paging Ex-PzKM Cdr...
#1
paging Ex-PzKM Cdr...
I've still got my pinch bolt problem. I've been driving the Land Cruiser for three weeks.
The bolt head end of the pinch bolt is drilled/punched/hammered in 3/4 of the way to the control arm, but I can't get anything to bite drill wise. I'm using lots of PB to lube, cobalt bits of varying sizes, and also mixing in some punches and air hammer for good measure... the bolt has not budged even a mm.
I've been messing with it for three weeks... I get defeated, then go back to the store get some new wonder bit and then try again...
I'm going to call my local guy and have him come get it, but I know he will use heat... so I'll be forced to get control arms.
Here are my two questions: Anything tricky about replacing the upper arms?
The steering arm top bolt sheered off, I PB'd it and it has loosened and has a 1/2 inch of play up and down... what is holding it in place, and how do I get the new bolt in there?
Thanks for the help, I'm stuck in the middle of nowhere NC with no Audi people for hundreds of miles.
The bolt head end of the pinch bolt is drilled/punched/hammered in 3/4 of the way to the control arm, but I can't get anything to bite drill wise. I'm using lots of PB to lube, cobalt bits of varying sizes, and also mixing in some punches and air hammer for good measure... the bolt has not budged even a mm.
I've been messing with it for three weeks... I get defeated, then go back to the store get some new wonder bit and then try again...
I'm going to call my local guy and have him come get it, but I know he will use heat... so I'll be forced to get control arms.
Here are my two questions: Anything tricky about replacing the upper arms?
The steering arm top bolt sheered off, I PB'd it and it has loosened and has a 1/2 inch of play up and down... what is holding it in place, and how do I get the new bolt in there?
Thanks for the help, I'm stuck in the middle of nowhere NC with no Audi people for hundreds of miles.
#2
you don't need "audi people" for this.
This is not something that is Audi Specific.
Sometimes a bolt can corode to another part and as a result, the parts need to be sacraficed.
Even replacing the control arms is simple wrench turning.
You may want to prepare and buy them on line along with the other parts you need.
Sometimes a bolt can corode to another part and as a result, the parts need to be sacraficed.
Even replacing the control arms is simple wrench turning.
You may want to prepare and buy them on line along with the other parts you need.
#3
One quick idea...
...so you are given two small access ports into the world of the pinch bolt...these are the reliefs cut into the "knuckle" itself. I want to describe the piece the hub, steering and control arms mount to as a "steering knuckle" but it has another name in Audi parlance.
I wonder if you could exploit these... I assume you already have, but if not, I wonder if there's an elegant way, through prying or mechanical cutting (best left to future discussions).
For instance, if you are really down to brass tacks, would if be a good idea to stick a prybar into these nooks and GENTLY attempt to spread the gap a little? This will release some pressure on the thing, and maybe reveal which section is stuck.
I'm sure you've already worked on this, but just in case... I just don't want to miss the opportunity.
I wonder if you could exploit these... I assume you already have, but if not, I wonder if there's an elegant way, through prying or mechanical cutting (best left to future discussions).
For instance, if you are really down to brass tacks, would if be a good idea to stick a prybar into these nooks and GENTLY attempt to spread the gap a little? This will release some pressure on the thing, and maybe reveal which section is stuck.
I'm sure you've already worked on this, but just in case... I just don't want to miss the opportunity.
#5
Take the strut mount off, three bolts in the top under the plastic battery tray cover
then simply install new arms MANTAINING the original geometry. Take one off at a time and line the new one up withthe remaining old one. Then put the next new one on aligning it to the first new one. It seems odd to me that it wont drill. I can't see that it wouldn't come out. I have never had one like that.
#6
Thanks all. The be-all end-all Pinch Bolt was familiar.
I have the CV boot kit, two new pinch bolts, the new steering tie rod bolt, the front rotors and pads, all lying in wait.
I do not have control arms yet... I was hoping to avoid it... but I will order them today just to be sure.
I don't really want to heat it, only to have to disassemble the suspension and replace other things in the process.
I was hoping for a magic technique to getting the bolt loose. But 3 weeks of off and on working on it has me shot, and my wife has lost any faith in my doing anything DIY with the Audi...
I do not have control arms yet... I was hoping to avoid it... but I will order them today just to be sure.
I don't really want to heat it, only to have to disassemble the suspension and replace other things in the process.
I was hoping for a magic technique to getting the bolt loose. But 3 weeks of off and on working on it has me shot, and my wife has lost any faith in my doing anything DIY with the Audi...
#7
Agreed. For the time (& time be money ;) you've spent on that, certainly just grab a couple new
control arms and be done w/ it. Or go blauparts and get the whole package w/ the updated arms.
I got sick of trying to get a simple bushing off my original rear stabilizer bar, threw in the towel after just four hrs of struggling, and just bought the part. That bar is still sitting up in the attic w/ that link attached. Bad example, I know, as that part is cheaper. But, you can think of this as good ole preventative maintenance (unless you've already recently replaced those arms).
I got sick of trying to get a simple bushing off my original rear stabilizer bar, threw in the towel after just four hrs of struggling, and just bought the part. That bar is still sitting up in the attic w/ that link attached. Bad example, I know, as that part is cheaper. But, you can think of this as good ole preventative maintenance (unless you've already recently replaced those arms).
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#8
For applying heat....
has anyone here ever used a welder? Apply some guards to the expensive bits to prevent damage from slag and then just hit the end of the bolt with a mig/tig/arc welder. It will apply a lot of heat very locally to a bolt very quickly and avoids the nasty flame thing. I've had to use it a couple of times on siezed bolts on my truck and it seemed to work well.
Also, for drilling try lubricating using cutting oil, available at most hardware store for a couple of bucks, as it will work a pile better than WD40. It stinks so you wont be able to attract ladies with that sweet WD smell.
Cheers
Gregor
Also, for drilling try lubricating using cutting oil, available at most hardware store for a couple of bucks, as it will work a pile better than WD40. It stinks so you wont be able to attract ladies with that sweet WD smell.
Cheers
Gregor