c4S6

So, finally got the correct left Boxter caliper and got around to installing my new brakes this weekend.

<i>I encountered two problems:</i>
<b>1)</b> The StopTech brake lines I ordered are about 1 inch too short.
<b>2)</b> There are these 4 metal "pins" that go from the outside of the caliper to the inside of the caliper and the ones on the left caliper stick in too far and prevent the caliper from clearing the rotor.

The caliper fit perfectly on the passenger side. It appears that these metal "pins" can be moved in and out, but they don't seem to want to budge easily.

Can anyone explain what exactly these pins are supposed to do (what purpose do they serve)? And, can they be banged back out toward the outside of the caliper? The ones on the left caliper appear to be more inset.

See pics below of the caliper to see what I'm talking about.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/114659/img_0609.jpg">

And... this one is on and works great.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/114659/img_0613.jpg">


Any help GREATLY appreciated.

UrS4boy

with the Boxster S calipers (red) (Bira System 3), there is a need to file (grind) about 1 mm of the pins. As for your case, the thing is the way the rotors center in the caliper is more about how far the bearing got pressed into the hub than about how the caliper fits. I think the pins are used to stabilize the pads (keep them in place to some degree). I doubt that there is much wrong in filing (grinding) the pins enought to clear the rotor.

tpierce

are you sure you have the right caliper on the right side?

Hoog23

You can try to hammer them back in to gain maybe an 1/8 of clearance. You are better off hitting the end of the pin with a cutoff tool.

4x5x5

Can't tell if they are Boxster or "S", but probably the same. I have heard people grinding them and a mm or 2 shouldn't hurt at all as the pads are prolly 4mm or so thick before the backing so they won't be falling out. I've heard about the BMFH approach as well. If you flip the calipers over you'll see the pins are held in place by a tiny roll pins. In this case the rollpin sits in a precut groove of the pad pin so I don't know how the hammerers did it but if you remove the roll pin and can find a tinier one, I'm guessing that would be enough to move the pin out and make sure it stays going forward.
After trial fitting mine, a trim of the caliper carrier centered the caliper over the rotor. you might want to double check and make sure the difference is in those pins and not somewhere else like a washer or a layer of crud not wher it should be.

c4S6

It almost makes me think this is a rear or something, but the PN checks out... or, does it...

Hard to tell, but I might have a 996 caliper?

PN: <b>996 352 041</b>

But, why would a rotor on a 996 (heavier car) be thinner than on a Boxter??? I'm really confused, but the PN on my right caliper is clearly marked on the outside of the caliper whereas this one was hidden underneath and the bleed valve appears to be on the wrong end.

Hmmm.... Any ideas on what this caliper is???

Rears for a Boxter are 986 352 423 01 and 424 01, so it isn't that.

UrS4boy

the UrS, they are rotated to the front of the wheel. As a result, if these were never on an UrS, you need to remove the cross-over tube and the TWO bleeder valves and move the cross-over tube to where the bleeders were and vice versa.

UrS4boy

Boxster S Brembo PNs=FRONT: 996.351.425 / 996.351.426;REAR: 996.352.421 / 996.352.422

c4S6

Which explains a lot. I have plane jane Boxter calipers...

I apparently need a <b>986 351 421</b>
Boxter Left Front