To those who want to add HID to their S car.
04-08-2004, 07:14 AM
#6
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A6 ECE HID Retrofit Project
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/52091/a6_e-code_projector.jpg"></center><p>
I picked up a set of euro-spec HID projectors from a C5 A6 and am planning on doing a retro-fit. The main problem is that the HID projector is wider and interferes with the fog light. I may have to lose the fog light to make it fit. I'll report later once I have figured this out.
I picked up a set of euro-spec HID projectors from a C5 A6 and am planning on doing a retro-fit. The main problem is that the HID projector is wider and interferes with the fog light. I may have to lose the fog light to make it fit. I'll report later once I have figured this out.
04-08-2004, 10:02 AM
#7
I still don't understand what you were saying about the bulbs needing to be aligned.
YUMYJAGER has the HID conversion kit and he says it's great. It would seem to me that the projector does the work and wether you have the proper HID bulb/base in there or and HID bulb with another base it's not going to matter.
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04-08-2004, 10:47 AM
#8
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Quick translation
I did this really quick, my comments are in parentheses. A couple of descriptions I did not understand.
Bi-xenon in an Audi C4
The xenon lens assembly from a VW Passat GP (not sure what model?) will fit without too many modifications into the DE headlight housing of an Audi C4.
1. First you should mark the limits of your headlight beam. I used my garage wall, which is white and marked the limits of the individual zones from a distance of 5 meters. It is very helpful to have something to compare to later.
2. Remove the headlights from the car, including the piece with the headlight washers. Remove the headlights including the blinkers after loosening 4 screws, pull headlights forward. The blinker can be pulled from the headlight housing after pushing a tab.
3. Disassembly of the headlight component:
a) Remove the rubber gasket in front
b) remove the 8 spring clips around the lens
c) remove the lens
d) pulling forward remove the reflective frame
e) remove the headlight leveling motor
f) remove the DE projectors from both lights, unclipping them and carefully pulling them out of the housing. Then remove the wires, pay attention to the way the wires are laid out!
g)On the low beam projector loosen the 4 screws in the middle and remove completely.Because the reflector is delicate place on something soft.
4.The Xenon lights have a somewhat different attachment points and distances to the reflector. Therefore I have bent the M4 screw in the position as needed. With additional washers you can adjust the distance to the reflector exactly as needed. See picture 1.
Picture 1
The lens assembly can be further adjusted by turning the adjustment screws exactly to the middle of the reflector. You should leave a little "air space" between the lens and the reflector as the lenses get somewhat warm. See picture 2
Picture 2
5. The headlight housing must be slightly modified
a) On the Xenon light assembly are tabs ( adjustments?) for left hand traffic, these hit a bar on the housing. This piece must be filed. Don't cut as the material is brittle/porous and can break easily.
b) At the bottom of the housing you need to drill a hole for a rubber grommet about 42mm. See pics 3 and 4.
c)You must install the grommet for the ballast cable. See pic 3 , red and blue wire
Picture 3
Picture 4
6.Before you hook up the wires you need to decide on which of the following versions you want:
a) Xenon low beams and H1 high beams
b)Xenon low beams and Xenon high beams
c) Xenon low beams and Xenon high beam and H1 high beams
I choose version C. Which places the ballast in the place of the H1 low beam , connected so you can change it later. (not following what he is saying) Pay attention to the correct polarity! The motor for the Xenon high beam shield I hooked in parallel to the H1 high beam. The motor switches on when the high beams are activated. The low beam stays on in either hi or low beam mode. When flashing the high beams the Xenon shield is not activated, only the H1 high beam bulb. You could hook it up differently but I did not try to.
7. The installation is the reverse of removal ( sound familiar?) See step 3. Check to see if the reflectors/lenses are not binding when you are using the headlight leveling motors. See picture 5.
Picture 5
8. Install the headlights into the car
9. Change the fuses for the low beams from 2 , 10 amp ones to two 15 amp ones. Although the headlights use less electricity than the H1's the ballasts need more juice when firing up
10. Now you can perform the first lighting test and align them. Now you can use the marks you made previously on your garage wall. ( he then describes adjusting them and the variation between the Xenon and H1 high beams) You should have a shop check the alignment.
11. The Xenon light assembly requires more space and you will need to modify the rear light cover. As there is little clearance on the drivers' side, I simply drilled a hole in the cover and then covered it with some material and made it water tight. See picture 6
12. Finally the ballasts and wires are secured.
Bi-xenon in an Audi C4
The xenon lens assembly from a VW Passat GP (not sure what model?) will fit without too many modifications into the DE headlight housing of an Audi C4.
1. First you should mark the limits of your headlight beam. I used my garage wall, which is white and marked the limits of the individual zones from a distance of 5 meters. It is very helpful to have something to compare to later.
2. Remove the headlights from the car, including the piece with the headlight washers. Remove the headlights including the blinkers after loosening 4 screws, pull headlights forward. The blinker can be pulled from the headlight housing after pushing a tab.
3. Disassembly of the headlight component:
a) Remove the rubber gasket in front
b) remove the 8 spring clips around the lens
c) remove the lens
d) pulling forward remove the reflective frame
e) remove the headlight leveling motor
f) remove the DE projectors from both lights, unclipping them and carefully pulling them out of the housing. Then remove the wires, pay attention to the way the wires are laid out!
g)On the low beam projector loosen the 4 screws in the middle and remove completely.Because the reflector is delicate place on something soft.
4.The Xenon lights have a somewhat different attachment points and distances to the reflector. Therefore I have bent the M4 screw in the position as needed. With additional washers you can adjust the distance to the reflector exactly as needed. See picture 1.
Picture 1
The lens assembly can be further adjusted by turning the adjustment screws exactly to the middle of the reflector. You should leave a little "air space" between the lens and the reflector as the lenses get somewhat warm. See picture 2
Picture 2
5. The headlight housing must be slightly modified
a) On the Xenon light assembly are tabs ( adjustments?) for left hand traffic, these hit a bar on the housing. This piece must be filed. Don't cut as the material is brittle/porous and can break easily.
b) At the bottom of the housing you need to drill a hole for a rubber grommet about 42mm. See pics 3 and 4.
c)You must install the grommet for the ballast cable. See pic 3 , red and blue wire
Picture 3
Picture 4
6.Before you hook up the wires you need to decide on which of the following versions you want:
a) Xenon low beams and H1 high beams
b)Xenon low beams and Xenon high beams
c) Xenon low beams and Xenon high beam and H1 high beams
I choose version C. Which places the ballast in the place of the H1 low beam , connected so you can change it later. (not following what he is saying) Pay attention to the correct polarity! The motor for the Xenon high beam shield I hooked in parallel to the H1 high beam. The motor switches on when the high beams are activated. The low beam stays on in either hi or low beam mode. When flashing the high beams the Xenon shield is not activated, only the H1 high beam bulb. You could hook it up differently but I did not try to.
7. The installation is the reverse of removal ( sound familiar?) See step 3. Check to see if the reflectors/lenses are not binding when you are using the headlight leveling motors. See picture 5.
Picture 5
8. Install the headlights into the car
9. Change the fuses for the low beams from 2 , 10 amp ones to two 15 amp ones. Although the headlights use less electricity than the H1's the ballasts need more juice when firing up
10. Now you can perform the first lighting test and align them. Now you can use the marks you made previously on your garage wall. ( he then describes adjusting them and the variation between the Xenon and H1 high beams) You should have a shop check the alignment.
11. The Xenon light assembly requires more space and you will need to modify the rear light cover. As there is little clearance on the drivers' side, I simply drilled a hole in the cover and then covered it with some material and made it water tight. See picture 6
12. Finally the ballasts and wires are secured.
04-08-2004, 11:18 AM
#9
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Maybe this article will "shed some light" :^)
<ul><li><a href="http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html">http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html</a</li></ul>