I beer can'd my suspension compressor....
10-19-2008, 08:24 PM
#11
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I used an aluminum can. Here are photos
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/145141/dsc04199.jpg"></center><p>
Hi Everyone,
I just did the beer can job today. It was a lot easier than I thought. The compressor comes out so easily. I can't understand how the dealer can charge $300 for labor.
I'm not sure how effective this fix is going to be over the long haul -- but it certainly has made the compressor quieter. It used to sound like rocks in a blender. Now it sounds like an air mattress pump. Also, it doesn't run as long.
The only problem now is the top right yellow light over the control buttons is on. I'm not sure what that means.
First of all, I didn't have any canned German beer. I had to use Modelo, one of the better cheap Mexican beers -- apropo for the job.
The first photo shows the compressor once removed from underneath the car. The large cylinder is the electric motor. The smaller cylinder is the air filter. The piston is accessed by removing the air filter and then taking out two hex/star bolts. It is not necessary to take apart the electric motor (difficult to do with long flat-top bolts).
Photo 2 shows the rubber piston ring. This looked worn from its 127k miles of operation. I think this is the culprit in compressor failure. Shimming the chamber with an aluminum can should improve the compression inside the cylinder.
There is also an internal air valve (the other small cylinder at the other end) that can go bad. When this happens, you will hear a loud thumping noise everytime the compressor shuts off.
Photo 3 shows the beer can liner sitting inside the cylinder. It is important to cut two holes, upper and lower, for the air intake and exhaust. Also, I made the liner about 1/4" longer than the cylinder so it would rest against the air intake that is down in the piston cavity. This should prevent the liner from dropping down into the cavity once the piston starts going up and down.
Photo 4 shows the piston removed of the cylinder. About 1/4" below the opening is the air intake house that I used as a resting stop for the liner.
The white stuff is lithium grease -- very important for lubing the rubber piston ring against the new cylinder liner.
Reassembly wasn't too hard. Just put the cylinder sleeve back over the piston and make sure the liner stays in place when you push everything together. Then reattach the air filter cylinder.
Hi Everyone,
I just did the beer can job today. It was a lot easier than I thought. The compressor comes out so easily. I can't understand how the dealer can charge $300 for labor.
I'm not sure how effective this fix is going to be over the long haul -- but it certainly has made the compressor quieter. It used to sound like rocks in a blender. Now it sounds like an air mattress pump. Also, it doesn't run as long.
The only problem now is the top right yellow light over the control buttons is on. I'm not sure what that means.
First of all, I didn't have any canned German beer. I had to use Modelo, one of the better cheap Mexican beers -- apropo for the job.
The first photo shows the compressor once removed from underneath the car. The large cylinder is the electric motor. The smaller cylinder is the air filter. The piston is accessed by removing the air filter and then taking out two hex/star bolts. It is not necessary to take apart the electric motor (difficult to do with long flat-top bolts).
Photo 2 shows the rubber piston ring. This looked worn from its 127k miles of operation. I think this is the culprit in compressor failure. Shimming the chamber with an aluminum can should improve the compression inside the cylinder.
There is also an internal air valve (the other small cylinder at the other end) that can go bad. When this happens, you will hear a loud thumping noise everytime the compressor shuts off.
Photo 3 shows the beer can liner sitting inside the cylinder. It is important to cut two holes, upper and lower, for the air intake and exhaust. Also, I made the liner about 1/4" longer than the cylinder so it would rest against the air intake that is down in the piston cavity. This should prevent the liner from dropping down into the cavity once the piston starts going up and down.
Photo 4 shows the piston removed of the cylinder. About 1/4" below the opening is the air intake house that I used as a resting stop for the liner.
The white stuff is lithium grease -- very important for lubing the rubber piston ring against the new cylinder liner.
Reassembly wasn't too hard. Just put the cylinder sleeve back over the piston and make sure the liner stays in place when you push everything together. Then reattach the air filter cylinder.
02-18-2012, 08:13 PM
#16
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Doing this now. Will post results.
Scissors seem to be the best for the cutting the can open.
Using PBR on mine! (always nice to have a little red, white and blue in your German auto)
Scissors seem to be the best for the cutting the can open.
Using PBR on mine! (always nice to have a little red, white and blue in your German auto)
02-20-2012, 10:12 AM
#17
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More pictures
Ok,
(UPDATE)
THERE ARE 2 WAYS TO DO THIS.
1. LINE THE CYLINDER- I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS, MY CAN GOT SHREDDED.
2. SHIM THE PISTON'S PLASTIC RING BEHIND THE PLASTIC RING. - TRYING THIS OUT NOW! (SEE THE OTHER WRITE UP)
So the dust in the eyes is a serious pain! I highly recommend putting on some goggles. I have glasses so I didn't want to deal with them...but probably should have. (DID THIS THE SECOND TIME, MUCH BETTER)
1. Once you have the compressor out, just take the 2 star bolts off (1 holds the heat sensor on top of the heat sink looking thing which is the piston cylinder) and rotate it open like a suitcase. See pic of whole thing.
2. WHEN REINSTALLING I USED CARD STOCK TO HOLD THE WASHERS UP WHILE PUSHING THE COMPRESSOR UP...AWESOME TRICK IF I DO SAY SO MYSELF. (THIS ONLY APPLIES IF YOU JUST TAKE THE COMPRESSOR OUT)
(WHAT YOU WILL NEED)
Basically, beer or coke can
Small Plyers
Lithium Grease (I used spray on which I recommend)
Scissors
As for wrap up...I don't have a Vag-com, so I used my own personal manual reset procedure that has worked in the past.
Got the car on 4 jack stands as low as possible. Turned off Jack mode, punched it up to level 4 and let the compressor run.
(UPDATE)
THERE ARE 2 WAYS TO DO THIS.
1. LINE THE CYLINDER- I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS, MY CAN GOT SHREDDED.
2. SHIM THE PISTON'S PLASTIC RING BEHIND THE PLASTIC RING. - TRYING THIS OUT NOW! (SEE THE OTHER WRITE UP)
So the dust in the eyes is a serious pain! I highly recommend putting on some goggles. I have glasses so I didn't want to deal with them...but probably should have. (DID THIS THE SECOND TIME, MUCH BETTER)
1. Once you have the compressor out, just take the 2 star bolts off (1 holds the heat sensor on top of the heat sink looking thing which is the piston cylinder) and rotate it open like a suitcase. See pic of whole thing.
2. WHEN REINSTALLING I USED CARD STOCK TO HOLD THE WASHERS UP WHILE PUSHING THE COMPRESSOR UP...AWESOME TRICK IF I DO SAY SO MYSELF. (THIS ONLY APPLIES IF YOU JUST TAKE THE COMPRESSOR OUT)
(WHAT YOU WILL NEED)
Basically, beer or coke can
Small Plyers
Lithium Grease (I used spray on which I recommend)
Scissors
As for wrap up...I don't have a Vag-com, so I used my own personal manual reset procedure that has worked in the past.
Got the car on 4 jack stands as low as possible. Turned off Jack mode, punched it up to level 4 and let the compressor run.
Last edited by sketch44; 03-03-2012 at 04:28 PM.
02-20-2012, 07:08 PM
#18
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In the original "I beer can'ed my suspension" post, wasn't the beer can used to increase the diameter of the groove the piston ring sits in??? It seems as though that is a far easier way to accomplish the same outcome + the cylinder wall is not what wears, its the nylon composite piston ring, right? Anyway, I'm going to dive into this project tomorrow and see what happens. I'm actually thinking about using two strips of can and test fitting to see if it fits and moves easily. I'll take pics and do a write-up as well. Thanks everybody that has contributed to this (hopefully) spectacular fix.
btw-sketch44, when you pulled the compressor, you said you made the mistake of pulling the compressor apart from the plate its mounted to...can you elaborate so I don't make the same mistake? I'm guessing that the 3 rusted 10mm nuts that I see when crawling underneath are holding on just a shield? Thanks!
btw-sketch44, when you pulled the compressor, you said you made the mistake of pulling the compressor apart from the plate its mounted to...can you elaborate so I don't make the same mistake? I'm guessing that the 3 rusted 10mm nuts that I see when crawling underneath are holding on just a shield? Thanks!
02-21-2012, 10:14 AM
#19
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Was not aware this was possible. Too bad I just bought a new pump months ago. Pulled out the old pump thinking it was seized, but it was just a wire that had been broken. I put the new in anyways. old pump for sale, make offer
02-23-2012, 07:49 AM
#20
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thanx for this...I'm encouraged now to try it to an old tired compressor that I have laying around.
Someone should take our old ones and re-build them, they'd have good business I bet.
Someone should take our old ones and re-build them, they'd have good business I bet.