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For anyone who has tested for vacuum leaks at the ECU, how did you stop the air from going out of...

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Old 10-05-2008, 05:19 PM
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Default For anyone who has tested for vacuum leaks at the ECU, how did you stop the air from going out of...

the valves in the engine? Im thinking of just undoing all the hoses at the engine and plugging them up but i am wondering about the FPR, i dont want to hurt it or have it let out air, should i take this hose off too.

I have found some loose hose clamps (moisture trap ect) and tightening hasnt changed anything so i feel i still have a leak somewhere, i have poor idle on cold start for 2-3 seconds and hesitation when going from vacuum to boost.

but even if a gauge shows a vac leak, i still need to locate it. Also, can you have a vacuum leak but still make good boost? and when i pull the dip stick the idle suffers so does that rule out a leak all together?

I am going to see if i can use another MAF if i rule out a vac leak, i know im running rich and poor idle so i have to fix this before winter.
Old 10-05-2008, 06:56 PM
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Default I test one hose at a time. pull hose at engine side. test press/vac. next hose.

didn't find any major leaks except loose hose clamps for sure and WGFV hoses prolly should be replaced. didn't do the FPR vac hoses yet although I should have. just pulling everything, reseating and retightening seems to have eliminated intermittently weak boost for me. I also tested the WGFV and a few 12VDC jolts might have helped loosen it up. I have a replacement on the way though since I suspect it is still suspect.
Old 10-05-2008, 07:26 PM
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Default OK, so i can just pull the hose at the moisture trap while engine is idling and test it then.

because i found this post by Mr. Dave F. and if there is just one hose i need to take off the IM and plug that would be great, but it seems like there are 3 or 4 hoses going into different places i would have to plug, and two of them are really low under the FPR at the back of the head and its almost impossible for my to get to them. Im hoping i can use some soapy water and find a leak, I know that if i take it in to a shop, they are going to spend time checking stuff i have already done and charge me a crap load to diagnose it.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4s6/msgs/238825.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/s4s6/msgs/238825.phtml</a</li></ul>
Old 10-05-2008, 11:18 PM
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Default i would test 'static' engine off first. those 2 connects are not so bad - no prob to pull 'em.

one should go to the trap and the other to the FPR. you need to test both tubes going in and out of the trap - because it's a diaphram it will disguise a leaky tube on the other side. they actually go back on much easier than they come off - especially on an old motor that has never had them taken apart. another key connection is at the front of the IM going to the bypass valve at the turbo.

do you have any kind of bike pump or vac pump or anything with a gauge to show if a tube will hold vac or pressure?

another old mechanics trick is to use a propane plumbers torch. NOT LIT of course. you crack the valve so a little gas is coming out and then run it around the vacuum connections with everything plugged in - if there's a vac leak it will suck in some propane and the rpms will go up.
Old 10-06-2008, 09:04 AM
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Default Thank you very much for the help, i have a pump with a gauge. Those 2 hoses have clamps that wont..

loosen or tighten anymore so im going to have to suck it up and take them off and get new clamps. I hope i find a leak and it turns out to be my issue.

As far as the hose on the front that goes to the BPV, ill just take it off the IM and test it connected to the BPV yes?

Anyway i hope i find a leak and fix my issues, thanks again for all the info.
Old 10-06-2008, 02:15 PM
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Default warm car up, put a little penetrating oil (PB etc.) on, bet you can get those clamps off.

putting all new hose clamps on while you're do the testing is a fine fine idea anyway. I shoulda myself but dint.

your car sounds like mine - aka nobody ever took the hoses apart - and if so, you'll find the hose clamps on the WGFV are more of a beyotch than the IM ones.

have you checked all the WGFV connections by the way? take the whole airbox out for easier access and check the 3 hoses as well as the electrical connection. some contact cleaner on the connector is never a bad idea either. if you've got intermittent boost that is right up with ECU vac connection as a likely candidate.
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