Finally took a road trip. Verdict: My 3.0T Autospeed 'Beast' is HORRIBLE.
12-05-2008, 02:08 PM
#12
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I will know some of that soon.
I took it in today for a thorough diagnosis. We'll see what turns up.
Even so, if the tuning were even correctible, the 'fix' would be pretty meaningless. With the engine burning oil like a two stroke leaf blower, it's unlikely the catalytic converters, O2 sensors, plugs, etc will operate properly for long, if they even still are.
Mark was struggling with the sensor inside the 'MAF' housing. I recall him commenting that it might need a different sensor b/c the stock one was being maxed out, but the problem was a different sensor (that wouldn't get maxed out) would cause a very rough idle situation. Since I've had zero transparency into the second iteration of this attempt (there seems to be little difference) and the car idles fine, I assume I've got the same sensor that was previously being 'maxed-out'. If that is the case, it may be possible that some ham-fisted tuning/programming might have compensated and worked at sea level, but contains assumptions that fall apart at elevation. While that's all conjecture, I'm quite certain software and electronics can't burn oil.
Adding to the 'tally': Before I had left the shop, they had already found the rear pads and rotors were shot. I'd not even looked at them - they're brand new. How is that possible? Did they install used pads and rotors? Maybe the 'big brake' conversion in the front takes more pressure to actuate, so a different brake proportioning valve is needed to reduce the relative pressure being sent rearward. I can't imagine why else the REAR pads and rotors would be shot within a thousand miles or so of driving (plus whatever ASP put on them, I don't know offhand at what mileage they installed them). In any event, the rears should last for tens of thousands of miles. Score one more for ASP 'engineering'...
Even so, if the tuning were even correctible, the 'fix' would be pretty meaningless. With the engine burning oil like a two stroke leaf blower, it's unlikely the catalytic converters, O2 sensors, plugs, etc will operate properly for long, if they even still are.
Mark was struggling with the sensor inside the 'MAF' housing. I recall him commenting that it might need a different sensor b/c the stock one was being maxed out, but the problem was a different sensor (that wouldn't get maxed out) would cause a very rough idle situation. Since I've had zero transparency into the second iteration of this attempt (there seems to be little difference) and the car idles fine, I assume I've got the same sensor that was previously being 'maxed-out'. If that is the case, it may be possible that some ham-fisted tuning/programming might have compensated and worked at sea level, but contains assumptions that fall apart at elevation. While that's all conjecture, I'm quite certain software and electronics can't burn oil.
Adding to the 'tally': Before I had left the shop, they had already found the rear pads and rotors were shot. I'd not even looked at them - they're brand new. How is that possible? Did they install used pads and rotors? Maybe the 'big brake' conversion in the front takes more pressure to actuate, so a different brake proportioning valve is needed to reduce the relative pressure being sent rearward. I can't imagine why else the REAR pads and rotors would be shot within a thousand miles or so of driving (plus whatever ASP put on them, I don't know offhand at what mileage they installed them). In any event, the rears should last for tens of thousands of miles. Score one more for ASP 'engineering'...
12-05-2008, 02:27 PM
#13
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Thanks, I appreciate it... Need a black euro RS6 interior? RNSE?
I've never even gotten to installing the interior - full CF trim, alcantara headliner, euro seats, RNSE w/ BT, TV, Sirius, etc. Such an expensive shame...
