Xeon HID Euro Headlights for '92 S-4
06-01-2006, 05:42 AM
#13
man thats way too small.. email me the full size images and I'll host them for you
you can post multiple pics by typing this multiple times in the post and replacing the web address for each picture..
oh and replace this ( and this ) with these < >
(img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/61186/dsc00256.jpg")
SEE
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/49744/entire_asembly.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/49744/plug.jpg">
oh and replace this ( and this ) with these < >
(img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/61186/dsc00256.jpg")
SEE
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/49744/entire_asembly.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/49744/plug.jpg">
06-01-2006, 09:19 AM
#15
Wiring diagram, chime in guys
your gonna have to let us see inside the housing, because their seems to be one to many plugs when comparing the diagram to the actual pictures
<img src="http://www.itallics.com/images/help2.jpg">
<img src="http://www.itallics.com/images/help22.jpg">
<img src="http://www.itallics.com/images/help23.jpg">
<img src="http://www.itallics.com/images/help2.jpg">
<img src="http://www.itallics.com/images/help22.jpg">
<img src="http://www.itallics.com/images/help23.jpg">
06-01-2006, 04:22 PM
#18
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There should be a 4 pin connector coming from the ballast, the wire codes are:
L13 - left xenon ballast
yellow/blue - for constant 12V
yellow/black - switched power from low beam
brown - ground
grey - for "bulb out" indicator / lamp control module
L14 - right xenon ballast
yellow/blue - for constant 12V
yellow - switched power from low beam
brown - ground
grey - for "bulb out" indicator / lamp control module
yellow/blue - for constant 12V
yellow/black - switched power from low beam
brown - ground
grey - for "bulb out" indicator / lamp control module
L14 - right xenon ballast
yellow/blue - for constant 12V
yellow - switched power from low beam
brown - ground
grey - for "bulb out" indicator / lamp control module
06-01-2006, 04:33 PM
#19
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the 3 pin on back of housing is for high beam, fog and ground - EDIT
the 2 pin on back of housing is for city / parking light and ground
standlicht M1/M3 = parking light left / right
fernlicht M30/M32 = high beam left / right
The odd thing is that I don't see any reference to the fog light (nebel licht) in the diagrams.
standlicht M1/M3 = parking light left / right
fernlicht M30/M32 = high beam left / right
The odd thing is that I don't see any reference to the fog light (nebel licht) in the diagrams.
06-01-2006, 05:33 PM
#20
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Here is the write up, its for the S6 which is different - use it as a guideline only.
OEM Xenon Headlight Install
1995-1997 Audi S6
1. Remove Headlights
The physical removal/install is exactly the same as the DOT lights so I won't go into that.
2. Wiring up the Xenon Low Beams
Disconnect negative battery post under seat before doing any wiring.
The ballast has 4 wires terminating at a round 4 pin plug;
Red - 12V constant
Yellow - switched low beam from headlight switch
Brown - ground
Black - bulb out sensor wire
I went full out and bought the mating plug from Audi so I could do a clean install. This is optional, but I'm pretty **** about this. You can just cut off the plug and wire it up or use the mating plug, its up to you. The plug is the same as the plug for the fuel pump on the 100/200/A6/S6, so if are near a breaker yard, it will be much cheaper. If you decide to buy new OEM plugs, here are the p/n;
813 972 929 x2 - 4 pin connector (0033.jpg)
000 979 135 x4 - connector with wire attached, 1.0 mm dia
000 979 227 x4 - connector with wire attached, 2.5 mm dia
I sourced 12v constant from the jump start battery post using ring terminals (0040.jpg), the post unscrews with a socket. Ground was taken from an unused stud near the fuel filter (0030.jpg), and I made a wiring harness running from this location to each of the front corners. Photo (0041.jpg) shows a general layout of the wiring harness. Make sure you put an inline fuse on the 12v constant, I used 2x30 amp fuses and holders (0040.jpg). The switched wire running to the plug on the back of the headlight (yellow) needs to be cut and connected to the yellow wire for the ballast controller. The other 2 connections are ground (brown) and constant 12 V (red) from the fabricated wiring harness. Again, I used the mating OEM plug and terminated these connections to it. The bulb out wire (black) is complicated and I ended up not using - see below.
For wiring harness;
15 ft red primary wire, 14 ga
15 ft brown primary wire, 14 ga
5 ft yellow primary wire, 14 ga
15 ft wire loom, 3/8" dia
small zip ties
ring terminals x4, 1/4-3/8 in dia hole
30 amp inline fuses and holders x2, 14 ga
butt connectors x20, 14 ga, with shrink tube (optional, but nice)
crimping and stripping tools
wire cutters
3. Wiring up the Headlight
The euro headlight housing uses the same plug as the DOT and if you look carefully, there are 5 positions with 4 pins of two different sizes in there, but one is left blank. You will need to re-arrange the pins to match the euro-headlight. The DOT plug has 4 pins, 3 large and 1 small, the large ones are ground (brown), high beam (white for right side, white/black for left side), low beam (yellow right side, yellow/black left side) and fog (white/yellow), the empty spot is for the city light. You will need to buy 2 (1 per side) small pins with wire attached to insert in this blank position for the city lights (p/n 000 979 117, 1.0 mm dia). The low beam pin which was cut off in the previous operation should now be removed.
The plug needs to be disassembled; pull back the rubber boot and use jewelers screwdrivers to release the purple catches and the plug will come apart allowing you to remove the pins (0036.jpg). Remove the low beam pin and install the small pin for the city light and feed the short piece of wire through the rubber boot. It will look like this when you are done (0035.jpg). Note the yellow wire in the picture is for the city light and don't confuse this with the previously removed low beam wire.
The power for the city light is drawn from the side marker circuit, I used a wire tap and a short piece of wire with butt connectors and shrink tube. If you have euro turn signals, then the marker light is not used and wire this directly to the city light.
Repeat for other side and double check all connections.
4. Mounting Ballasts
I mounted the left side on top of the ABS controller (0034.jpg) by using long zip ties. For the right side, I mounted it on a frame rail just behind where the bumper mounts to. This was a PITA because I had to remove the bumper to get to it. I would not recommend this and try and find a spot near the air filter that you can attach it to, maybe double sided tape.
5. Install Headlights
I won't go into this assuming you know how to do this.
6. Test
Cross your fingers and turn on the headlights. The city light should come on in the first position, the xenons should fire up at the 2nd position. Check you high beams and fog too. You will notice that the lamp out symbol will appear, see below.
7. Lamp Out - Autocheck
The xenons will cause a lamp out because the resistance is different and the Autocheck lamp control module (LCM) monitors the resistance and if it see something different it causes the bulb out symbol. This is what the black wire is for, the problem is that for the life of me I could not figure how to wire it up, even after studying the euro-spec wiring diagrams. So I did what everyone else did - I disabled the LCM. The LCM monitors the rear brake lights and rear tail-lights too, so I did not want to disable it totally. So, in a nutshell, I bypassed the portion of the LCM that sees the voltage/resistance for the low beams.
The LCM is located in the relay box under the hood (0042.jpg) by the driver's firewall. It's the double relay marked 387. Remove this relay and what you need to do is pull up on the mount to get access to the wires below. Removing a couple of other relays around it will help. Locate 4 wires, which are marked on the holder, 56br1 (yellow), 56bl1 (yellow/black), 58br (yellow/brown), 58bl (yellow/green). Cut the wires as close to the connector to give you some slack. Use an insulated butt connector and connect 56br1 to 58br and 56bl1 to 58bl. Its tight to get your tools in here, but doable. You have now bypassed the LCM for the low beam (xenon) and the bulb out will not come on - ever. See wiring diagram (LCM_modified2.jpg).
8. Aiming Headlights
To aim your headlamps, all that is required is a vertical wall and 25 feet of level ground in front (it easier at dusk or night-time). Park the car next to the wall and mark a line on the wall at the horizontal and vertical centers of the low beam (black electrician's tape works well), this is the center-point. Next mark a horizontal line 3 inches below the center mark. Back the car 25 feet straight back and turn on the low beams. Open hood and cover one side with a towel. Using a 6 mm hex wrench, turn the left/right adjusting screw until the bright spot is inline with the vertical center mark. Then turn the up/down adjusting screw until the beam cut-off is inline with the lower horizontal line. Switch towel and repeat for the other side.
It is interesting to note that 3 inches of vertical drop in 25 feet works out to a 1% gradient. Since the high beam and fog are integral of the lamp mounts you are done.
9. Tips
1. It may be worthwhile to clean the lenses of the low beam and the fog light while you have the light out of the car. The low beam is relatively easy, but the fog will require disassembly. There is a procedure for this on s-cars.org.
2. I bought new lenses, as one was cracked and the other was pitted, Europrice can get these for you, $100 ea. Also, if you are getting them, order the rubber gasket that seals the lens, I did not replace mine and do notice some condensation after heavy rain.
3. All references to right side is passenger, left is driver's side.
1995-1997 Audi S6
1. Remove Headlights
The physical removal/install is exactly the same as the DOT lights so I won't go into that.
2. Wiring up the Xenon Low Beams
Disconnect negative battery post under seat before doing any wiring.
The ballast has 4 wires terminating at a round 4 pin plug;
Red - 12V constant
Yellow - switched low beam from headlight switch
Brown - ground
Black - bulb out sensor wire
I went full out and bought the mating plug from Audi so I could do a clean install. This is optional, but I'm pretty **** about this. You can just cut off the plug and wire it up or use the mating plug, its up to you. The plug is the same as the plug for the fuel pump on the 100/200/A6/S6, so if are near a breaker yard, it will be much cheaper. If you decide to buy new OEM plugs, here are the p/n;
813 972 929 x2 - 4 pin connector (0033.jpg)
000 979 135 x4 - connector with wire attached, 1.0 mm dia
000 979 227 x4 - connector with wire attached, 2.5 mm dia
I sourced 12v constant from the jump start battery post using ring terminals (0040.jpg), the post unscrews with a socket. Ground was taken from an unused stud near the fuel filter (0030.jpg), and I made a wiring harness running from this location to each of the front corners. Photo (0041.jpg) shows a general layout of the wiring harness. Make sure you put an inline fuse on the 12v constant, I used 2x30 amp fuses and holders (0040.jpg). The switched wire running to the plug on the back of the headlight (yellow) needs to be cut and connected to the yellow wire for the ballast controller. The other 2 connections are ground (brown) and constant 12 V (red) from the fabricated wiring harness. Again, I used the mating OEM plug and terminated these connections to it. The bulb out wire (black) is complicated and I ended up not using - see below.
For wiring harness;
15 ft red primary wire, 14 ga
15 ft brown primary wire, 14 ga
5 ft yellow primary wire, 14 ga
15 ft wire loom, 3/8" dia
small zip ties
ring terminals x4, 1/4-3/8 in dia hole
30 amp inline fuses and holders x2, 14 ga
butt connectors x20, 14 ga, with shrink tube (optional, but nice)
crimping and stripping tools
wire cutters
3. Wiring up the Headlight
The euro headlight housing uses the same plug as the DOT and if you look carefully, there are 5 positions with 4 pins of two different sizes in there, but one is left blank. You will need to re-arrange the pins to match the euro-headlight. The DOT plug has 4 pins, 3 large and 1 small, the large ones are ground (brown), high beam (white for right side, white/black for left side), low beam (yellow right side, yellow/black left side) and fog (white/yellow), the empty spot is for the city light. You will need to buy 2 (1 per side) small pins with wire attached to insert in this blank position for the city lights (p/n 000 979 117, 1.0 mm dia). The low beam pin which was cut off in the previous operation should now be removed.
The plug needs to be disassembled; pull back the rubber boot and use jewelers screwdrivers to release the purple catches and the plug will come apart allowing you to remove the pins (0036.jpg). Remove the low beam pin and install the small pin for the city light and feed the short piece of wire through the rubber boot. It will look like this when you are done (0035.jpg). Note the yellow wire in the picture is for the city light and don't confuse this with the previously removed low beam wire.
The power for the city light is drawn from the side marker circuit, I used a wire tap and a short piece of wire with butt connectors and shrink tube. If you have euro turn signals, then the marker light is not used and wire this directly to the city light.
Repeat for other side and double check all connections.
4. Mounting Ballasts
I mounted the left side on top of the ABS controller (0034.jpg) by using long zip ties. For the right side, I mounted it on a frame rail just behind where the bumper mounts to. This was a PITA because I had to remove the bumper to get to it. I would not recommend this and try and find a spot near the air filter that you can attach it to, maybe double sided tape.
5. Install Headlights
I won't go into this assuming you know how to do this.
6. Test
Cross your fingers and turn on the headlights. The city light should come on in the first position, the xenons should fire up at the 2nd position. Check you high beams and fog too. You will notice that the lamp out symbol will appear, see below.
7. Lamp Out - Autocheck
The xenons will cause a lamp out because the resistance is different and the Autocheck lamp control module (LCM) monitors the resistance and if it see something different it causes the bulb out symbol. This is what the black wire is for, the problem is that for the life of me I could not figure how to wire it up, even after studying the euro-spec wiring diagrams. So I did what everyone else did - I disabled the LCM. The LCM monitors the rear brake lights and rear tail-lights too, so I did not want to disable it totally. So, in a nutshell, I bypassed the portion of the LCM that sees the voltage/resistance for the low beams.
The LCM is located in the relay box under the hood (0042.jpg) by the driver's firewall. It's the double relay marked 387. Remove this relay and what you need to do is pull up on the mount to get access to the wires below. Removing a couple of other relays around it will help. Locate 4 wires, which are marked on the holder, 56br1 (yellow), 56bl1 (yellow/black), 58br (yellow/brown), 58bl (yellow/green). Cut the wires as close to the connector to give you some slack. Use an insulated butt connector and connect 56br1 to 58br and 56bl1 to 58bl. Its tight to get your tools in here, but doable. You have now bypassed the LCM for the low beam (xenon) and the bulb out will not come on - ever. See wiring diagram (LCM_modified2.jpg).
8. Aiming Headlights
To aim your headlamps, all that is required is a vertical wall and 25 feet of level ground in front (it easier at dusk or night-time). Park the car next to the wall and mark a line on the wall at the horizontal and vertical centers of the low beam (black electrician's tape works well), this is the center-point. Next mark a horizontal line 3 inches below the center mark. Back the car 25 feet straight back and turn on the low beams. Open hood and cover one side with a towel. Using a 6 mm hex wrench, turn the left/right adjusting screw until the bright spot is inline with the vertical center mark. Then turn the up/down adjusting screw until the beam cut-off is inline with the lower horizontal line. Switch towel and repeat for the other side.
It is interesting to note that 3 inches of vertical drop in 25 feet works out to a 1% gradient. Since the high beam and fog are integral of the lamp mounts you are done.
9. Tips
1. It may be worthwhile to clean the lenses of the low beam and the fog light while you have the light out of the car. The low beam is relatively easy, but the fog will require disassembly. There is a procedure for this on s-cars.org.
2. I bought new lenses, as one was cracked and the other was pitted, Europrice can get these for you, $100 ea. Also, if you are getting them, order the rubber gasket that seals the lens, I did not replace mine and do notice some condensation after heavy rain.
3. All references to right side is passenger, left is driver's side.