Upper control arm choices
#11
AudiWorld Member
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
All you need to do to tighten the control arms at ride height is place a jack under the lower ball joints and lift it up. Easy pleasey.
I just had an order from ECS and they were perfect. A couple parts were back ordered but they listed the time it would take to get them in and they hit the date perfect. I don't think I've ever had a bad shipment over the dozen or so orders I've done with them.
I just had an order from ECS and they were perfect. A couple parts were back ordered but they listed the time it would take to get them in and they hit the date perfect. I don't think I've ever had a bad shipment over the dozen or so orders I've done with them.
#12
AudiWorld Senior Member
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
All you need to do to tighten the control arms at ride height is place a jack under the lower ball joints and lift it up. Easy pleasey.
I just had an order from ECS and they were perfect. A couple parts were back ordered but they listed the time it would take to get them in and they hit the date perfect. I don't think I've ever had a bad shipment over the dozen or so orders I've done with them.
I just had an order from ECS and they were perfect. A couple parts were back ordered but they listed the time it would take to get them in and they hit the date perfect. I don't think I've ever had a bad shipment over the dozen or so orders I've done with them.
Now need to get (with the wheels on, car in 'preferred' ride height), the correct height to a repeatable/measureable point on the suspension.
#13
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Interesting. I have replaced at least 16 upper control arms.
Being cheap, and get the low priced once (FCP mostly). I thought 'you get what you pay for' is the reason they last only a year or so.
If your suggestion is correct, I may now know why.
But: how in the world are you installing the arms WITH THE CAR ON THE GROUND? No way I see to get to the bolt through the fender gap.
Do I have to build myself (had thought about that actually for other reasons) a 'wheel replacement template' (steel plate with lug bolt pattern on correct center height, welded to a a steel T as footing)?
Being cheap, and get the low priced once (FCP mostly). I thought 'you get what you pay for' is the reason they last only a year or so.
If your suggestion is correct, I may now know why.
But: how in the world are you installing the arms WITH THE CAR ON THE GROUND? No way I see to get to the bolt through the fender gap.
Do I have to build myself (had thought about that actually for other reasons) a 'wheel replacement template' (steel plate with lug bolt pattern on correct center height, welded to a a steel T as footing)?
All you need to do to tighten the control arms at ride height is place a jack under the lower ball joints and lift it up. Easy pleasey.
I just had an order from ECS and they were perfect. A couple parts were back ordered but they listed the time it would take to get them in and they hit the date perfect. I don't think I've ever had a bad shipment over the dozen or so orders I've done with them.
I just had an order from ECS and they were perfect. A couple parts were back ordered but they listed the time it would take to get them in and they hit the date perfect. I don't think I've ever had a bad shipment over the dozen or so orders I've done with them.
^^This.
With the wheel off, and the vehicle on jack stands, or a lift, place a jack under lower ball joint and compress the suspension.
Once the suspension is at about where it would sit normally, then you can tighten your bolts. You can start them while you have the suspension hanging but just leave them loose enough that there is no tension on the bushing. Get your ride height set then crank them down.
This is 99% of why bushings fail so quickly because people don't follow this one crucial step.
Below is helpful attachment I have included for anyone who needs more information or a visual.
Tightening Suspension Bushings - May.pdf
I hope this helps!
Jason
#14
AudiWorld Senior Member
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jason, thanks. Great help. Makes sense if the rubber is in deed 'clamped' and not free to rotate.
Need to do all my AR (and bunch of Passat/A4). Puh.
Need to do all my AR (and bunch of Passat/A4). Puh.
#15
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Glad I could help! God knows front suspension overhauls are never fun to do! Hopefully this will assist in getting the most life out of your control arms.
It should also be mentioned that you really should adjust the bushings if you lower your vehicle.
Any time you can allow the bushing to be in the neutral most position the better.
Cheers!
Jason
It should also be mentioned that you really should adjust the bushings if you lower your vehicle.
Any time you can allow the bushing to be in the neutral most position the better.
Cheers!
Jason
#16
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
A note for allroad.
You want to tighten the bushing bolt while at the level you use THE MOST. For most it means L2, some people ride on L1 all the time and these would do it at L1.
Since allroad is equipped with air suspension you want to cycle the car levels once the wheel knuckle is jacked up until it reaches desired level. Then tighten the bolt.
Oh, and it doesn't matter how high, to a sane level of course, you jack up the wheel you working on. The leveling in allroad is not gravity/level based or corner to ground based but a simple distance from lower control arm to level sensor attached to chassis. Theoretically the car can be upside down and still regulate the height of wheel properly.
You want to tighten the bushing bolt while at the level you use THE MOST. For most it means L2, some people ride on L1 all the time and these would do it at L1.
Since allroad is equipped with air suspension you want to cycle the car levels once the wheel knuckle is jacked up until it reaches desired level. Then tighten the bolt.
Oh, and it doesn't matter how high, to a sane level of course, you jack up the wheel you working on. The leveling in allroad is not gravity/level based or corner to ground based but a simple distance from lower control arm to level sensor attached to chassis. Theoretically the car can be upside down and still regulate the height of wheel properly.
#17
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Most control arms are all very similar. Proper installation is whats going to have the biggest effect on the bushings life.
You MUST install control arms are ride height. If you install them while the suspension is hanging, the neutral position of the bushing will be while the suspension is unloaded. Once you set the car down the bushings will twist. Being in this twisted position the majority of the time is why the fail prematurely.
Jason
You MUST install control arms are ride height. If you install them while the suspension is hanging, the neutral position of the bushing will be while the suspension is unloaded. Once you set the car down the bushings will twist. Being in this twisted position the majority of the time is why the fail prematurely.
Jason
#18
AudiWorld Super User
![](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/ranks/guru2.jpg)
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Unless you're installing something like Powerflex bushings, which are not pressed/bonded, right? Just ordered a set of those for my allroad and can't see how it would matter where the suspension was at when they're tightened. What's the deal with the aftermarket upper control arms? They give you the ability to adjust caster/camber? Do they all use the same outer balljoints?
#19
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Unless you're installing something like Powerflex bushings, which are not pressed/bonded, right? Just ordered a set of those for my allroad and can't see how it would matter where the suspension was at when they're tightened. What's the deal with the aftermarket upper control arms? They give you the ability to adjust caster/camber? Do they all use the same outer balljoints?
Unless you have adjustable control arms you cant really adjust front camber.
You can shift the sub frame to even out the camber but this wont completely rid you of negative camber.
Jason
#20
AudiWorld Senior Member
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Back to square one.