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Revised thinking on an AAN intake tract boost leak pressure test

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Old 03-23-2008, 12:15 PM
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Default Good revision, good points added. More on the "should" thing...

I replaced the BPV with my forge valve. I don't know of it being defective. Could it possibly need a stiffer spring? Could that be causing my boost issue?

The first time I tried to pressure test I didnt have the wine stoppers for the smaller plugs but covered them with my hands briefly just to see if the cap I made would work and it began to apply pressure. Then next time I did this with the smaller plugs and it came out of the ISV, which is why I was even more confused as to what was happening.
Old 03-23-2008, 12:29 PM
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Default They recommend the hoses go the opposite way that they do with the stock valve. I don't...

Have a copy of the instructions, but I remember thinking about it for a few days trying to understand why they want it installed in the other direction...and it kinda makes sense. How is yours installed?
Old 03-23-2008, 01:31 PM
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Default

Mine is installed the same as OEM (as in the diagram above). Should I flip it?
Old 03-23-2008, 07:55 PM
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Default I flipped mine today after doing some testing...

It holds pressure much better with the bottom of the piston facing the boost. With the side of the large chamber facing the pressure the piston blows right open. Makes a noticeable difference driving the car.<ul><li><a href="http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=240236#240236">http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=240236#240236</a</li></ul>
Old 03-25-2008, 06:49 AM
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Default Got my new hose from miniman yesterday and installed. While I was at it I

vac tested the BPV and it popped up real quick. I shimmed it and that helped a little. I installed in reverse with the new hose. The hose was in terrible shape. The bottom side was split half way around. I will test drive tonight or tomorrow and give you guys an update.
Old 03-27-2008, 06:51 AM
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Default More updates on this...

So after slightly shimming my DV and reversing i didn't really notice a difference. I then shimmed it more and then it started operating "louder" as described by forge. Sounds like a BOV so I am going to try it in the normal position again with the stiffer shims. It did seem to help a little so I took it a step further and gave more attention to the dreaded 1.9 bar waste gate spring. After reading how the n75 controls the waste gate, a little different setup than what I am used to, I backed the spring out more. Noticeably better, backed out more, even better. The car is almost running properly now. I did try loosening the spring before I had the forge valve in and it made no difference. The reason behind this is that my OEM DV was bad, I discovered this when vacuum testing the valves the other day. I have a disassembled OEM valve if we need pics for a write up or anything.

Questions, comments, should we do some kind of write up for this? I have learned a lot this week and would like to thank the AW community.
Old 03-31-2008, 07:47 AM
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Default One last update...

I switched my DV back to the normal position with the stiffer shim. It is working the same without the obnoxious BOV sound. I am in the process of getting a OEM waste gate spring to see how the car likes that vs the 1.9 bar spring.

On a side note, I think switching to the K valve (WGFV) may show better results with the 1.9 bar waste gate spring. Has anyone tested this?
Old 05-12-2008, 05:31 PM
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Default The above was edited on May 12, 2008 to eliminate the previous suggestion that the crankcase vent

hose that comes out of the cam cover and goes to the MAF to turbo hose needs to be capped. Under the older test procedure when you would test through the MAF to turbo hose, this needed to be done. However, under the revised procedure, capping the cam cover to MAF hose is not necessary. No big deal if you did it, it's just not part of the air system in the revised test.
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