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Wastegate Control Lines

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Old 07-16-2011, 04:17 AM
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Default Finally

Lock carrier off and changed out timing belt, water pump, pullys, accessory belt, etc. while I was in there (100K).

Pulled the turbo inlet pipe and got enough room to dremel the clamp off and pull the what was left of the wastegate control line off. Thankfully I don't have to remove motor mount or anything else. Looks like 4mm hose will do the trick but I'll have to insulate to keep it from the same fate as the last line.
Old 07-16-2011, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by bikspk
Unforseen issue - DIY writeups and Bentley failed to mention transmission cooler line removal. Again, I already had a new transmission filter on hand. Too bad it appears to be a PITA to fill the system properly.
Actually quite easy compared to what you have been doing. Use VAG-COM to monitor fluid temp and no problem.
Old 07-16-2011, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 5v/cyl
Actually quite easy compared to what you have been doing. Use VAG-COM to monitor fluid temp and no problem.
Yea, only have about 1/2 pint to replace but also had to find pentosin ATF (lucky that Napa has the right stuff).
Old 07-16-2011, 03:34 PM
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Default Holy Crap!

Got the old control line bypassed and everything back together. Only had to go backwards once and had to remove bumper after forgetting to put intercooler intake boxes in.

Started her up and everything seemed okay so, after a warmup to open the thermostat and top off the coolant I took it out for a spin.

Whoa, you put your foot down and it doesn't go into throttle limp after a couple seconds. Didn't get out on the highway but this thing, even at 4000 lbs, is a beast. Will have to warn my wife.
Old 07-16-2011, 04:10 PM
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Default Performance Before

Here's what the boost, N75 and throttle look like when the boost control line is broken.

Note that at the beginning of the pull, the actual boost climbs up above requested boost and, at about 286 seconds, the ECU figures out that upping the duty cycle of the N75 hasn't reduced boost to below requested and cuts the shuts the throttle.

Will post "after" pics as soon as I can get them.
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Old 07-17-2011, 08:39 AM
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And, the results after. Wonder why the N75 doesn't lower its duty cycle when the actual boost is 50 mbar less than requested but I'm not complaining.
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Old 07-17-2011, 10:32 AM
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wana know a tip. hook up your pressure line, the bottom line on the n75 to the manifold behind the throttle body. like the evap line. i bet you will hit 27 psi on your first pull. trick know is to manunaly with a gas valve , turn down the pressure the map see's.

then make sure your tip is coded to 32 sport mode. makes a huge difference in the pedal responce from the tcm and a higher tq level allowed.
Old 07-18-2011, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by choptt
wana know a tip. hook up your pressure line, the bottom line on the n75 to the manifold behind the throttle body. like the evap line. i bet you will hit 27 psi on your first pull. trick know is to manunaly with a gas valve , turn down the pressure the map see's.

then make sure your tip is coded to 32 sport mode. makes a huge difference in the pedal responce from the tcm and a higher tq level allowed.
I'll look at why the difference between requested and actual boost exist. Maybe that's the control algorithm (50 mbar below requested). Not as interested in making the car perform beyond the original design as the OEM equipment, especially the intake, was only designed to deal with a lower pressure. I've noted that a lot of posts relate to figuring out why the OEM equipment failed after being overboosted.

Will look at the transmission coding though. I think that it is "learning" that it has power now but, if I don't like the sport mode, I can reset it to factory. Thanks for the tip.
Old 07-25-2011, 07:16 AM
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bypassed to the intake mani,?? the more vacc you induce on the n75 pressure line in, the better the boost. just watch out for torque limit.
Old 04-05-2013, 09:08 PM
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So did you ever figure out how much work it took? I need to run a new line also to my passenger side wastegate
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