Canadian Carl

Hi everyone - this is my first post here

Never had an Audi before but always wanted one! 2 weeks ago I bought a 96 S6 here in Montreal - I fell in love with her the first time I saw it.



The car seems to have some nice (I think) choice modifications - Porsche front brakes, new Magnaflow-custom exhaust and today I saw some Bilstein shocks at the back. I'm still looking for other stuff (any help?)

I really don't know much about these cars but am keen to learn.

When I first drove the car it had a loud 'clunking' in the rear passenger side - definately coming from the shock area. The guy I bought it from said it was a plate that needed replacing and he is pretty honest.

I took the car to a local garage today to get the summer tires put on and to have a good look at the 'clunk'. When we got the car on the lift you could move the rear wheel because of play in what I think is the control arm (?) - seems to set the camber (?) - see picture and arrow below - this joint really is gone.



Is this easy for a newbie to change? Seeing as this joint is completely gone (it rattles) what other problem areas should I be looking at? (maybe replacing the other side?) What do I need to buy (inc tools?) there's also lots of squeaking going on at the back but I'm not too worried about that yet (or maybe I should be?).

If this is something I shouldn't be working on how much should it cost /how long will it take?

Ultimately I want this to be my spirited summer driver and if Im lucky enough I'd love to take it to the track for some good clean fun.

thanks,

Carl

UrS4boy

Carl: Nice looking car. Your front bumper has an LLTek lower valence that is an aftermarket add-on. I believe they are made in Montreal:

http://www.lltek.com/S4_S6_C4_classic_frnt_valance.htm

That rattling rear suspension part is the track control rod (Item 1 below, different PN for L and R) and when it is new and not rusty like I am guessing yours is, is used to adjust the rear camber. Yours probably has the bushings worn out. Replace both sides. Soak everything (Items 6, 7 and 8) with Liquid Wrench/PB Blaster, etc for a few days before you try to remove the bolts. You will need new hardware (don't reuse the old stuff and use lots of antisieze on 6, 7 and 8 and the threads on the two halves of Items 1, i.e. Items 2 and 5). Initially adjust the new track control rods (left and right, don't get them mixed up) to the same exact centre to centre distance as the old ones. Then go get a proper alignment.

Private Mail me here (link in the upper right corner) and I will hook you up with 4 or 5 guys from Montreal with UrS cars.

Canadian Carl

thanks Dave. What a great comprehensive reply. I checked the front bumper today and you're right!

I'm inspired now to give this a go. For parts is the best place to go the dealership or will I do much better online? (remembering that I'm also in Canada!)

I'll PM you later today ref. Montreal guys -it will be good to hook up with some local, knowledgeable people.

thanks again and Happy Canada day!

Carl

UrS4boy

To PM me, you click on my screen name (UrS4boy) in the lefthand box of my posts (like this one). To check *your* Private Messages, that is when you click on the "Private Message" link in the upper left corner.

When I hook you up with the Montreal UrS crew, I can ask where they get their parts. For this, OE will be best, whether from a local dealar or an online dealer.

scottme262

I have been chasing this clunking noise on my 93 S/4 for about four years now.
Changed virtually every bushing on the rear. Had my shocks rebuilt. Koni said nothing wrong.
I have not changed these yet. I will now!
Thanks for the info
Scott

GoHeels

Not sure if this is well known or not, but I saw a test that showed a mixture of 1/2 Acetone and 1/2 Automatic
Transmission Fluid beats any other lubricant to loosen rusty bolts. They tested like 4 of the most popular products
and what took the others ~200 to 300 lbs of force to loosen the bolts, it only took ~130 pounds of force using this
acetone/atf mixture.

Just a tech tip.

Paul Heneghan

I've got to do one of these over the next few days. About three years ago, I had to do the right side, but after struggling to get a puller into the confined space to remove the inner ball joint (443 505 366 D, item # 2 in drawing), I gave up, and just replaced all the other components that make up the control rod. The inner ball joint wasn't showing signs of wear, just the outer ball joint.

Now I've got to do it for the left side. Has anyone any suggestions for removing the inner ball joint. You can't even get a club hammer to it from what I remember!

Paul

UrS4boy

This?

scarman

There are some cheap aftermarket parts for sale on the web. They don't last. The bushing will be squeaking in a few months and worn out in 6 months.

You are sort of caught in the middle here. I certainly can't recommend buying the genuine Audi parts at about $350 for the pair, but certainly don't buy the cheap chinese parts. Maybe the Febi-Bilstein parts will hold up?, but I don't have enough confidence to give them a recommendation.

Paul Heneghan

Just checked the paperwork from the MOT and it's the same side that's failed again (the chap told me verbally that it was LHS, but the paperwork says RHS). It's much too cold, dark and wet to go out and inspect, so I'll have a look in a day or two when it warms up.

Thanks for the BFI suggestion Dave. I've got four assorted pullers (none of which fits), but no pickle forks - maybe time to get one? I've never liked the thought of them as I'm sure you must destroy the ball joint getting it off. I often open separate tie-rod ball joints and then reuse them afterwards.

Scarman - you've probably hit it on the head. I used (part of) a £60 eBay-sourced control rod last time instead of the dealer £200 part.

When I dismantle it all (assuming I can get it apart), I'll report back.