UrS4boy

Not saying that this is your problem BUT there is an important relay in the ECU called the Holding Relay. Might be failing?

More Holding Relay info HERE

Kapn.K

I think I'm going to try to bench test the POS's via this procedure. I'll have to do a little pin translation since this is for a 4 cylinder POS and ours use dual 3 cylinder modules.
https://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec181.shtml

http://www.urq20v.com/My_other_cars/S6/POS/S6POS.htm

UrS4boy

Suggest you read these two posts first:

General AAN-related POS info

A detailed diagnostic using the POS to determine coil vs POS issue

I just used the second post on Sunday on a friend's 95 UrS6 to determine, with certainty, that his miss was a coil (No. 1 in his case) and not a POS channel. Works very well and leaves no ambiguity.

Good luck.

Kapn.K

I've read and re-read all the links. I didn't think the pos test would do any good since I have no spark at all. I switched the connector pairs and still had nothing. This procedure relies on a running engine which I don't have. I rigged up the test posted in my link using the d cell to trigger the pos. I had no resistance change from the coil side to ecu side ground. I think they are both smoked on all channels. I had my buddy crank it while probing the cylinder one signal pin from the ecu connector on the pos. I was using my old fluke dmm. It varied in a regular rhythm from 0 to 1V. I tried dc and ac and can't remember which I had it on but both were rhythmic/cyclic. I think with a scope or analog meter I could have seen 3.3 or 5V or whatever it sends to the pos. Now I'm going through your ignition conversion threads and preparing to order the necessary parts. I'm probably going to do the audi/vw coils only because they are cheaper than the d585's. I might order 2 sets of the volvo connectors just so I can do the d585 in the future.

UrS4boy

Find two cheap brown Hitachi "351" POSs from a couple of Audi 12v V6s at a wreckers. Hook them up in pairs to the ECU harness and coils and try again.

Did you ever confirm that you have 12V power at the white harness coil connectors when you turn the ignition key to "ON" (not start)? No 12V there = coil fuse problem.

Kapn.K

Yes sir. I actually probed for voltage at all the fuses by the ecu first and then also checked the firewall connectors. I've got power. I hope to get by the yard this Saturday and see if they have any Audis.

Kapn.K

OK. It's been a while. I just realized that Feb to this coming weekend is probably my busiest time of the year. I've got a 14y/o that is in soccer(which I've coached for 11 years), band, and orchestra. I didn't want to post back without some real information. I took a while to source and build my 2.0t coil conversion. Didn't fix anything.
So I re-read all the posts and order of operation of the start circuit. I mistakenly deduced that fuel pump operation meant cps was good(I didn't get any cps codes in vag, either).
After the coil conversion gave me no love, I thought it must be the cam sensor. Since I'm not a fan of replacing non-faulty parts, instead of ordering a new cps, I broke out the fluke again. I believe I should be getting 5v on the cps red wire either when key is in "run" or at least "start". Neither is happening. I get 0 when off, .012VDC in run and .008VDC in start. I thought it was a ranging error but the meter is auto ranging and I'm looking for 5, not 12 anyway. I also checked the connector ground for continuity to ground and it was 0 ohms. Is there any connector between the cps connector and the ecu connector? I'm using an alleged good ecu that I bought. I can connect my suspect bad one and see if I get a different voltage. The bad one is the one that got water on it. It's still recognized by vag so it might be able to give me a different voltage. Anyway, thanks for any ideas and the help you've already provided. Being in Florida, I don't even know anyone with an audi.

UrS4boy

Suggest that you read this re: LED test light before going too far:

Click HERE

Kapn.K

Update. She runs!
I had tried pulling back the boot and sticking an led(with no resistor) in the back of the cps connector. It didn't light. I ended up buying the the cps test harness and a new cps from efi-x. It lit up once when I first started cranking and then no more. That told me that I must have had 5v for a fleeting moment. I went back the ecu area and checked for 5v at the connector station where the U.S. speed limiter jumper is. While checking, I realized one of my 15 year old fluke probes was acting wonking(the probe would lose continuity when pressing one way. I could rotate it and it would work normally). I ordered a new set of Pomona probes and couldn't be happier.
While double checking the fuses above the ecu, I heard the ecu relay click. I grabbed the yellow one and moved it around and heard it click some more. Fuse was fine but maybe had some corrosion on it or the female connectors in the fuse holder. I put a new fuse in it and had my 5v again. I went to crank it to see if I was getting the led at the cps. I was and it tried to start. I had the #1 plug out when I was testing for spark so I turned it off before it started. It was late so I returned to it in the morning as I thought I had solved the riddle. The next day I put the plug back in and it started for about a second. It did this about 3 more times and then wouldn't fire any more. I started jiggling the key while starting and the dash light got much brighter. I had my charger on the battery the whole time so I knew I had great voltage and current capacity. I ordered a new audi ignition switch and got it installed Saturday. As soon as I turned it to "on", my voltage gauge read near 13V. Prior I was getting 8 which is why I suspected the switch. Thing started right up with a cel. Idled poor and then smoothed out. It did this with both ecu's. So my mtm1+ seems to be fine. I pulled a 4431 ISV/Air leak code. I removed the ISV but need to find my female spades and some speaker wire to test it. Then I will check for hose leaks. I'm thinking it is probably still electrical related. I believe the ISV receives 12v and the ecu toggles ground. I don't have 12v on the ISV connector and I don't believe my hoses developed a leak from sitting for 7 months although it's a possibility.

Either way, I will update this. I also want to thank Dave for all of his knowledge and documentation without which I would not have gotten this far.

UrS4boy

Well good(ish) news. (And you're welcome.)

As for the ISV, check THIS N71 ISV post and THIS ECU pin-out post.