Problem with Front Driveshaft Removal
#1
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In the middle of removing front driveshaft to replace torn boot and I've hit a snag. Removed pinch bolt and upper control arms then went to remove driveshaft hub from transmission. Looks like a Torx 50 but when I try and remove bolts it doesn't fit. Is there a special tool for this? What have others used? Nothing mentioned in eBahn. Thanks, Thom
#2
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In the middle of removing front driveshaft to replace torn boot and I've hit a snag. Removed pinch bolt and upper control arms then went to remove driveshaft hub from transmission. Looks like a Torx 50 but when I try and remove bolts it doesn't fit. Is there a special tool for this? What have others used? Nothing mentioned in eBahn. Thanks, Thom
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#4
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It will also be done up insanly tight. Its 150Nm plus a further 180 degrees!! I sheared a socket set adaptor undoing one of mine. Easiest to loosen it before undoing pinch bolt/arms etc when wheels still on the ground, sometimes helps if a 2nd person pushes the brakes at same time.
#5
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Sounds like you are doing a lot more work than need be done mate:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...le-replacement
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...le-replacement
#6
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Three Words
Seafoam Deep Creep. This is my insurance policy for getting all stuck bolts out. And trust me you usually don't know how stuck it is until you strip the mother effer.
Other recommendations, get your wife or girlfriend to pump the brake and pop the clutch in and out for you so you don't spend all day back and forth between the drivers seat and the ground.
This is not too bad a job but Kudos to you for knuckling down and getting in there.
Seafoam Deep Creep. This is my insurance policy for getting all stuck bolts out. And trust me you usually don't know how stuck it is until you strip the mother effer.
Other recommendations, get your wife or girlfriend to pump the brake and pop the clutch in and out for you so you don't spend all day back and forth between the drivers seat and the ground.
This is not too bad a job but Kudos to you for knuckling down and getting in there.
#7
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Sounds like you are doing a lot more work than need be done mate:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...le-replacement
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...le-replacement
I've heard, if running into problems removing axle, disconnecting the lower arm can help
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#8
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Pulling the shield off the inner CV is key. I had my pinch bolts soaking for two days before I started this repair. First side I tried to take the control arm pinch bolt and tie rod pinch bolt out for axle removal and re-installation. Stripped the completely frozen control arm pinch bolt, broke the tie rod pinch bolt. Including trip to the hardware store...first side took 4hrs. Second side...45min. Leave the pinch bolts the f%!* alone!!!
Also, for removing the inner CV flange bolts (where it bolts to trans), no need for a second person, the car to be in gear or anything. Just (provided the wheels are choked) put two or three of your lug bolts back into the hub. Using a breaker bar (I used a piece of re-rod), position it between two of the lug bolts so that when you are breaking the inner bolts free, the re-bar, in conjunction with the the fact the the floor of your garage isn't going anywhere anytime soon, wont allow the axle to spin. Removing all 6 of these bolts took me <5min.
Also, for removing the inner CV flange bolts (where it bolts to trans), no need for a second person, the car to be in gear or anything. Just (provided the wheels are choked) put two or three of your lug bolts back into the hub. Using a breaker bar (I used a piece of re-rod), position it between two of the lug bolts so that when you are breaking the inner bolts free, the re-bar, in conjunction with the the fact the the floor of your garage isn't going anywhere anytime soon, wont allow the axle to spin. Removing all 6 of these bolts took me <5min.
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