dwang

I am having the hardest time removing what should be the final piece of the puzzle of my R&R, the crank bolt. I have the crank lock tool, but the bolt is stubborn as hell. I have been applying penetrating oil for the past week gearing up for this event.

First, I had the crank lock in place, bolted into its proper place on the block. But when I applied pressure, the bolt broke out of the hold, breaking the corner of the block! Luckily, nothing else on the block was damaged. Next, I pressured locked the crank lock tool and used a 5 foot 1" black pipe extension on a 1/2" drive breaker bar. The crank lock held without problems, but the 1/2" drive breaker bar snapped (the driver socket nub broke in half).

I am a defeated man. I have no idea what to do. The only thing I can think of is to use the Audi 2079 tool along with a 2" black pipe extension (it would take the breaker bar out of the equation). What about using mapp gas to torch the bolt? Would that help? Is that an option? Anyone care to advise? I need help!

yodasfro

Yes go for the mapp gas that will help breakdown the loctite. Just be careful to not burn the rubber on the harmonic balancer. The 2079 is for torquing the bolt not loosening. Might be time to step up to a 3/4" breaker bar. Sucks about the crank lock breaking the block. I've use the 10v crank lock on the AAN before just need to bolt on a snub mount bracket from a NA 5cyl.

dwang

I will give the mapp gas a try. I don't care about the harmonic balancer or the bolt for that matter as I have another complete spare crank pulley and crank bolt that I can install in its place. I just want the **** old one off!

quattro20v

That's a good idea to use the 2079 and 7A snub mount, the 2079 tool is much cheaper than the 3256.

A 1/2 drive is not strong enough to handle the torque, you are applying >600 ft-lbs to remove this. Use a 3/4 drive.

I always wondered if that small bolt was strong enough to hold the 3256. Some people put a jackstand under the tool for extra support. Regardless, I'd go with the 2079 tool and heat at this point.

Good luck.

UrSoccer_mobile®

Like the others have suggested. I'd rent a 3/4" breaker bar. I did my t-belt job two weeks ago and the 3/4" was very handy although it took a little fight loosening that bolt but it wasn't as bad.

J@RO

Harbor freight has 3/4 bar for less than 20 bucks

GO FOR IT - if it breaks go to harbor freight again and they'll replace it for free!

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=98270

dwang

I brought back the Craftsman 1/2" drive breaker bar and they just handed me a new one. While there, I also picked up a 3/4" drive breaker bar on sale for $25. Harbor Freight is a bit of a trek for me, so Craftsman it is. I'm gonna give it another go tonight with the help of my friend. I soaked the bolt again with penetrating oil. I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks for all the suggestions.


Dave

eric7soccer

i let my crank locking tool just lean again the front subframe bar that you see, since that wont move, 6 foot bar two polish guys = 600lb of torque )), and it was out

dwang

Got the bolt out yesterday. No heat, just force. Definitely needed 2 people and the 5 ft black pipe. I rested the lock tool on a jack as many have suggested here. It felt like I was going to tear the engine out off of the mounts.

New problem after the bolt though... Car now won't start after reinstalling the head/TB. Still trying to figure it out.

Eric, You're in Mahwah right (I'm in Ridgewood)? Do you drive a green S6 by chance? I've seen that car at the Mahwah Home Depot parking lot a few times.