CLUTCH PEDAL
03-10-2012, 02:14 PM
#3
Clutch pedal removal procedure (draft)
Our UrS4/S6s have a cast aluminum clutch pedal. With age and a worn clutch (which increases the force on the clutch pedal needed to disengage/engage the clutch), the pedal eventually breaks due to fatigue cracking, as shown here:
At that point, you will need to remove the pedal and try to fix it (welding aluminum can be tricky) or replace it. If they are available the clutch pedal PN is 4A1721315 available (maybe) from a dealer or GVAP.
Here is the whole cluster out of the car (you shouldn't need to do that) with the clutch pedal closest to you.
The R&R procedure for the clutch pedal (Item 2 in the diagram below) should be something like this:
1. Move drivers seat as far back as it will go.
2. Remove under steering column padding/shelves (knee bolster in NAmerica, storage cubby in the ROW)
3. Twist yourself into position (upside down, etc. as required)
4. Disconnect pedal from clutch master cylinder by pulling clip 11 off pin 15 and sliding pin 15 out of the clutch pedal.
5. Tie-wrap the overcentre spring (Item 10)so it remains contracted(important for the reinstall) and then disconnect the spring from the cluster bracket by removing the clip 11 at the end of item 10, etc.
6. Remove clip 9 from the end clutch pedal cluster post and slide the Item 2 clutch pedal off the post.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal (Good luck)
At that point, you will need to remove the pedal and try to fix it (welding aluminum can be tricky) or replace it. If they are available the clutch pedal PN is 4A1721315 available (maybe) from a dealer or GVAP.
Here is the whole cluster out of the car (you shouldn't need to do that) with the clutch pedal closest to you.
The R&R procedure for the clutch pedal (Item 2 in the diagram below) should be something like this:
1. Move drivers seat as far back as it will go.
2. Remove under steering column padding/shelves (knee bolster in NAmerica, storage cubby in the ROW)
3. Twist yourself into position (upside down, etc. as required)
4. Disconnect pedal from clutch master cylinder by pulling clip 11 off pin 15 and sliding pin 15 out of the clutch pedal.
5. Tie-wrap the overcentre spring (Item 10)so it remains contracted(important for the reinstall) and then disconnect the spring from the cluster bracket by removing the clip 11 at the end of item 10, etc.
6. Remove clip 9 from the end clutch pedal cluster post and slide the Item 2 clutch pedal off the post.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal (Good luck)
Last edited by UrS4boy; 03-11-2012 at 07:29 AM.
03-24-2012, 02:29 PM
#4
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I Tie-wrapped the overcentre spring (Item 10)so it remained contracted(important for the reinstall) and then disconnected the spring from the cluster bracket by removing the clip 11 at the end of item 10, etc. I wen to reinstall the overcentre spring and one of the **** that goes to the clutch pedal side broke. I have called audi in Seattle and they are not sure if the overcentre sping comes with the nylon ends. I have sent email to the GVAP hoping to get an answer. One thing I noticed is that the tie wrap takes up space and prevents the **** on the clutch pedal side from actually setting into the pedal.
03-24-2012, 06:27 PM
#5
Sorry to hear that Bill. I guess after 20 years, plastic gets brittle. The Item 10 PN, 4A0721403D, covers a lot of years of Audis back to the 5000s, 200s, and 100s with manual transmissions. I checked GVAP and they say it has been superceded to 4A0721403E and the price is about $35 plus $9 something for Fedex ground. So not too bad. I have also put a call out to the Seattle UrS crew in case somebody has a good used one.
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