Upper control arm choices
#1
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I've gone to the ECS Tuning site and there are many choices for control arms from different manufacturers. I spoke to a representative who recommended the Meyle arms as their bushings are the best. The cost difference between the high end and low end is a few hundred bucks for just the upper four arms alone. I'm planing on keeping my Allroad for the long haul so the Meyle option may be the way to go. Anyone have experience with Febi, Üro or Lemförder?
Too many choices and I don't want to spend unnecessarily.
Too many choices and I don't want to spend unnecessarily.
#3
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I replaced all my front control arms last year and used part TRW (lowers) and part OEM arms (uppers). I'm not sure if they are the best out there but so far things are still good. I got my set from Europaparts.com but they are kind of spendy. You can get other sets for a bit cheap from Blauparts.
Why are you only replacing the uppers? Usually if the uppers need replacing then the lowers will also need to be replaced.
Why are you only replacing the uppers? Usually if the uppers need replacing then the lowers will also need to be replaced.
Last edited by G0to60; 05-20-2013 at 08:45 AM.
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I replaced all my front control arms last year and used part TRW (lowers) and part OEM arms (uppers). I'm not sure if they are the best out there but so far things are still good. I got my set from Europaparts.com but they are kind of spendy. You can get other sets for a bit cheap from Blauparts.
Why are you only replacing the uppers? Usually if the uppers need replacing then the lowers will also need to be replaced.
Why are you only replacing the uppers? Usually if the uppers need replacing then the lowers will also need to be replaced.
I just went to Blauparts. They offer a kit of the uppers from Ocap out of Italy.
Thanks!
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You MUST install control arms are ride height. If you install them while the suspension is hanging, the neutral position of the bushing will be while the suspension is unloaded. Once you set the car down the bushings will twist. Being in this twisted position the majority of the time is why the fail prematurely.
Jason
#7
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Lemforder and TRW would be considered OEM quality, but you alos pay $$$ for that quality. The Meyle's are a great compromise with great quality at a lower price. FCP Euro sells all three brands with the Meyle's being very cost effective.
Not sure why a poster ripped ECS, but I have always had great service from them. Your choice on seller.
Not sure why a poster ripped ECS, but I have always had great service from them. Your choice on seller.
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#8
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Lemforder and TRW would be considered OEM quality, but you alos pay $$$ for that quality. The Meyle's are a great compromise with great quality at a lower price. FCP Euro sells all three brands with the Meyle's being very cost effective.
Not sure why a poster ripped ECS, but I have always had great service from them. Your choice on seller.
Not sure why a poster ripped ECS, but I have always had great service from them. Your choice on seller.
#9
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One area that can turn upper CA replacement from a easy couple of beer job to a all day cursing nightmare is the pinch bolt. Do a forum search and/or Google search about it. If yours is frozen and rusted in place then it is a total PITA. I would suggest doing a test loosening of the pinch bolt. If it comes free then great your very lucky. If it's frozen then start soaking with penetrating oil and get a replacement bolt since you will most likely destroy the old one in the nightmare process of removal.
#10
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Interesting. I have replaced at least 16 upper control arms.
Being cheap, and get the low priced once (FCP mostly). I thought 'you get what you pay for' is the reason they last only a year or so.
If your suggestion is correct, I may now know why.
But: how in the world are you installing the arms WITH THE CAR ON THE GROUND? No way I see to get to the bolt through the fender gap.
Do I have to build myself (had thought about that actually for other reasons) a 'wheel replacement template' (steel plate with lug bolt pattern on correct center height, welded to a a steel T as footing)?
Being cheap, and get the low priced once (FCP mostly). I thought 'you get what you pay for' is the reason they last only a year or so.
If your suggestion is correct, I may now know why.
But: how in the world are you installing the arms WITH THE CAR ON THE GROUND? No way I see to get to the bolt through the fender gap.
Do I have to build myself (had thought about that actually for other reasons) a 'wheel replacement template' (steel plate with lug bolt pattern on correct center height, welded to a a steel T as footing)?