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F*&^%$# drain plug!

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Old 02-09-2008, 05:44 PM
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Default When you do the install, make sure you turn it so the lever on the valve doesn't hit the sway bar or

the starter cable tube.
Old 02-09-2008, 05:51 PM
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Default Thanks for the tip ;)

Bookmarking as a reminder since I probably wont be installing it until next oil change.
Old 02-09-2008, 08:29 PM
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Default I was there too. Bought my car and wanted to change the oil before a 1200 mile drive.

Couldn't get anywhere with the socket. Ended up driving the trip; which was fine as the oil had actually been recently changed. However, I had to get it on at lift at my mechanic's shop and he was able to loosen it without any trouble. Yep, at that point it taught me why I prefer to work on my own vehicle when I can. And of course to carry spare copper crush washers.
Good luck; you might take it to some quick lube and ask if they will loosen it for you as a guesture of good faith.
Old 02-10-2008, 01:10 AM
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Default I could have that plug out in about 5 minutes.

Too bad you aren't local.
Old 02-10-2008, 06:14 AM
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Default If its already stripped ..buy a set of Sears Craftsman Boltouts

Or similar...

Attach to the right sized socket a breaker bar..
Removal is almost instant, no futzing with a hammer and chisel...

BTDT, took less than a minute
Old 02-10-2008, 02:08 PM
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Default I had the same problem in my car, I thought I was going to have to remove the pan..

I ended up stripping the bolt, and I was really careful to try not to do it. Ended up notching it out with a air grinder and using a 4 ft pry bar to get it off. After that I put on a fumoto valve. Had no problems with it whatsoever.
Old 02-10-2008, 02:34 PM
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Default I had the same issue on the Mean Green Machine.

('94 100S Avant. Green, of course.)

So, I got out my shorty 6-point socket. I put the breaker bar on there, and gave it some hand pre-load. (chefbob's mind furiously spinning on how to attack that collection of words).

Then, I got out my hammer, and started tapping on the shaft of the breaker bar. Not wailing on it, just tapping. After about five minutes of this (it felt a LOT longer), the drain plug broke loose. Then the regular 1/2" drive ratchet finished the job up.

The real fun came when I had to get the filter off. My filter wrench actually twisted the metal casing of the filter. I finally poked two Phillips-head screwdrivers through the casing (all the way through), and broke it loose like that.

It was a bit of a sweat, because a twisted filter could be driven to the mechanic for some shop gorillas to remove. Holes poked through means tow truck if I don't get the damn filter off.

I gave the drain plug a bit of antisieze. The filter just needs to be changed more often.

Yes, I did oil the gasket before I spun the filter on. Always.
Old 02-10-2008, 05:48 PM
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Default

My hint/rule: Always install the new oil filter by hand, no wrenches. (But twist like a MF)
Old 02-10-2008, 07:25 PM
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Default Oh, yes. I never tighten past 7/8ths turn from gasket contact.

If I really gripped it, I could get a full turn. But I've never had leaks.

No, this one was neglect, pure and simple. I thought I had changed the oil at a certain mileage, but what I had actually done was add oil.

So the drain interval had doubled.

The gasket got to be rock-hard and fused itself to the seat.

I've been able to use a filter wrench forever to get VW/Audi oil filters loose. Not this time. And NEVER, EVER put a wrench on the thing to put it one. Hand tight only.
Old 02-10-2008, 08:00 PM
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Default Use copper crush washer and replace the drain plug with a new one....

It takes some elbow grease, but works every time for me.


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