Clutch question? Smokes and releases near top of pedal?
#1
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My UR S6 1995 has 140K on the clutch. It does not appear to slip however shifting or release point seem very high on the pedal. If I use the clutch hard such as getting out of a snow bank where I am reving high and releasing several times I get a lot of smell and smoke from the clutch. Does this sound like I might want to replace proactively? Also, should I spend the $$ for a new dual fly wheel ($1500) or is it ok to have it resurfaced? I am not sure if resurfacing is good or not on these dual flywheels.
#2
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If the clutch is releasing high, it is also probably very stiff. Very stiff eventually results in either of these:
In the UrS4 and UrS6, a increasingly "heavy" clutch that needs more and more leg effort to depress it is often a sign that the clutch disc is wearing. Very often before the clutch actually slips, the clutch pedal or the clevis rod between the pedal and the clutch master cylinder break due to fatigue cracks. At that point, you are in trouble (some people have been able to start the car in gear and then limp home). Pre-emptive maintenance includes replacing the clutch.
Clutch Master Cylinder Clevis Rod failure:
Photo courtesy of Fred Munro
Here is a typical broken clutch pedal:
![](http://12v.org/urs/BrokenUrSClutchPedal.jpg)
In addition to the above, Paul Heneghan from the UK has posted this photo, with this comment:
"Additionally, you might crack the pedal bracket - see attached photo. An exceptionally difficult job to R&R on some cars (RHDs anyway) as the steering column has to come out."
![](http://12v.org/urs/PaulHeneghansBrokenPedalCluster.jpg)
Photo courtesy of Paul Heneghan
The clutch slave cylinder receives the hydraulic pressure (via a pipe) from the clutch master cylinder and is responsible for moving the pivot arm (clutch release arm) tha is attached to the throw-out (release) bearing which in turn pushes on the release forks on the clutch plate, taking the pressure off the clutch disk, disengaging the engine from the transmission.
Here are some diagrams and part numbers:
Clutch Pedals and Master and Slave cylinders:
![](http://12v.org/urs/ClutchPedalMasterSlaveCylinderPNs.jpg)
The pedal cluster:
![](http://12v.org/urs/C4UrSPedalClusterShowingPedalAndSwitchPNs.jpg)
The clutch and related parts:
![](http://12v.org/urs/ClutchPNs.jpg)
The problem isn't going to go, so away take steps to avoid the flatbed.
If you have to replace the clutch pedal, then this Clutch Pedal Replacement DIY should help.
Also: Fred M's clutch master cylinder replacement pdf: http://12v.org/urs/AudiUrS4ClutchMas...eplacement.pdf
In the UrS4 and UrS6, a increasingly "heavy" clutch that needs more and more leg effort to depress it is often a sign that the clutch disc is wearing. Very often before the clutch actually slips, the clutch pedal or the clevis rod between the pedal and the clutch master cylinder break due to fatigue cracks. At that point, you are in trouble (some people have been able to start the car in gear and then limp home). Pre-emptive maintenance includes replacing the clutch.
Clutch Master Cylinder Clevis Rod failure:
![](http://12v.org/urs/ClutchMasterCylinderWithBrokenClevisRod.jpg)
Here is a typical broken clutch pedal:
![](http://12v.org/urs/BrokenUrSClutchPedal.jpg)
In addition to the above, Paul Heneghan from the UK has posted this photo, with this comment:
"Additionally, you might crack the pedal bracket - see attached photo. An exceptionally difficult job to R&R on some cars (RHDs anyway) as the steering column has to come out."
![](http://12v.org/urs/PaulHeneghansBrokenPedalCluster.jpg)
Photo courtesy of Paul Heneghan
The clutch slave cylinder receives the hydraulic pressure (via a pipe) from the clutch master cylinder and is responsible for moving the pivot arm (clutch release arm) tha is attached to the throw-out (release) bearing which in turn pushes on the release forks on the clutch plate, taking the pressure off the clutch disk, disengaging the engine from the transmission.
Here are some diagrams and part numbers:
Clutch Pedals and Master and Slave cylinders:
![](http://12v.org/urs/ClutchPedalMasterSlaveCylinderPNs.jpg)
The pedal cluster:
![](http://12v.org/urs/C4UrSPedalClusterShowingPedalAndSwitchPNs.jpg)
The clutch and related parts:
![](http://12v.org/urs/ClutchPNs.jpg)
The problem isn't going to go, so away take steps to avoid the flatbed.
If you have to replace the clutch pedal, then this Clutch Pedal Replacement DIY should help.
Also: Fred M's clutch master cylinder replacement pdf: http://12v.org/urs/AudiUrS4ClutchMas...eplacement.pdf
Last edited by UrS4boy; 01-31-2013 at 08:42 PM.
#3
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
More dual mass flywheel info HERE
#4
Audiworld Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Calgary
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The clutch pedal on my 94 s4 broke. (one of the main reasons the car was put up for sale). It now has a new pedal/master/slave/line, but the engagement is still high. The pressure needed to disengage the clutch isn't too bad.
That cost of replacement flywheel makes keep these cars on the road more prohibited.
That cost of replacement flywheel makes keep these cars on the road more prohibited.
#5
AudiWorld Senior Member
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The clutch pedal on my 94 s4 broke. (one of the main reasons the car was put up for sale). It now has a new pedal/master/slave/line, but the engagement is still high. The pressure needed to disengage the clutch isn't too bad.
That cost of replacement flywheel makes keep these cars on the road more prohibited.
That cost of replacement flywheel makes keep these cars on the road more prohibited.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
icys4
Audi Original "S" Cars
18
02-07-2008 01:50 PM