To remove light / fog switch: where are the clips once lower dash comes out?
#2
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switch push in and rotate about 1/8 turn clockwise and pull out. The whole switch comes out. Unclip wires and replace.
#3
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I have to add a DRL mod to my US import in Canada. I'm looking at schematics for a mod on a TT but the principle looks the same. If anyone has input into this chime in please!
Thanks Arch
Thanks Arch
#4
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#8 (white/yellow) wire to the #2 (grey/green) wire. This will permanently turn on the front fogs (as long, of course, as you have made the appropriate fusebox tap connection so that the fogs are powered as soon as the ignition is switched on and not just when the low beams are on). The wire tap connector is a $2 item from Radio Shack and has two blades in a plastic enclosure that make contact between two wires without having to alter the wires in any way. It's easy to remove once the Transport Canada inspection is completed if you prefer.
Incidentally, this does not affect the high beam foglight defeat or the rear foglight functions.
Incidentally, this does not affect the high beam foglight defeat or the rear foglight functions.
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#8
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foglight switch permanently engaged (per previous instructions), the fogs won't light until the low beams are on. You need to supply power to the foglight circuit, which is #36 on the fusebox. There are excellent instructions on how to do this on the A6 board (see link). The only thing I did differently from the A6 instructions is to connect to the large orange switched auxiliary power lug underneath the steering column. My car didn't have an obviously unused circuit in the fusebox and I didn't want to experiment so I went through the small additional work of removing the lower dashboard to access the aux switched power lug. I used a Radio Shack 12GA inline fuse holder to make the connection which turned out to be the perfect length. I soldered a round lug to the aux power end and soldered the other end to the left leg (front of the car when installed) of a blown fuse for the fusebox end. I used a blown fuse for the connection to the fusebox because it was free and a very reliable connection. A blade adaptor can be used as well but I think the blown fuse is best. It's important to ensure that the fuse is burned. I made sure to remove all the fusible link with a small screwdriver. I used the original 15A fuse in the inline holder.
That's probably not as clear as it could be. I'm happy to clarify if required.
Congratulations on your new car; great colour. Mine's an 04 Cobalt Blue as well.<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec43.shtml">https://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec43.shtml</a</li></ul>
That's probably not as clear as it could be. I'm happy to clarify if required.
Congratulations on your new car; great colour. Mine's an 04 Cobalt Blue as well.<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec43.shtml">https://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec43.shtml</a</li></ul>
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... or maybe I'm wrong.
The tech article indicates that you can power on the fogs when you turn the dial to parking lights. I actually need the fogs to go on when I turn on the ignition and leave the light switch in the 'off' position. Then - if I turn on parking lights and/or low beam / high beam, it will behave "normally", just as it was before the mod. Do these two taps accomplish that? Other documentation I've found suggests an additional relay and fuse too.
The tech article indicates that you can power on the fogs when you turn the dial to parking lights. I actually need the fogs to go on when I turn on the ignition and leave the light switch in the 'off' position. Then - if I turn on parking lights and/or low beam / high beam, it will behave "normally", just as it was before the mod. Do these two taps accomplish that? Other documentation I've found suggests an additional relay and fuse too.