The S

I am just working tight behind the lock carrier for those that care.

Flint'sA6

search c5a6 forum for a post by Kris Hansen...he has pix of this same method on his 2.8 (tip). That's where I got the idea.

maybe tip 2.7ts are different than tip 2.8s? DOubt it, though.

autosolutions

The cooler lines need to be disconnected under the car or at the radiator to pull the lock carrier. S4 does not have the cooler on a manual trans.

alrightroad

I will be doing mine within the next few weeks I think. Still need to get a couple last tools.

The S

Email me if you have questions I can help/take pictures as needed. All I have to do is fill the coolant and bleed the system.

alrightroad

Or just the cam lock bar? I guess the proper way to do it is using the pin as well.

Ginga52

To follow-up on this thread, I did pull out the ATF lines coming in on the top portion (pass side) of the radiator (I should have read this post first). Now I am trying to put it back in but find it is realy though (impossible?) to get back in... I recall when I pulled it out there was a small "pop" when it got released from the radiator (with a bit of strenght but not excessive). I find I cannot apply the same pressure to get it back in.

Just tightening the bolt from the support only makes the line crooked on one side and the seal / assembly does not look right.

By disconnecting the top line only I don't think I lost any fluid, am I wrong on that?

What should I do to get that line back in? Am I screwed???

Thanks...

alrightroad

Make sure the o-rings on those two pipes are well lubed. Then, while tightening the bolts on the one side of the pipe, push the other side into the whole with watever method works for you and your available tools. It is not an easy thing to do given the space in there for your hands but it works. Dont tap with hammer as you will damage the pipe or the radiator holes. For the lower connector, I simply wedged a bar down in there so I could apply lateral force directly again the pipe into the hole. It popped right in. The tightening bolt while pressuring the other side of the pipe is the best bet. Dont tighten too much or the other side will never pop in place. Do it gradually.

Ginga52

i now need to remove my radiator which got damaged with a blown cooling fan, probably due to a failed engine mount on the drivers side (is this even possible???) in any case the rad is now leaking from the core...

I removed the top ATF line (thanks for the tip for puting it back in last week!!!!)

but now I am stuck to remove the bottom line without causing damage like I did to the top one (it took me about 1 hour to put the line back in...)

any trick to remove the lower ATF line without damaging anything???

thanks in advance

Ginga52

i guess a bit of elbow grease does it...