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Replacement procedure for AAN coilpack?

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Old 01-11-2010, 08:54 AM
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Default Replacement procedure for AAN coilpack?

Greetings,

I will be replacing my #3 OEM coilpack in the next few days and was wondering if there were any detailed instructions on how to do this. I believe there is splicing and soldering involved which I'm not too comfortable with, but will do what is necessary. Thanks in advance for any details.
Old 01-11-2010, 02:03 PM
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Audi does not sell the replacement pins for the connectors and the new coil wire does not have pins attached
since they need to be trimmed to length.

That leaves you to splice on the old wire ends or source your own connectors and crimp them on. You should use the double crimp tool to make that neat crimp like the original pins.

you can get pins from eagleday.com, or a BMW dealer parts dept. They are AMP brand connectors and are called junior power timer connectors and pins.
Old 01-11-2010, 09:27 PM
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One approach is to cut, strip and solder (lineman's splice) with heat shrink tubing (remember to put the tubing over the wire first and push it away from the solder joint until you are ready to heat shrink the tubing over the joint.
Old 01-12-2010, 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by UrS4boy
One approach is to cut, strip and solder (lineman's splice) with heat shrink tubing (remember to put the tubing over the wire first and push it away from the solder joint until you are ready to heat shrink the tubing over the joint.
Thank you very much guys. So does it matter where in the line I splice? I'm replacing #3. Thanks again.
Old 01-12-2010, 05:09 AM
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Either where the wires are inside the 20v Turbo cover or outside, not at the point where they emerge from the cover. For neatness, inside the cover.
Old 01-21-2010, 08:05 AM
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Default #1 not firing, continuity issue?

OK, so I replaced the #3 OEM coilpack. Ran great for a few days, then #1 started mis-firing and is now dead. However, upon diagnosis (inlcuding swapping back in my 1.8t coilpack setup), the #1 cyl still does not fire. We've ruled out coilpack, POS, sparkplug and fuel injector. What else could it be? Next up is to run a continuity test on the POS connector to ECU. Any other ideas? Anybody run into this before? Thank you.
Old 01-21-2010, 12:35 PM
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Check your conductors for swollen spots, generally an indicator that the insulation was compromised and the wire inside has corroded and open circuited. Sometimes if you spot one of these the sheathing will be elastic. If the wire is intact you won't be able to stretch the conductor. Wish you success.
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