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what is the fricking secret to the lower front ball joint removal?????

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Old 12-06-2007, 09:15 AM
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^^^^3rd^^^^
Old 12-06-2007, 11:12 AM
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Default The aluminum rebar from an 80/90 bumper works well....

Just put a 200lb guy on top of it on the end
and that swaybar will drop right on down. BTDT.
Old 12-06-2007, 11:15 AM
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Default I bent mine. No go :)

Had to break out the big guns (see above).
Old 12-06-2007, 01:48 PM
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Default Completely disagree w/ ^^^^^. BUT spreading must be done w/ discretion.

Typically only spread as much as allows the balljoint bolt to pop upwards, which tells you that you've released the tension.
The above horror story was most likely due to a number of factors:
#1 Cinch was spread too far,
#2 the factory bolt was obviously not replaced w/ the correct bolt,
#3 They most likely used air impact to "torque it properly",
#4 They were not paying attention to their work.

The correct bolt, when installed properly will NOT allow the ball joint snub to come out due to the locking groove in the ball joint snub. No way it's coming out Period.
I'll bet they used a bolt w/ threads all way up to the head of the bolt. The factory bolt and any replacement must be a 10.8 grade bolt AND have a non-threaded shank. (Of course threads on the end but none in the middle).
Old 12-06-2007, 02:56 PM
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Default Keep at it

I must have spent a hour fiddling with the lower ball joint on a 4KQ over the last few days. Just wouldn't come out. Try turning the tire left/right a bit. Mine popped out with the hub turned all the way inward with NO leverage. Also try putting a jack underneath the hub and leveraging upward (with a block of wood).
Old 12-06-2007, 06:05 PM
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Good point, I think on one side I put a jack under the the hub also
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