How do I know if my turbo is blown (1995 S6)
#1
How do I know if my turbo is blown (1995 S6)
Title states it all. I'm having a heck of time diagnosiing whats up with this thing. I can hear the turbo spool but during boost, the boost from the turbo seems to cut in and out. My buddy told me that the turbo sounds more like a "high pitched whine" rather than the whooshing of normal turbo. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks
NeCCo13
PS I'm also looking for possibly a new turbo, what should I be looking for that would be a direct drop in for my car. I'm not looking for the best of the best brand new and would prefer used. Thanks!
NeCCo13
PS I'm also looking for possibly a new turbo, what should I be looking for that would be a direct drop in for my car. I'm not looking for the best of the best brand new and would prefer used. Thanks!
#2
#3
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you'll see blue smoke at start up and on full throttle on the highway.
It could be the N75 valve, the bypass valve or the wastegate if you're having problems with regulating or maintaining boost.
It could be the N75 valve, the bypass valve or the wastegate if you're having problems with regulating or maintaining boost.
#4
if your turbo is blown.you'll see the car smoke out since the car is started up and when you reved the engine up.A big puff of blue smoke
comes out and gone.Until you let your car sit an idle for a while,the smoke will be back again.It's hardly to be noticed on the smoke when you're hard driving(the worst case you'll see the car smoke all the time).
here's what the turbo seals do.The seals in almost all turbos today are piston ring seals. They look like piston rings that are compressed when they are installed to leave minimal gap between the ends of the rings and around the rings. This forms a torturous path for the oil to prevent leakage into the air passage. Most performance turbos use only a single piston ring on the compressor and turbine sides because they do drag the rotation of the turbo which reduces mechanical efficiency. In applications sensitive to oil leakage for emissions, etc. it is not uncommon for 2 piston rings to be used on both the compressor and turbine sides.
On the compressor side, generally there is some kind of oil splitter which throws oil away from the seal as it is spinning. Because the piston rings and the splitter are dynamic seals, when the turbo is spinning faster, the better the seal operates. that's why if the turbo isn't really bad,you'll hardly see the smoke out.
currently,I have a fews bad K24 laying around.I bet they did the same thing. please let me know it can be knid of helps.
comes out and gone.Until you let your car sit an idle for a while,the smoke will be back again.It's hardly to be noticed on the smoke when you're hard driving(the worst case you'll see the car smoke all the time).
here's what the turbo seals do.The seals in almost all turbos today are piston ring seals. They look like piston rings that are compressed when they are installed to leave minimal gap between the ends of the rings and around the rings. This forms a torturous path for the oil to prevent leakage into the air passage. Most performance turbos use only a single piston ring on the compressor and turbine sides because they do drag the rotation of the turbo which reduces mechanical efficiency. In applications sensitive to oil leakage for emissions, etc. it is not uncommon for 2 piston rings to be used on both the compressor and turbine sides.
On the compressor side, generally there is some kind of oil splitter which throws oil away from the seal as it is spinning. Because the piston rings and the splitter are dynamic seals, when the turbo is spinning faster, the better the seal operates. that's why if the turbo isn't really bad,you'll hardly see the smoke out.
currently,I have a fews bad K24 laying around.I bet they did the same thing. please let me know it can be knid of helps.
#6
AudiWorld Super User
#7
Sounds to me like a boost leak.
There are quite a few places to check for this, but start with the hoses from MAF to Turbo (pre-turbo, so not really a boost leak, but it will cause boost issues b/c air MAF reads and air getting to engine don't match). Check hoses at N75 valve, hose to wastegate and from crankcase, and also connection at BPV. Then, hose from turbo to intercooler, including the hard plastic cross-over pipe are places to check for leaks. The S4s had metal cross-overs - I am also looking for one of these to replace my own plastic unit.
Basically, just follow the air from where it starts, to when it reaches the intake manifold. The intercooler itself also has plastic end tanks on an UrS6 (again, as opposed to the all-metal UrS4 version!). These have been known to suffer from leaks over time. Realliy inspect this area, and look for spots of oil that may have collected anywhere on the intercooler. Oil mist is recirculated back into the intake tract and a bit will collect inside the intercooler. If it is on the outside of the IC, you likely are leaking.
Then, there is the hose from the IC to throttle body. Check it out. If it is old and/or cracked, fins a Samco one and be done with it.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Basically, just follow the air from where it starts, to when it reaches the intake manifold. The intercooler itself also has plastic end tanks on an UrS6 (again, as opposed to the all-metal UrS4 version!). These have been known to suffer from leaks over time. Realliy inspect this area, and look for spots of oil that may have collected anywhere on the intercooler. Oil mist is recirculated back into the intake tract and a bit will collect inside the intercooler. If it is on the outside of the IC, you likely are leaking.
Then, there is the hose from the IC to throttle body. Check it out. If it is old and/or cracked, fins a Samco one and be done with it.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
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