evening, so the oil was still low. I had driven down and filled up the tank with premium Chevron and took some slightly better photos.

Note here the dipstick has been cleaned and dried, in the next photo it's fully inserted, and then the following photo it's removed to show clearly how low the level is.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434194697_cSEbb-M.jpg">

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434193543_bpKXj-X2.jpg">

The oil barely registered on the bottom of the stick, just 73 miles after the second delivery.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434191665_mDdzT-M.jpg">

And here it is after adding two quarts of Mobil 1. Note that I have started the car and let it run for a few seconds to ensure an accurate reading on the dipstick.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434192599_8fx7U-M.jpg">

10/14/2008
42,054 miles
73 miles after 2nd delivery

This is the relatively less sooty left side exhaust tip. Didn't think to take a photo of the dirtier right side tip at the time, but you can see it from the video above taken the day I received the car.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434191394_dS3KY-M.jpg">

I slid this cardboard under the motor in the garage. After several days, there was still not a drop of oil leaked anywhere. In other words, as is fairly obvious, the oil was being burned and exiting the tailpipe.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434189782_kiw7j-M.jpg">

10/17/2008
42,115 miles
134 miles after delivery

Engine has again gone into limp mode. I had taken it out a little ways out of town to test it and see how it was running, etc. Full throttle acceleration was sometimes successful, sometimes not, there were occasionally surging and 'blow-off valve' type noises when testing the acceleration starting at low speeds, and attempting mild/moderate acceleration from taller gears at higher speeds (i.e. mainly 'highway cruising' speeds) would generate 'bucking' or detonation, triggering limp mode.


<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434186341_3EPyZ-M.jpg">

10/26/2008
42,248 miles
267 miles after delivery
133 miles since last topping off the oil

The check engine light has been on since the fist drive, as you can also see in the photo at 42,052 miles. It did go off once, after a really loud engine backfire, but then came back on within a mile or two. Sometimes the CEL flashes before it goes into limp mode, sometimes it goes into limp mode without the CEL flashing.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434188835_uMiFQ-M.jpg">

10/26/2008
42,248 miles
267 miles after delivery
133 miles since last topping off the oil

I checked the oil again at about a half tank, and as you can see it's low again.

The next two photos are of the 'full' and 'empty' quart of Mobil 1 I had to add to bring it level again. I wouldn't have thought it would take a full quart to fill it, but it did. It might have something to do with the configuration of the extra oil cooler, or maybe this is the normal amount to add at this reading.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434188600_UyhCw-M.jpg"> <img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434187924_WksyF-M.jpg">

And below is the reading, full again:

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434187249_Bo7oL-M.jpg">

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434185550_GSveC-M.jpg">

10/26/2008
42,248 miles
267 miles after delivery
133 miles since last topping off the oil
2 miles after polishing the exhaust tip

Here's the passenger side exhaust tip about 2 miles after polishing it with metal polish. Blackness from burning oil is quickly reforming.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434184601_sUENx-M.jpg">

11/27/2008
42,889 miles
908 miles after delivery

about 40 minutes or so into my second road trip, driving approximately 300 miles from Jackson, WY to Salt Lake City over Thanksgiving.

The car is in 'limp mode' again, after trying to pass a car on a long straight stretch of empty, rural Wyoming Highway 89. With 500+ horsepower, no need to downshift to safely pass, right? Actually no. Because going into 'limp mode' while passing is not safe; Unless the car is downshifted to fourth gear and pushed at wide open throttle, it can't accelerate without risk of limp mode. Accelerating lightly at this speed, there are no guarantees the engine won't cut out.

So, not only does one look and feel like a 'jerk' while trying to execute what should be a very safe, casual passing maneuver, but also gritting teeth and wondering 'how long before I'm walking', and need a ride from the guy I just passed in my oil-burning stinkpot? (People have commented that driving behind my car is horrible, because of the smell of burning synthetic oil).

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434183722_3efKM-M.jpg">

11/27/2008
42,889 miles
909 miles after delivery

In order to get the motor out of 'limp mode' (previous photo), the ignition must be fully recycled once, and then again to get the remaining 'suspension malfunction' light to go out (and whatever else that controls).

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434181911_UhjwS-M.jpg">

11/30/2008
43,186 miles
1,205 miles after delivery

North of Salt Lake City, returning to Jackson WY I'd stopped to fill up with gas and, invariably, oil. Here it is again, needing almost two quarts to top it off again.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434182796_ix9P8-M.jpg">

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434181331_fStSt-M.jpg">

I drive around with zip lock bags full of oil, a funnel, and paper towels sliding around in the rear cargo area. Doesn't everyone?

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434180286_2AE2Z-M.jpg">

Note that the dipstick has BROKEN from over-use. That's a 'first'.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434180012_HoMkb-M.jpg">

After adding one full quart I was only up to the half way mark. It took almost the whole second quart to top it off.

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434179062_EoQsU-M.jpg">

<img src="http://www.sargentschutt.com/photos/434178879_TGQjA-M.jpg">

This is what was left of the second quart once it was topped off.

For those of you following along: Imagine going through this every time you stop to fill your car up with gas!? In Jackson, Mobil 1 is $8/qt, to boot.

At this point I'd stopped taking photos of every single event of low oil, engine in limp mode event, etc, as it happens with regularity and it's already annoying enough to fill the oil every tank, much less document it with photos and video. I'd also realized that I would have to give the car to a certified mechanic for a full test, evaluation, and documentation to corroborate the present condition.

After returning from this trip I took it in for service, where it remains today. So far they haven't even driven it because they're waiting for rear brake parts before it will be safe to test and further diagnose. The mechanic did note while on our initial test drive that the right side turbo seems to be making the majority of the squealing noises, which by no coincidence is the side of the car with the sootier tail pipe, and which the 2007 video, taken after the first delivery, shows to be blowing the most smoke as well.

Clearly, from the condition the car was in when I last drove it in 2007, the majority of the serious problems remain the same.

<b>To wit, below is the list of problems I sent to you after the first delivery last year. Items # 1-4, 8 &amp;9 still exist, mostly the same as before.</b>

Mark,

Below is the same list I sent to you earlier, but I have added 'UPDATE 1 and UPDATE 2' sections to make additional notes I forgot to include earlier. I will make additional updates as I recall/encounter further issues. (I will also print a copy of this for Rich.)

<b>1. OIL CONSUMPTION: </b>

SYMPTOM: One quart of oil is consumed with each tank of gas under light load highway cruising conditions with a handful of 'one gear' speed bursts (i.e. passing) per tank.

CIRCUMSTANCE: Generally fuel economy is in the 20-23 mpg range, so this is truly 'light load' driving. Consumption is roughly one quart of oil per 400 miles under those conditions.

DIAGNOSIS: Internal. The car shows no signs of any leaks, but the rear of the car was covered with sooty oil-stained particulate after those first two tanks of gas (I washed it yesterday, and it was not easy getting the rear clean). Below 'bucking' issues cannot be 'helpful' to whatever is causing this.

SOLUTION: Engine tear down and reassembly?

UPDATE 2: Engine blows blue smoke on startup. Amount of blue smoke depends on how hard it was driven prior to shut-down and length of time it was turned off. First noticed Saturday AM (11/24) after spending Friday in mixed town and highway driving around Myrtle Beach. Driving included 'lugging around town' and a few miles of high speed testing to search out issues/odd behaviors at higher speeds. Saturday AM car required 1.5 qts of oil at fill up (Tank was empty at beginning of Saturday). End of day saturday (drove 300 miles in 5 hours from Myrtle Beach, SC to Tryon, NC) filled car up with gas and added another quart of oil. Sunday car was driven very very lightly (carting my age 60+ parents around local Tryon area back mountain roads). Clouds of blue smoke at start-up each time. The longer the car sat, the more smoke, but there was always an acrid smell of burt oil in the car immediately following startup, even if the wind was blowing the exhaust away from the car. Car also 'ticked' on startup, sounded like an exhaust manifold leak or lifter, mostly like exhaust. Disappears when warm.


<b>2. LIGHT THROTTLE MODULATION: </b>

SYMPTOM: The car bucks relatively violently when using light throttle modulation in 5th/6th gear highway cruising.

CIRCUMSTANCE: Only apparent when modulating the throttle to make small increases in speed, i.e. to accelerate slowly from 70-75, 75-80, etc. "bucking" happens when reducing throttle pressure, i.e. as the desired 'new speed' is almost reached (e.g. easing off the throttle, but not removing foot from throttle completely). It is a transitionary stage problem, and the problem is not perceptible if you 'snap' your foot off the throttle.

UPDATE 1: I would modify the above CIRCUMSTANCE to say "attempting to transition from a steady (low) speed to 'smoothly' accelerating in approximate 10 mph increments in either 5th or 6th gear at roughly 10-20% throttle, at start speeds anywhere from 60 to 90 mph (to increase to speeds approx 10 mph faster, e.g. 60 to target 70 (or 75) to 90 to 100). Initial throttle application is fine; the bucking starts when trying to smoothly transition off the throttle to maintain the new cruise speed. If, instead of smoothly reducing throttle pressure, the driver 'snaps' off the throttle and reapplies to maintain the higher speed, the bucking is avoided.

DIAGNOSIS: Stalling turbos, MAF, ECU limitations?

SOLUTION:

<b>3. FULL THROTTLE (ISSUE 1; Gears 2-4):</b>

SYMPTOM: Issue 1 involves anything from 2nd gear to 4th gear. If the car is placed in gear at around 2k RPM, or is quickly downshifted from larger gear at 3k rpm (roughly) and full throttle immediately applied, the car 'chokes off' early and acceleration stops as early as 5k rpm. To the passenger, it feels like the driver lifted off the throttle completely. Sometimes it will 'pull through' the 'stall', sometimes it just feels like it's stumbling but still accelerating, other times it just stops accelerating completely. Sometimes the check engine light will flash (it's been on since NJ). You cannot hear the 'pulsating squeal' of stalling compressors that you hear in 5th-6th gear full throttle.

CIRCUMSTANCE: I've noticed this the majority of the time I've tried to pull out onto rural highways from side streets/parking lots, etc. I've taken friends/family for rides, made U-turns and slowly eased onto the throttle in 2nd gear after 'straightening' the car out, much the way an airline pilot rolls out onto a runway and straightens the aircraft before applying throttle, i.e. the rpms are 'up' around 2500-3500 for a couple seconds before full throttle is applied.

UPDATE 1: ESP is always off for this. Full throttle application in any given gear is frequently problematic. Chances are you will experience problems from minor to severe, although sometimes it accelerates hard and flawlessly. Most times it stumbles mid way through the tach range at some point. Sometimes it blows through the stumbling and proceeds strongly, sometimes it seems to shut down the throttle, other times the throttle continues but there seems to be a complete loss of boost but it still accelerates like a 3.0L might (sans turbos). It did shut down completely one time in 4th gear after accelerating hard through 3rd gear, requiring a 'restart' of the engine. When the engine 'dies' many of the dash lights come on, including the suspension error light (orange light of car with arrows pointing up and down). Also, with the car in neutral but prior to recycling the ignition key, the tach just bounces at the 1k level, but is unresponsive to throttle inputs and seems not to even be turning over (maybe the tach is programmed to do this as an 'error' signal, and the engine is not turning at all).

DIAGNOSIS: Stalling turbos, MAF, ECU limitations?

SOLUTION:

<b>4. FULL THROTTLE (ISSUE 2; Gears 5-6):</b>

SYMPTOM: Anything more than brief partial throttle application in gears 5-6 results in pusating turbo squeal (e.g. compressor stalling), even at high speeds. Sometimes the engine will stall/die completely and require the ignition be turned off and the car restarted, only under full throttle applications in the 5k-7k rpm range.

CIRCUMSTANCE: The engine died/stalled completely while accelerating at full throttle in 5th gear at approximately 140 mph. This was after running up to approx 7k rpm in 4th and shifting to 5th. Only way to regain power is to turn off the ignition for a second and restart the car. I probably don't need to state the seriousness of this situation at high speed.

DIAGNOSIS: Stalling turbos, MAF, ECU limitations?

SOLUTION:

UPDATE 2: There is definitely a speed limiter kicking in at 135. Also, the car can only accelerate in 6th gear for a couple seconds before there is 'compressor stalling' (pulsing 'squeal' noise). Same applies for 5th. It doesn't much matter if you use full throttle or partial throttle - as little as approx 30% - the car starts bucking after a couple seconds unless it's very minimal throttle input, or if you release and reapply for a couple more seconds. Car has also gone to limp mode or 'died' while accelerating only moderately in gears 5 or 6 at higher rpms at higher speed (100+).

<b>5. LOW OIL PRESSURE LIGHT</b>

SYMTPOM: "Low Oil Pressure" warning indicator illuminates and beeps intermittently when driving at low speeds at low rpms.

CIRCUMSTANCE: When driving at low speeds (generally below 25mph) at low rpms (generally below 2k rpm) the light comes on. Driving in bumper to bumper traffic on the Wednesday before Thanksgiving was a migraine-inducing treat as the warning squealed off and on through hours of slow moving stop and go slow traffic. Also happens when pulling off main roads into 'neighbor hood' roads (i.e. 25 mph or less). Results in explaining to every passenger that my $50k motor is actually not about to blow up.

DIAGNOSIS: Factory oil pressure sensor not compatible with auxiliary oil cooler.

SOLUTION:

<b>6. CLUTCH TAKE-UP </b>

SYMPTOM: Clutch take-up is extremely awkward, and partial power engagement (clutch disengagement technically) sometimes occurs when car is positioned slightly 'uphill'.

CIRCUMSTANCE: Parking garages, parking ingress/egress ramps, etc. Only noticeable in 1st gear. Often comes and goes - i.e. on initially bringing the clutch up to the 'real' beginning of the drivetrain engagement point it is noticeable, but pumping the clutch back down and repeating does not illicit the same symptom. (I can't wait to try to pull my boat out of the water).

DIAGNOSIS: Throw-out bearing design or hydraulic issue?

SOLUTION:

UPDATE 2: Sometimes, particularly when parked on a hill, the clutch will engage enough to begin pulling the car solidly along only to 'pop' off (i.e. disengage/release) just prior to reaching the 'real' take-up point.

<b>7. CLUTCH SQUEAL </b>

SYMPTOM: Clutch squeals on disengagement (i.e. releasing the clutch to engage a gear)

CIRCUMSTANCE: Noticeable mainly in lower gears at lower RPM as all the commotion of full throttle acceleration would drown out the symptom.

DIAGNOSIS: Throwout bearing?

SOLUTION:

<b>8. SUSPENSION WARNING ERROR </b>

SYMPTOM: Occurs when car completely stalls during higher gears (4-6) on full throttle acceleration

CIRCUMSTANCE: The entire stalling problem can happen when ESP is off, and the suspension warning light may illuminate anyway. recycling the ignition an additional time makes the warning indicator go out (an orange light in the cluster, not in the LCD screen)

DIAGNOSIS: Probably wouldn't happen if the above full throttle issue were resolved.

SOLUTION:

<b>7. [9] BRAKE FADE </b>

SYMPTOM: When slowing from 120 to around 15 mph I noticed the brake pedal seemed to give out - i.e. stopping force could not be increased with further pedal application. Pedal feel is never 'sharp' either.

CIRCUMSTANCE: This was under moderate brake pressure, not 'panic' stop or full 'aggressive' braking, but as the car had slowed from 120 to about 40, I wanted more pressure, but there was no more - no ABS induced, and the ESP was off, and the existing pressure was only moderate. (ALSO NOTE Occassional 'shimmy' in the steering wheel, 'feels' like warped rotors or imbalanced wheels/tires.)

DIAGNOSIS: Possible air bubble in brake fluid.

SOLUTION: Bleed fluid, possibly use larger master cylinder if available?

<b>8. [10] FALSE ABS/ESP ENGAGEMENT (added @ Update 2)</b>

SYMPTOM: ABS and ESP engaging in tight rural mountain road curves when coasting in neutral or lightly accelerating (ESP engaging a single brake on the latter).

CIRCUMSTANCE: ABS sometimes engaging while driving downhill around 'twisty' corners (in neutral sometimes) on level asphalt at speeds under 25 mph. Also experience ESP engaging while driving around similarly tight corners, but not under acceleration. Engages single brake caliper, but no actual loss of stability or traction seems to be occuring (nor seems even remotely possible) to trigger the computers. Turning off ESP still results in the 'unnecessary ABS engagement'.

DIAGNOSIS: Incompatibility in ECU and ABS/ESP computer codes? Wheel spacers, LSD or 40/60 torsen playing a role?

SOLUTION:

<b>8. [11] WHEEL SPACERS (added @ Update 2)</b>

SYMPTOM: Drivers rear wheel appears to stick out further than passenger rear wheel.

CIRCUMSTANCE: Stand behind the car and look at it. I might be wrong, but it sure seems the wheel and tire tread stick out further on the drivers' side than the passenger side.

DIAGNOSIS: Either the spacers or the wheels have something going on, or the rear of the car is screwed up...

SOLUTION: Measure spacers for 'similarity', go from there...

<b>9. [12] OUTSIDE TEMP SENSOR (added @ Update 2)</b>

SYMPTOM: Temperature reads high - i.e. says the outside temp is 80 degrees F when in fact it's maybe 55 degrees F. Results in cabin AC engaging when it really isn't needed, blowing colder than necessary.

CIRCUMSTANCE: Any time the engine's been running more than a few minutes, the outside temp (displayed in the center of the dash between the speedo and tach) reads well above the actual outside temp, even when the car is moving.

DIAGNOSIS: Temp sensor probably just needs to be relocated, it is most likely being affected by the placement of the FMIC.

SOLUTION: Simply Relocate sensor to location where it is not affected by outside airflow, sun, or underhood engine/coolant temps.

<b>(END OF 2007 NOTES)</b>

So, for any misconceptions that Autospeed `never sends anything out of their shop less than 100% perfect', this should certainly set that `track record' straight.

Mark: As I've previously stated, I'm deeply regretful that this `project' has gone so incredibly badly. This is not what I or any person would want. It is not how anyone would want or expect to be treated as a customer, this car is not what anyone would want as an automobile.

Due to the lost time, subsequent life changes, world events and so on, this project can never 'go' as it was supposed to or serve the purposes it was intended to serve at the time it was undertaken. Short of time travel, I want nothing other than to be appropriately reimbursed.

While I haven't done the accounting lately, I know I've got at least $100,000 tied up in this car, your modifications, other parts, expenses and attorney's fees, with no end in sight. If you think for one second I am taking this lightly, you will soon find out very differently. I couldn't be more serious or sincere.

I am sorry this has become a public matter - it serves me no purpose. Given the condition of my car and months of unreturned phone calls to you, I felt a warning to my fellow allroad enthusiasts was minimally appropriate. To date, I've posted nothing on the A6 or S4 forums here or any of the other Audi enthusiast web sites.

But make no mistake, if I send you the car again, I will also send you the title, and there will be a lot of hard earned money back in my bank account, with which I can buy a car that works. If you wish to discuss the resolution, please contact my attorney.

For those who may be reading this, if you are interested in purchasing my allroad as a 'project car', please send me an email at the address in the link at the top of this post. I'll keep you posted as to the mechanical diagnosis and my resolution with Autospeed.

Sincerely,

- Sarge

Mark@AutoSpeed

Sarge, you have email.

S4Buckeye

...and on e-bay now as well. Not 50k plus the original ride though.

Hope you get it straightened out man.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/allroad/msgs/243796.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/allroad/msgs/243796.phtml</a</li></ul>

LoveV8

I feel bad for both you guys! I love ASP...I have the prototype exhaust for the b6 s4. I went there and got the exhaust installed and the service was great. Mark himself even showed me b5 s4 that had the gt28 turbo's, and the job was flawless, he even made a shiny chromed plate that stated Autospeed tuned and placed it in the engine (this was 3 ½ years ago when they had the old shop). The owner of the b5 was from Maryland from what I remember. Those of us that went to his shop all know that Mark and the Autospeed team know what they are doing.
But on the other end you have a customer that spent a tremendous amount of money in hopes of getting a flawless product (btw if I spent that much money I would be going nuts). But these situations are guaranteed to happen in the course of a business. This is a service industry and the customer is always right within reasonable means. What ASP should do is satisfy the customer, bite the bullet and take necessary action to improve the odds of this situation from never happening again (ex. changing the carrier).
I feel really bad for the customer but if I spent 50,000 dollars and the tuner didn't respond to my calls I would fly my *** down there and rip him a new one. Like, what's the cost of a flight these days to dirty Jersey?...500 dollars? To protect my investment I would pay anything reasonable. Bottom-line ASP has a great reputation. So hope this situation gets sort out for the sake of the business and the 50,000 dollars what was put up.

LoveV8

I feel bad for both you guys! I love ASP...I have the prototype exhaust for the b6 s4. I went there and got the exhaust installed and the service was great. Mark himself even showed me b5 s4 that had the gt28 turbo's, and the job was flawless, he even made a shiny chromed plate that stated Autospeed tuned and placed it in the engine (this was 3 ½ years ago when they had the old shop). The owner of the b5 was from Maryland from what I remember. Those of us that went to his shop all know that Mark and the Autospeed team know what they are doing.
But on the other end you have a customer that spent a tremendous amount of money in hopes of getting a flawless product (btw if I spent that much money I would be going nuts). But these situations are guaranteed to happen in the course of a business. This is a service industry and the customer is always right within reasonable means. What ASP should do is satisfy the customer, bite the bullet and take necessary action to improve the odds of this situation from never happing again (ex. changing the carrier).
I feel really bad for the customer but if I spent 50,000 dollars and the tuner didn't respond to my calls I would fly my *** down there and rip him a new one. Like, what's the cost of a flight these days to dirty Jersey?...500 dollars? To protect my investment I would pay anything reasonable. Bottom-line ASP has a great reputation. So hope this situation gets sort out for the sake of the business and the 50,000 dollars what was put up.