Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ), Procedures and Resources
02-13-2009, 01:35 PM
#122
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Ext Temp Display Bulb Replacement
Thank you Charlie Smith for this one!<ul><li><a href="http://www.elektro.com/~audi/lamps/tempdisplay.html">http://www.elektro.com/~audi/lamps/tempdisplay.html</a</li></ul>
03-02-2009, 11:11 AM
#123
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VEMS the standalone option
For just a little more money than a chipset + VMAP option you can go w/ a plug n play standalone ecu like the VEMS unit.
I got my VEMS set up from EFI Express and had outstanding results with it.
Safer tune, ability to log runs and outstanding customer support.
Just my .2 cents.<ul><li><a href="http://www.efiexpress.com">http://www.efiexpress.com</a</li></ul>
I got my VEMS set up from EFI Express and had outstanding results with it.
Safer tune, ability to log runs and outstanding customer support.
Just my .2 cents.<ul><li><a href="http://www.efiexpress.com">http://www.efiexpress.com</a</li></ul>
03-07-2009, 07:53 PM
#124
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Cooling system hose and sensor part numbers with heater core and flap motor info.
After losing a considerable amount of coolant and not wanting to chase leaks hose after hose, I redid all of the hoses, heater core, sensors and plastic stuff in my cooling system. This is a compiled list of numbers and some info I didn't find anywhere else here, yet.
Thanks to Kevin Day (kday) for his thread from a few years ago with part #'s (which jump started my project), and others threads with all of the info that made my project a success!
MOST IMPORTANT THING HERE: SEARCH! If you haven't already. There is a huge amount of how to/tips and tricks info on this site about this stuff. A little SFTA and you will have a lot less headaches!
Things I have omitted from here:
-The block to turbo hose connection at the freeze plug, the o-rings on the water manifold and the metal pipes, as they are not common leak points.
-I have omitted the radiator and head gasket part numbers, but they are widely available (FAP99 and AutohausAZ are good sources).
-I also have omitted the water pump as it should have been replaced with the timing belt.
HOSES AVAILABLE FROM MOST AFTER MARKET SUPPLIERS:
4a0 121 101b - radiator to expansion tank and water manifold
4a0 121 109a - expansion tank to water pipe
4a0 121 109b - water pipe (from x-tank) to radiator
4a0 121 055c - thermostat housing to water pipe
4a0 121 055d - water pipe (from t-stat housing) to radiator
N 020 262 1 - banjo fitting on water manifold to turbo coolant line. - I just bought an 8" piece 5/16" bulk line from my FLAPS
034 121 063 - block (behind t-stat) to water pipe (heater/after-run pump line)
4a0 121 082 - after-run pump to water manifold
HOSES FROM DEALERS ONLY:
4a0 121 081 - water pipe (heater/after-run pump) to after-run pump
4a0 819 373c - heater pipe to heater control valve
4a1 819 373f - bleeder screw assembly (hose)
4a0 819 371c - heater core to 'T' fitting (HVAC sensor port)
4a0 819 371b - 'T' fitting to heater flange (on back of block)
HARDWARE:
4a0 819 809 - heater valve
034 121 143e - coolant flange (plastic)
N 900 351 03 - coolant flange o-ring
035 121 113b - thermostat (87'C)
035 121 119 - o-ring t-stat housing
074 121 121b - t-stat housing
443 819 031c - heater core
034 965 561c - after-run pump
4a0 121 403 - expansion tank
025 121 142 - clip for HVAC sensor in 'T' fitting
0 132 801 003 - flap motors in heater box (see notes below about this)
4a0 959 101a - blower motor
431 819 225 - heater box gasket (seal between box and bulkhead)
SENSORS/THERMOSWITCHES:
191 959 481c - 2 stage fan switch in bottom of radiator (stock temperature ranges)
054 919 369b - after-run pump switch
034 919 369c - MFTS (Multi-Function ThermoSwitch)
034 919 369m - coolant temperature sensor (ECU)
025 906 041a - HVAC sensor (in 'T' fitting)
NOTES:
Some things that might be of assistance:
-The first place to look for coolant leaks that I have found are the after-run pump, expansion tank, t-stat housing/seal, heater flange, heater valve, turbo coolant line and HVAC sensor 'T' fitting.
-I had to cut off a lot of my old hoses as they were original.
-The block to water pipe hose behind the thermostat is easier to work with by removing the water pipe. This pipe is bolted on to the transmission bell housing with a 16mm head bolt.
-The replacement heater core I got has slightly smaller diameter intlet/outlet ports. This is fine as the hose clamps can bite down enough to make a good seal.
-I replaced everything in the heater box while it was out 'cause I didn't want to take it back out again! It is not hard, but is a bit time consuming. It can be removed without removing the center console. Follow the Bentley procedure, but instead of removing the console, do this:
1)remove glove box and both footwell ducts.
2)remove 90' defroster air duct connector tubes (they snap out)
3)pull heater box out just enough to get at the red and blue flap motor plugs and unclip plugs. I used a small pick with a 90' bend at the tip as it was hard to get my hand at the right angle to unclip them. Some say that removing the radio makes it easier to get at the plugs but there is a metal bracket in the way on my car
4)heater box can now be removed.
-I used bulk closed-cell foam gasket material from Home Depot for the footwell ducts, panel duct and heater core seals.
-When rebuilding the heater box, I opted to use one type of flap motor. Audi lists a different part number for each of the three flap motors (hot-red, cold-blue and fresh air-black). They are all the same motor with different color/style plugs. Each motor has a different price ranging from $60-$200. I saved about $170 by ordering 3 of the cheapest one (the fresh air motor) and clipping the old plugs off of the old motors (with enough wire left for splicing!) and soldering them on the new motors.
-I used silicone RTV sealant to seal the heater core opening. It stinks. After 3 weeks, it has 'gassed out' a lot, but I can still smell it. Probably there is something better out there.
-I used genuineaudiparts.com for my dealer only parts source. They are the least expensive I have found.
I hope this is useful.
Thanks to Kevin Day (kday) for his thread from a few years ago with part #'s (which jump started my project), and others threads with all of the info that made my project a success!
MOST IMPORTANT THING HERE: SEARCH! If you haven't already. There is a huge amount of how to/tips and tricks info on this site about this stuff. A little SFTA and you will have a lot less headaches!
Things I have omitted from here:
-The block to turbo hose connection at the freeze plug, the o-rings on the water manifold and the metal pipes, as they are not common leak points.
-I have omitted the radiator and head gasket part numbers, but they are widely available (FAP99 and AutohausAZ are good sources).
-I also have omitted the water pump as it should have been replaced with the timing belt.
HOSES AVAILABLE FROM MOST AFTER MARKET SUPPLIERS:
4a0 121 101b - radiator to expansion tank and water manifold
4a0 121 109a - expansion tank to water pipe
4a0 121 109b - water pipe (from x-tank) to radiator
4a0 121 055c - thermostat housing to water pipe
4a0 121 055d - water pipe (from t-stat housing) to radiator
N 020 262 1 - banjo fitting on water manifold to turbo coolant line. - I just bought an 8" piece 5/16" bulk line from my FLAPS
034 121 063 - block (behind t-stat) to water pipe (heater/after-run pump line)
4a0 121 082 - after-run pump to water manifold
HOSES FROM DEALERS ONLY:
4a0 121 081 - water pipe (heater/after-run pump) to after-run pump
4a0 819 373c - heater pipe to heater control valve
4a1 819 373f - bleeder screw assembly (hose)
4a0 819 371c - heater core to 'T' fitting (HVAC sensor port)
4a0 819 371b - 'T' fitting to heater flange (on back of block)
HARDWARE:
4a0 819 809 - heater valve
034 121 143e - coolant flange (plastic)
N 900 351 03 - coolant flange o-ring
035 121 113b - thermostat (87'C)
035 121 119 - o-ring t-stat housing
074 121 121b - t-stat housing
443 819 031c - heater core
034 965 561c - after-run pump
4a0 121 403 - expansion tank
025 121 142 - clip for HVAC sensor in 'T' fitting
0 132 801 003 - flap motors in heater box (see notes below about this)
4a0 959 101a - blower motor
431 819 225 - heater box gasket (seal between box and bulkhead)
SENSORS/THERMOSWITCHES:
191 959 481c - 2 stage fan switch in bottom of radiator (stock temperature ranges)
054 919 369b - after-run pump switch
034 919 369c - MFTS (Multi-Function ThermoSwitch)
034 919 369m - coolant temperature sensor (ECU)
025 906 041a - HVAC sensor (in 'T' fitting)
NOTES:
Some things that might be of assistance:
-The first place to look for coolant leaks that I have found are the after-run pump, expansion tank, t-stat housing/seal, heater flange, heater valve, turbo coolant line and HVAC sensor 'T' fitting.
-I had to cut off a lot of my old hoses as they were original.
-The block to water pipe hose behind the thermostat is easier to work with by removing the water pipe. This pipe is bolted on to the transmission bell housing with a 16mm head bolt.
-The replacement heater core I got has slightly smaller diameter intlet/outlet ports. This is fine as the hose clamps can bite down enough to make a good seal.
-I replaced everything in the heater box while it was out 'cause I didn't want to take it back out again! It is not hard, but is a bit time consuming. It can be removed without removing the center console. Follow the Bentley procedure, but instead of removing the console, do this:
1)remove glove box and both footwell ducts.
2)remove 90' defroster air duct connector tubes (they snap out)
3)pull heater box out just enough to get at the red and blue flap motor plugs and unclip plugs. I used a small pick with a 90' bend at the tip as it was hard to get my hand at the right angle to unclip them. Some say that removing the radio makes it easier to get at the plugs but there is a metal bracket in the way on my car
4)heater box can now be removed.
-I used bulk closed-cell foam gasket material from Home Depot for the footwell ducts, panel duct and heater core seals.
-When rebuilding the heater box, I opted to use one type of flap motor. Audi lists a different part number for each of the three flap motors (hot-red, cold-blue and fresh air-black). They are all the same motor with different color/style plugs. Each motor has a different price ranging from $60-$200. I saved about $170 by ordering 3 of the cheapest one (the fresh air motor) and clipping the old plugs off of the old motors (with enough wire left for splicing!) and soldering them on the new motors.
-I used silicone RTV sealant to seal the heater core opening. It stinks. After 3 weeks, it has 'gassed out' a lot, but I can still smell it. Probably there is something better out there.
-I used genuineaudiparts.com for my dealer only parts source. They are the least expensive I have found.
I hope this is useful.
03-08-2009, 10:01 AM
#125
Former Vendor
Join Date: May 2003
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034Motorsport silicone replacement coolant hose set
<center><img src="http://www.034motorsport.com/oscthumbwm/w/662/h/679/q/95/f/jpg/fltr/wmi|phpThumb/watermarks/034watermark|C|20|0/hash/0a56608f6f7930121ee034e53c1571b8/src/images/SilHoseSetC4S4.jpg"></center><p><ul><li><a href="http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info.php?products_id=18016">10 Peice silicone hose set for UrS4/S6</a></li></ul>
04-05-2009, 08:31 PM
#126
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07-27-2009, 10:32 AM
#127
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The 110 Sport Diverter Valve
Originally Posted by Hoppen
Early production vehicles had a Bosch bypass valve with the number ending in 108 or Audi 710A which due to problems would eventually be superceded by a Bosch 114 or Audi 710N. This valve was far better in performance but still not completely reliable especially under modified conditions.
MTM did extensive research on various bypass valves for their 400 -500HP kits and came up with the Bosch Sport Valve 110 being the best in performance and durability, even over more expensive aftermarket valves. At JHM we also tested various options and concur with MTM’s findings. With the Bosch Sport Valve the boost recovery and throttle response are enhanced significantly and since it is dimensionally the same as the original the installation is simple.
As stated in Audi’s technical bulletin dated Dec. 8, 2000 the bypass valves should be replaced should the following occur: “Groaning or howling noise from engine compartment when accelerating during partial load between 2500-3000 RPM,” or “ Rattling noise when decelerating between 2000-3000 RPM,” which “may be caused by the internal diaphragm of the charge pressure bypass valve producing pulsating noises.”
MTM did extensive research on various bypass valves for their 400 -500HP kits and came up with the Bosch Sport Valve 110 being the best in performance and durability, even over more expensive aftermarket valves. At JHM we also tested various options and concur with MTM’s findings. With the Bosch Sport Valve the boost recovery and throttle response are enhanced significantly and since it is dimensionally the same as the original the installation is simple.
As stated in Audi’s technical bulletin dated Dec. 8, 2000 the bypass valves should be replaced should the following occur: “Groaning or howling noise from engine compartment when accelerating during partial load between 2500-3000 RPM,” or “ Rattling noise when decelerating between 2000-3000 RPM,” which “may be caused by the internal diaphragm of the charge pressure bypass valve producing pulsating noises.”
I found my 110 Sport Valve by doing a part search on a 2000-2005 Saab 9-5 Aero.
The 110 Valve comes stock in the Saab 9-5 Aero (or any Saab with the B235R motor: Viggens/Aeros)
There is no Audi part number for this valve.
I purchased mine for $58+tax
Originally Posted by Any WorldPac Dealer
Charge Air Bypass Valve
0 280 142 110
The "Heavy Duty" version of this valve has a heavier diaphragm that helps prevent the "hooting" sound when the engine decelerates because of a weak or leaking diaphragm and the "Standard" version does not have the heavier diaphragm.
0 280 142 110
The "Heavy Duty" version of this valve has a heavier diaphragm that helps prevent the "hooting" sound when the engine decelerates because of a weak or leaking diaphragm and the "Standard" version does not have the heavier diaphragm.
Last edited by Chapel; 07-27-2009 at 10:35 AM.
03-29-2011, 02:26 PM
#129
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Well it had to happen. Somebody finally posted *into* the FAQ after 2 years and 11 days after the switch from Kawf to vBulletin. vBulletin is a nightmare for a FAQ because it bumps these older FAQ posts to the front instead of letting them stay in the background where they should stay. Had to happen.
The procedure you are looking for was reposted on another popular Audi website who's name can not be mentioned here.
Good luck.
The procedure you are looking for was reposted on another popular Audi website who's name can not be mentioned here.
Good luck.
