Gauge Pod options
07-05-2009, 09:32 AM
#11
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07-05-2009, 10:47 AM
#12
Okay. That is a new one on me (I have a Phantom edge lit). Too bad the day time numerals on the Phantom II aren't "black" (dark red-black) instead of the white.
Close but no cigar in my opinion.
Close but no cigar in my opinion.
07-05-2009, 05:34 PM
#13
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07-06-2009, 04:08 PM
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Yeah, I have the Phantom II. I contacted the company to see if I could crack this thing to color the LEDs red. They claim no. I like the back lit feature, and the font is close enough to the Audi font. I haven't given up, just put the project on the back burner. It is not purple like it looks, that is just the extra exposure time.
07-06-2009, 05:46 PM
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Yeah, I have the Phantom II. I contacted the company to see if I could crack this thing to color the LEDs red. They claim no. I like the back lit feature, and the font is close enough to the Audi font. I haven't given up, just put the project on the back burner. It is not purple like it looks, that is just the extra exposure time.
boo
07-06-2009, 08:55 PM
#16
The gauges CAN be opened (but it will void any warranty). Method 1 =
gently "stretch" the metal bezel that holds the glass to the gauge body. Start at one point, using something to pry the metal a bit, working your way round and round, prying more and more until the metal bezel comes off. Then when you remove the nut at the threaded fitting, the gauge will come out of the case.
Method 2= cut the case a few mm away from the bezel, easy if plastic (X-Acto plastic model saw) a bit more difficult with metal (fine hacksaw). When you are done, glue the plastic with styrene model glue (no extra sniffing allowed); metal = solder or solder to tack in place and then epoxy around the circumference of the cut (watch the thickness)
Method 2= cut the case a few mm away from the bezel, easy if plastic (X-Acto plastic model saw) a bit more difficult with metal (fine hacksaw). When you are done, glue the plastic with styrene model glue (no extra sniffing allowed); metal = solder or solder to tack in place and then epoxy around the circumference of the cut (watch the thickness)
07-07-2009, 08:31 AM
#17
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gently "stretch" the metal bezel that holds the glass to the gauge body. Start at one point, using something to pry the metal a bit, working your way round and round, prying more and more until the metal bezel comes off. Then when you remove the nut at the threaded fitting, the gauge will come out of the case.
Method 2= cut the case a few mm away from the bezel, easy if plastic (X-Acto plastic model saw) a bit more difficult with metal (fine hacksaw). When you are done, glue the plastic with styrene model glue (no extra sniffing allowed); metal = solder or solder to tack in place and then epoxy around the circumference of the cut (watch the thickness)
Method 2= cut the case a few mm away from the bezel, easy if plastic (X-Acto plastic model saw) a bit more difficult with metal (fine hacksaw). When you are done, glue the plastic with styrene model glue (no extra sniffing allowed); metal = solder or solder to tack in place and then epoxy around the circumference of the cut (watch the thickness)
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